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# Tag 53 Duoro Valley - the source of Port wine

已發表: 22.04.2022

The decision about the further travel route deviates a bit from the original plan. Instead of staying on the coast and continuing the coastal route through Galicia in Spain, we will drive from Porto to the Duoro Valley and explore this landscape. Many describe the drive along the river as an absolute highlight of a trip to Portugal. We are excited.

The weather forecast is unfortunately far from ideal, so it is not difficult to leave the coast. Beach weather is not to be expected. Instead, it's red wine and port wine weather.

Before we set off, I dare to take another shower at the campsite. Who knows when we will have the opportunity to do so again. And now I'm taking a picture of the shower cabin:

Shower cabin ... already older
Shower cabin ... already older

But the water is nice and hot ...

After a hearty breakfast and some considerations about where we actually want to go, we set off around 11:30 a.m. and drive to the north side of the Duoro on the N 108 - which mostly runs along the river, but sometimes not.

The valley and the slopes, still without vineyards
The valley and the slopes, still without vineyards

In any case, the passenger can enjoy the landscape and repeatedly lift the camera in delight, while the driver sweats and has to carefully consider every curve and oncoming traffic on the narrow road.

After several kilometers through the wooded slopes, we wonder where the vineyards actually are that can be seen everywhere on the internet. The road keeps going up and down, through enchanted villages and deserted areas. But we can't spot any wineries.

The solution becomes apparent at the destination 100 kilometers away - Peso da Regua, the gateway to the wine region. It is here that the Duoro begins with its vine-covered slopes, and there is a winery behind every curve. This is very reminiscent of the Moselle, which has a similar landscape.

A "real" port wine always comes from Portugal.

The grapes come from three areas:

  • The Baixo Corgo around the city of Peso da Régua in the western part of the Douro Valley. The vineyards here are less steep and the layer of earth on the slate is deeper and more fertile. About half of all port wines come from here, especially the lighter ruby and tawny qualities.
  • In Cima-Corgo around the town of Pinhão, about a third of the port wine is produced. The climate is hotter and drier, the slopes are steep, rocky, and barren. This is where the famous quintas (wineries) of the top producers are located.
  • The Douro Superior extends from São João da Pesqueira to the Spanish border. The climate here is extremely dry.


In Peso da Regua, there is a motorhome parking space right on the river under the bridges that cross the Duoro. The space is designed for 30 mobile homes, each space has a power connection and costs: ATTENTION - 3,- € per night with electricity, to be paid at the counter in the neighboring swimming pool clubhouse.

Parking space in Peso da Regua
Parking space in Peso da Regua
with Laika
with Laika

When we arrive around 2:30 p.m., the space is already well filled, in the evening every space is occupied and there are also 12 motorhomes outside on the riverbank.

The town itself is a disappointment. We walk in all directions and nowhere do we feel like we have discovered a beautiful spot. It is only connected to the riverside, where you can sit and watch the river ships.

We stop at one of the few new buildings with a restaurant and wine tasting and sweeten the afternoon with a wine tasting. Two couples who are on a study trip through the Duoro Valley are already sitting there and studying hard ....

Wine tasting with Moselle neighbors
Wine tasting with Moselle neighbors

In conversation, we learn that they are winemakers themselves and come from the Moselle. They immediately associate Bremen with the Ratskeller and the cellar master there, who comes from their area.

On the way to the motorhome, we find a really old supermarket that also carries regional wines. So we'll do our own wine tasting tonight ....

What are the lasting impressions of the first encounter with the Duoro Valley - very impressive landscape and steep slopes (I would have liked to ride my racing bike here...), there are views of the river at every turn, and the driver of a motorhome has to make an effort, after 100 kilometers it's enough.

In this part, there are very few river crossings, so you have to plan very carefully where you want to go.

The next section of the Duoro to Pinhao the next day is finally what we expected. We cross the river and drive along the N 222 on the southern side. It always sticks directly to the river and offers beautiful views of the vineyards on the north bank. They are naturally always in the sun (which shines from the south). There are also signs in the slopes indicating whose port wine is currently thriving here.

Vineyards with signs

The large wineries also advertise their visit options and tastings. We resist and just want to go to Pinhao, which is only 25 km away. This place is referred to as the birthplace of the region.

Wineries on the way
Wineries on the way

Of course, there is also a mooring place for river navigation, and the density of tourists naturally increases when a ship is docked here. Only when the steamers are gone does peace return to the small town - almost like on Heligoland.

River ship in Pinhao
River ship in Pinhao

The town is very nicely laid out, has a paved promenade along the river, and is home to at least 6 or 7 wineries.

When we arrived at the second wine tasting, what was supposed to happen all day finally started - the rain.

So far, it had spared us, but now in the afternoon, it really started pouring. Even a 2nd or 3rd glass didn't help. Eventually, we had to leave, and thank God the motorhome was only 200 meters away. But that was enough to get soaking wet from head to toe.

Now we are sitting in the dry with a great view of the river, in a really great place with a view and without any restrictions - but the view is clouded by the water running down the windshield.

Parking space in Pinhao
Parking space in Pinhao

For this, we will be rewarded tonight and go out to eat.

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