進一步超越棍棒、石頭和樹枝

I was amazed myself. Contrary to all fears, the express delivery had actually worked. After the morning meal, the spirits actually returned and the runny nose stopped as well. Even the weather had calmed down again. The landscape was still generally dripping, but the sun had regained dominance and slowly but surely put an end to the morning fog.

So I continued pushing my bike over tree, stone, and twig up the paths. To my surprise, I soon even reached the tree line. Through expansive grasslands, I now made my way to Monte Piazza, which offered a breathtaking panorama - in front of me was the bay of Genoa, and in the background, the view extended to the distant, and now snow-covered, Monte Viso. How long ago my visit to this king of stone was, and yet it still stood out prominently from here.

At first, I thought that would be the most challenging pushing passage for today. But the conquering of Passo Mezzano would soon teach me otherwise. It's not that steep pushing sections and rocky terrain generally deter me, but the frustrating thing about AVML compared to similar sections in the Alps was the lack of reward. The beautiful, epic descent trail after the hardship was usually missing here. Either the sections were a constant up and down with very short trail sections, or the descent was too rocky or just a boring paved road. There was always some spoiler, and so while AVML is still an adventure, it is not really a highlight in terms of riding technique over long distances.

After some effort, I reached the Giovipass. Also known to non-bikepackers as the point where the A7 crosses the mountains after the Po Plain and offers the motorized traveler their first view of Genoa and the Mediterranean. Here I finally wanted to set up my tent again. I found a wonderful and seemingly lonely place between two villages with an exclusive view of the sea. However, it turned out that I was by no means the only one who knew how to appreciate this gem. I had to be patient with setting up the tent until all the walkers, mountain bikers, riders, and mushroom-seeking groups of teenagers had passed me and finally the darkness set in.

When I set off the next morning, the first hunters were already out. Another factor to consider on late autumn tours. It was hunting season, and I sincerely hoped that even from a distance and despite having spent several weeks in the wilderness with very limited hairdresser contact, I could still be distinguished from a wild boar. These hunters greeted me friendly from their hiding places, but they were certainly not too happy that such a clod had probably driven away everything else in front of their guns.

On this day, I was again faced with a painfully long pushing passage. Just when I had finally accepted the situation about halfway through the journey and no longer lamented my fate, another mountain biker suddenly appeared. I was delighted to finally meet another madman right in the middle of the AVML. As he passed me quickly, he shouted after me - be careful, there are 15 more coming. And indeed, I couldn't believe it. A group of fifteen other bikers bumbled past me little by little. I mean, who does a tour in such a large group?! And then in such an area. However, since they were traveling without luggage, it must have been a day trip or something organized with luggage transport. Whatever the case, after the pack, solitude returned until I reached Passo della Scoffera, the location of my next accommodation.

Here awaited the next surprise. At first, everything seemed normal and pleasing to me. The accommodation had a great terrace to catch the last rays of the day, I could replenish my supplies in the small grocery store, and there was even a nice, modest-looking restaurant at the summit. Until the very courteous host presented me with the menu. The prices were outrageous. The pasta started at 20 euros and up. Well, there were truffles and seafood included, it was all a bit more exclusive. But for the province, it was still disproportionate. However, due to a lack of alternatives, I had no choice but to spend as much on this one dinner as I had for all the meals of the last three days combined.