Kardamyli

Saturday, 03.06.2023

Today, we unpack the bikes and go on an amazing bike tour to Kardamyli, which is about 7 km away. It involves some uphill and downhill riding, which is not tiring for me with the e-bike, but it is for Martin, who is still pedaling without the "e". Bicycle paths are rare in Greece, so we have to ride along the winding main road, which initially worries me about the southern drivers, but it turns out to be unfounded. Cyclists seem to be a rare and protected species here, and cars overtake us cautiously and with plenty of space. Kardamyli mainly consists of a narrow main street, with cafes and a few small nice shops. However, the main attraction is the historical settlement with its defensive towers. The region around Kardamyli is a beautiful hiking area, and a small circular path to the Agia Sofia church starts directly at our location, so we decide spontaneously to go there. The path is constantly uphill, very rocky and rough, and the sun mercilessly beats down on us, but we are rewarded with beautiful views along the way. Unfortunately, the church is closed, but it is said to be one of the most beautiful Byzantine churches in Greece. We take a short break on the steps and enjoy the view before we head back downhill. The hiking trail is truly beautiful, sometimes very narrow and rocky, and it smells pleasantly of sage and oregano. Sun-yellow butterflies, with a bluish-green color on the lower edge of their wings, accompany us the whole time. Looks amazing! Back in the village, we treat ourselves to a frappé in a street café. When we arrive at the campsite, Martin takes a quick trip to the beach and the sea, so he has completed the vacationer triathlon today: cycling, hiking, and swimming...

In the evening, we walk to Stoupa, which doesn't really have much to offer besides the beach promenade and a sandy beach. We sit in a café with live music. It gradually fills up, apparently the season is starting today, which we have heard several times during the week, and it is also noticeable in the prices of gasoline. Diesel has cost between €1.47 and €1.55 in the past few days, and suddenly today it's €1.70! A quick note about the gas stations: we suspect that it feels like every second Greek person owns a gas station. They are as common as sand on the beach (to go back to the comparison with the Roman road in Ettlingenweier, which has seven bus stops and three gas stations!). Some of them are tiny with only two fuel pumps, and they occasionally pop up in the middle of nowhere, even if there are no other settlements nearby... Anyway, we spend a nice evening in Stoupa with a sunset...