Solina Lake

The train that is supposed to take us from Krakow to the east is about a quarter of an hour late, so we board the IC train around 3:20 am on the morning of June 13, 2018, and settle in a cabin for the next three and a half hours. Despite only having 5 minutes to change trains in Jasło, everything goes smoothly and we reach Zagórz shortly before nine. First, I organize something for breakfast, which we can enjoy in the morning sun near the train station. Then we go on a detour to the fishing store to get some bait and a fishing permit for Lake Solina. The owner was able to help me with maggots and a few worms, and he refers me to Lesko for the fishing permit and makes a phone call for me. The person on the other end of the line offers me a weekly pass for 50€ and three days for 'let's make it 35€'. That doesn't seem very reliable to me (and also quite expensive) so I decide to inquire directly at the fishing spot. So we make our way to Polańczyk. We take the bus via Lesko, where we can transfer without waiting, to the small holiday resort directly on the western shore of the lake. In the southern part of the settlement, my map indicates a campsite right on the shore of the lake, so we immediately head there. When we arrive on site, the situation doesn't look very promising, the whole property is now privately owned and camping for visitors has not been possible for a while. After a short consideration, I decide to look for a spot further south, right on the shore of the lake. About 1.5 km outside the village, I set up our camp. I do some laundry, go for a swim, and then go to bed around quarter to three. The last two nights in various train stations and trains were less restful than I would have liked. I wake up again shortly before five, it has started raining outside. I decide to postpone the planned walk around the town and the much-desired coffee, have a snack for dinner, and go back to sleep. Rango also doesn't seem like he expects much more from the day.

Thursday greets me with continued rainy weather. Our supplies are completely depleted, so I can't delay the trip to Polańczyk any longer. Rango shows little interest in leaving the dry tent in this weather, but he has to come with me anyway. First, we take a detour to the tourist information center, as I still need a fishing permit. They refer me to the fishing store in the neighboring village (Myczków). There I can get a 3-day fishing permit for 50zł. Shortly after eleven, we are back in Polańczyk and replenish our food supplies for the next few days at the local Delikatesy Centrum. Rango gets to enjoy a kilo of chicken hearts right then and there, and I treat myself to a coffee and some pastries at the next restaurant. Since it offers good Wi-Fi in addition to hot drinks, we stay there for a while. After the rain subsides, we start making our way back. We arrive back at the tent around two and I decide to improve our camping spot. First, I cover the clothesline so that it can still be used in rainy weather. Then I build a small platform for the tent. The last night was not very comfortable because the ground was sloping towards the lake. Finally, I set up a fishing spot. After about three and a half hours, I am somewhat satisfied with the overall situation. Since the weather is slowly getting worse again, I retreat to the tent and end the day with cookies and a peppermint tea (I can harvest fresh mint right next to the tent).

From Friday to Sunday, the weather improves again and I spend most of the time fishing and taking two trips to Polańczyk. The fishing pressure directly in front of the town bay is enormous on Saturday. There are about 10 to 15 anglers on 300 m of shoreline on both sides of the bay. Luckily, it is a bit calmer around my camping spot. I have several bites while sitting, but all the fish manage to get tangled in the weeds. So the spot is not ideal. When spinning, I can frequently hear and see the predators jumping out of the water during their hunt, but none of them bite. So for now, Rango is spared from being an unpopular fish meal.

On Monday (June 18, 2018) it is time to move on. Just like it welcomed us, Solina Lake says goodbye with rainy weather. So I have to give up on cooking my breakfast omelette over an open flame (I managed to save some dry firewood the night before) and retreat to the tent. The campsite is dismantled around half past ten and we make our way to Polańczyk. Today I want to get as close as possible to Lviv in western Ukraine. The big guy gets a bite in front of the supermarket (a good kilo of turkey necks) before we head to Solina. I had planned to take the bus to Lesko, but it only leaves 3 hours later, so we walk a little more. The weather is still changeable with regular showers. After almost 10 km, we reach the dam completed in 1968. Solina also caters to tourism and is quite busy even in this weather. We have to wait a bit for the bus to Lesko, and finally, at half past three, we can board the minibus. In Lesko, there are several options for onward travel. The only nearby border crossing to Ukraine, at Krościenko, can be reached via Ustrzyki Dolne. The bus arrives in this direction at the station in Lesko at around five. As luck would have it, the bus driver speaks a little German and informs me that there is no local transport for the 20 km from Ustrzyki to the border and we would have to walk along the main road. Due to the weather conditions, I decide to spare us that and take the next bus north. After a short detour in Lesko - a very nice little town - we take the bus to Sanok shortly after six. From here, I want to continue to Rzeszów. Checking the train schedule suggests a departure at half past seven. Unfortunately, the train only goes to Jasło today, and the conductor assures me that there is no onward journey from there on the same evening. They suggest taking a bus. I hesitate for a moment, but then let the train depart without me. The bus is supposed to leave Sanok station at nine. Shortly before quarter to three, the bus arrives, after a short conversation with the driver, I give up on the attempt. Dogs not allowed. I immediately have a very bad feeling about it!!! But at a nearby bus stop, a bus called MARCEL is recommended to me. A little later, a green minibus like that comes towards Rzeszów, but the driver also refuses to take Rango. Two more attempts end similarly disastrously. Welcome to Eastern Europe. So my journey to Lviv ends much earlier than expected in the evening, and I find a quiet spot at the train station. The next possibility is the train to Jasło at 9:48 am on Tuesday morning. Shortly after 11 pm, a few teenagers join me to smoke in peace... A short time later, the security also shows up, I am tolerated and the young people leave at some point. Finally, peace and quiet!