Stage 105: From the Chinese tunnel back to Taran-Bazar

The next morning we were woken up early by Jaffar as the Chinese bosses were supposed to leave the construction site in the morning. It was about 5 kilometers to the entrance of the tunnel and the workers' camp, which was challenging. When we arrived at the camp, we were looked at in disbelief, but most of them didn't feel like talking to us. A translator on site offered to help us with orientation, but he didn't dare to put in a good word for us with the bosses. Not a good sign! The hierarchy in the camp was interesting. Chinese, Kyrgyz, Uzbeks, and Pakistanis lived there. Each nation had its own ranking, and translators were there for communication between the camps. We also heard different versions on the spot. Sometimes there was unhealthy water about hip deep in the tunnel, sometimes it was concrete work, sometimes the tunnel wasn't even completed yet. After discussing with everyone in the camp who spoke English or Russian, the picture slowly became clearer. The main tunnel was still about 800 meters away from breakthrough, but the supply tunnel already connected both sides and was already being used by locals and construction workers. There were indeed concrete work going on there that day, but it would be completed by the next day. We continued to explain that we were also willing to pay money and be escorted on a truck. After everyone answered evasively, an honest translator approached us and took away any hope of continuing. He explained that today there was indeed no chance because of the work in the tunnel, but even after that the Chinese bosses would not let us pass because they didn't want to take responsibility for us. Long story short: we had to turn around. We were given a sausage and some sweets as gifts and left the crazy construction site. At least the return trip to Taran-Bazar was downhill and relaxed. Aman suggested taking the 'Path of the Sheep,' claiming to see a trail through the mountains. But the mountains were so steep that we had even seen sheep the day before that were too afraid to descend. I could convince him that his idea was already life-threatening without luggage and bicycles, and that he overestimated himself. After a strenuous discussion ('you just have to believe!' 'Yes, I believe you would die!') we started the return journey. Even without luggage, we wouldn't have had a chance without climbing equipment.

Back in Taran-Bazar, we inquired about the old road to Kazarman in a market. Initially, we were assured once again that the road was open 100%. But after all the conversations with completely convinced locals about the Chinese road, we were suspicious and asked several times. Eventually, a phone call revealed that the supposedly 100% certain local admitted that the old road was still closed due to snow. I decided not to ask locals anymore. It seems to be embarrassing to not know something or not be able to help. So it's better to give an answer full of conviction than to lose face. That's something I don't understand! During the conversation, other residents noticed us and invited us for tea. But it escalated a bit and it wasn't just tea, but of course also a lot of food and a place to stay overnight. After three days without a shower, I didn't feel completely comfortable with it, but I let myself be persuaded. After all, it was partly my fault that we hadn't tried to cross the mountains off the beaten path. In the evening, we took a walk with the family. Everyone was super nice and hospitable! At that point, though, I wouldn't have minded a shower and some privacy.