已發表: 28.12.2022
We wait fully loaded at 5 PM for our minibus. I'm already a bit nervous because we're running late. When we arrive at the bus stop, we're told that the bus is lost and we have to travel with another company. We should wait for half an hour. 3 hours later, we're still in Kakuma, but then we're off. I sit next to Muli, next to the driver, and under my seat is the engine, so I have a very hot seat heater for free and very little space. We travel until half past 3 in the morning. Since I sit so close to the driver, I'm afraid of falling asleep and falling on him :D
This part of the journey is the most tense because there are sometimes conflicts between ethnic groups at the county border of Turkana and West Pokot. Sometimes as a traveler, you get caught in the crossfire. We've been following another Matatu the whole time, so it's safer and a bit brighter. And in general, if the road becomes dangerous, you can either drive in a convoy or not at all. A Matatu can only drive at 80 km/h, and when the driver approaches 80 km/h, it beeps loudly every half a second. So for 7 and a half hours, I have this exhausting noise in my ear and I'm almost going crazy :)
The driver also got more and more tired and the road became more and more serpentine (I thought we were about to go off the road), the landscape greener, and when we arrived in Kapenguria, it was pouring rain and cold. For the first time in 2 months, I had a hot shower, it was sooo good!
Kapenguria is the capital of West Pokot. The freedom fighters for Kenya's independence were imprisoned here.
We visited the museum, where we could see the cells of the freedom fighters and learn about the life of the West Pokot people, transitional rituals, medicinal plants... The Kapenguria 6 were arrested by the whites for joining the Mau Mau, who were supposedly planning to kill all white settlers. Mau Mau is the abbreviation for the Kiswahili phrase: Mzungu aende ulaya mwafrika apate uhuru. It means: The whites should go back to Europe so that Africans can have freedom!
Then we visited beautiful waterfalls. Even after 2 months in Kakuma's dryness, I still can't get enough of this green and fertile landscape.
Kitale is the capital of Trans-Nzoia County. Almost all the vegetables and fruits imported to Kakuma come from here.
We spend the day in a nature reserve where animals with 3 or 5 legs can find a home and a large Noah's Ark promotes climate awareness. And there are also life-size figures from the Bible with riddles and funny answers, for some reason.
With about 500,000 inhabitants, Eldoret is the fifth-largest city in Kenya. We spent a day in the city, visiting cafes and a mall.
Iten is globally known as the birthplace of marathon runners. At an altitude of 2400 meters with a mild climate, many runners from around the world come here for altitude training.
At night, it was 11 degrees, and I was really cold, I guess I've gotten used to Kakuma's heat. Iten is such a peaceful, relaxed, and beautiful little place, I would have stayed longer.
We descend for at least an hour in the Matatu. The Matatu brakes smoke and steam heavily, but the driver doesn't care.
Mostly women sell fruits and vegetables to passing cars. As soon as a Matatu stops, they crowd around the windows.
Marigat is near Lake Baringo. Similar to Lake Turkana, it has risen several meters in recent years, destroying houses and tourism. And similar to Turkana, it's hot here again. We saw a hippo and crocodiles, which was a bit exciting. Moreover, the lake is home to hundreds of different bird species.
In Nakuru, we hiked to Mount Menengai, the sixth-largest crater in the world. One of the souvenir shop owners took the time to explain everything to us about volcanoes, rocks, and herbs that grow here.
Yes, hopefully God is in control because the 2-lane road from Nakuru to Nairobi is heavily trafficked and oncoming traffic always hopes that you slow down or swerve. Not good for my nerves!
We spend one night camping to cycle through the Hell's Gate National Park the next day. Hell's Gate was the inspiration for the film "The Lion King," and I really felt it. There were no lions though. We wake up at 6 AM for the sunrise, and it was too cold in the tent to keep sleeping.
Being able to bike in the national park was one of the best things. I satisfied my longing for Freiburg again. And besides, you feel even closer to the animals when you're not sitting in a 4x4 all day.
After the park, we cycled uphill to hot springs for a very long time, only to realize that it's an expensive bathing experience for non-Kenyans with water from the hot springs. But going downhill compensated for the unnecessary effort. Only the speed bumps (there are many in Kenya) without traffic signs and markings almost threw me over the handlebars.
I am very happy to have made this trip with Muli. His goal is to travel to all 47 counties in Kenya before traveling abroad. With Muli, I could confidently leave the tourist paths behind and travel from place to place without a destination or plan. He was a great negotiator for prices, a translator for me, and simply a good friend.
We arrive in Nairobi on Saturday night. I had a very joyful reunion with Maggy, with whom I spent my very first days in Kenya.
Soccer festival - almost everyone supports France because there are so many black players on the team. They call the team 'African Union'. But whenever Messi scores, everyone celebrates him too. There was a really good atmosphere, even though Les Bleus didn't make it.
After 3 days in Nairobi with spontaneous birthday celebrations (birthdays don't have such a high value here for most people, and even your own birthday can be forgotten), Christmas movies with Maggy, and visits to the mall, I then traveled with Bryan to his family towards Lake Victoria for the Christmas holidays. I had a very different, but wonderful Christmas. I hope you had a nice one too. And that your facial muscles hurt from all the grinning and laughing, just like mine.
Your Franny