Part 3: The South

Now I have been in Croatia for 4 weeks and I am moving further south. I have stopped island hopping by bike for now: it was nice to move around with the bike again, but... exhausting (especially for my knees).

11.5. Tuesday. After arriving by ferry from Brac, I first go to the car (everything untouched and good!) and then to the city forest and walk to Nugal Beach. Here you can go nude bathing. I use a shelter made of driftwood and expand it further. I can't stand the sun. I keep going into the still fresh sea with 17°C. At 5pm I cycle through Makarska to Petrus, the cave, and through the 2 lanes. Shopping and finding a new parking space. I drive up to the Botanical Garden. Here I have a great view over the city and the islands.

12.5. Wednesday, Makarska. It's pouring rain and thundering. Should I have breakfast in the car? Then the sun comes out, so I go out. I hike on the old path that leads to the alpine pastures on the plateau of Biokovo. There is now a toll road behind. I climb 1150m in 3:40. The clouds keep playing around me, but at the top the view is clear. But it's windier and colder than I thought. After an hour I start heading towards Makar and up to 800m above the wooded ridge. Here I take a nap in the warmth. I'm only back at the car shortly before 6pm. Shopping and finding a parking space. It's at the construction site for a new lookout point on the outskirts of Podgora. First I go back into the cool water, then cook and play the guitar with Sliwowitz.

13.5. Thursday, Podgora. Rain and thunder again. The ground around the car is so soaked that I sink into the mud. That's a lot of work. The shoes and the doormat have to be cleaned in the car after breakfast. Today I have no plan. Where to go? What to do? It will be a day of rest with a walk through Igrane. I walk from the church up the road to the harbor and drive another 5km to the beautiful bay of Velika Duba. Sunbathing, swimming, and making phone calls. Then I take a walk to Blato and again sunbathing, swimming, and making phone calls. I look up 2 kite surfing schools nearby and ask about courses via email. For dinner, I warm up the leftovers from yesterday and play the guitar again.

14.5. Friday, Mala Duba. For breakfast, I drive to the next harbor, Drvenik. While sitting on the bench, everything is buzzing around me and the ferry to Hvar is leaving. I received a message from the Neretva surf school, where I can take a course on Sunday. Spontaneously, I discover a circular path to the Gardina ruin on the map. I start with an umbrella, but it stops raining before I even reach the old cemetery, and it's getting warm. The old path is partly built over as a downhill track. A mini frog swims in a small water ditch. There is almost nothing left of the ruin, but you have a great view from here. I briefly talk to a man on the pier who is waiting for tourists. He even offers me schnapps. Unfortunately, I spontaneously decline. I take a lunch break with a swim at the beach. Unfortunately, you can't stay overnight here, so I drive up to the cemetery in the mountains. There is an almost deserted village with ruins and a great boule court. I take many video recordings. Loud "IA" comes from a bush, a donkey shows up. When I want to take a picture of him, he comes towards me and I'm afraid he wants to bite me. He probably just wanted to play. Further along the slope, I find a great parking space in front of a dacha. Today there is herring in mustard sauce with potatoes and fig rolls soaked in Sliwowitz for dessert.

15.5. Saturday, Podaca. For breakfast, I drive to the harbor of Brist. I sit under the roof of a hotel and stay dry. There isn't a person to be seen in the whole village. It is supposed to rain until 2pm. I decide to hike to Mount Iljia, 773m high, which takes about 2 hours. I park at a well-kept farmhouse. Still, no one around. After a few meters in the tall grass, my shoes are already soaked. The ticks seem to like the wet weather. The path is well-maintained up to a ruin in the forest. But soon there is no trace left, and I have to find my way from sign to sign, and the signs are not always easy to find. It's much more challenging than I thought, and I have to put my poles away because I need both hands to climb. I reach the top at 4pm and the clouds clear up a bit. I take a summit photo and take a nap. Rain wakes me up and I'm surrounded by clouds. Now the rocks are slippery again and I slide several times on the descent. Luckily, I don't get hurt. It's already 7pm when I only drive to the next cemetery. Cooking and sleeping.

16.5. Sunday, near Ploče. I have breakfast at the parking lot above the lakes. During the bike tour around the lakes, a Croat shows me his favorite spot. After shopping at Lidl, I climb the viewpoint Veliki Trovro. It's easy on the newly built path. Next to the huge cross, there is a wind organ in every direction. Unfortunately, I can't hear anything, and I only find out the function after searching on the Internet. The next destination is Metković. On the way, there is a ruin near Opuzen. I like it here so much that I decide to stay overnight. I leave the car and ride to Metković. I take a look at the church and the promenade along the river. Nothing special, but a cozy Croatian Sunday. People sit on park benches and in cafes. On the way back, in Opuzen, I discover 17 murals. Besides the well-kept promenade along the river and the town hall, there are many old ugly concrete ruins. The evening ends with cooking and beer.

17.5. Monday, Opuzen. Slept until 6:30 am. That's long for me. Leisurely breakfast at the parking lot. Then I drive to the construction site of the new bridge. It is supposed to make it possible to bypass the Bosnian port of Neum by land. The bridge is built by the Chinese and apparently they brought everything with them: even the prohibition signs are in Chinese. Unfortunately, no new bridge part is being lifted at the moment. Only crates are being moved from the ship by (car) crane. I arrive at the right kite spot at 12 o'clock. I check the situation and watch Germans learning. From 2 pm, Lovre practices with me with a small kite on land and then with the 9m² kite in shallow water. I should be able to control the kite smoothly in the wind window from 9-15h. I go for a swim at a jetty, but drive back to sleep. I invite the group for a round. The evening ends cozy by the fire.

18.5. Tuesday, Komin at the kite spot. I wake up at 5:15 am. The sunrise promises to be beautiful. So I put on a vest and stand on the pier. The first anglers come and search for shrimp in the mud. After breakfast, I dispose of the garbage. Suddenly, the bag of chips I want to pick up starts moving. The rat didn't notice me at all, and I can film it in peace. There are still 5 hours until my coaching continues. I ride along the Neretva River and through the fruit orchards to Opuzen. I get a yogurt for collecting beer cans on the roadside. I also buy aluminum foil to cover the blinds in the car. Then the coaching continues. Today, Marco, the long one, is my teacher. First lesson: waiting for the wind. I set up the kite myself, but something is twisted during the launch. Unfortunately, I don't understand what went wrong. We practice starts and landings in the water. Unfortunately, the wind is very weak in between, and it is difficult to turn the kite. Before the wind dies completely, I still practice body surfing. In the afternoon, no one is at the camp. I play the guitar and cook for myself. I watch the sunset from the river.

19.5. Wednesday, Neretva Kite School. Learning to kite is a test of patience. We have an appointment at 1 pm. Until then, I ride to Ploče. The first part leads along the Neretva. Unfortunately, I have to ride over the bridge on the main road. A section of the subsequent side road leads through two tunnels, which look very much like an old railway track. I don't really like Ploče. The church square is large and bright, but lacks atmosphere. I can refill my water in the concrete sports facilities behind it. I sit on the beach for a while with a view of the industrial plants and make phone calls. Then I exchange the collected beer cans for groceries and ride back to the camp. The wind is still coming from the south and Lovre says we have to wait until the wind turns at 4 o'clock. So I dressed too early and changed again. While waiting, I work on the blackout for the Dacia. I cover the cardboard with aluminum foil. Then Mark comes at 3 o'clock and says we can try it now, but the wind dies again. Half an hour later, it's so strong that I have to get used to it first. Finally, we practice starting with the board. Unfortunately, it doesn't work at all! I'm a bit frustrated! I can only stand on the board briefly and then fall back. Once it pulls me so far forward that my cap and contact lens fly away. Enough for today. I'm cold and have no more patience and energy. Get out of the wet clothes and eat something warm. New travelers from Aalen arrive and we make small talk. I go to sleep right after sunset.

20.5. Thursday, Neretva estuary. Waiting for wind. It could start at 11 am today. So I stay here in the morning. I watch the locals collect mussels, film a hermit crab, and free a small fish from a beer can. Then I continue to cover the window blackout with aluminum foil. At 11 am, no kite instructor comes. We don't go into the water with the kite and board until 1:30 pm. But Lovre immediately aborts because it is too dangerous for me as a beginner with the gusty wind. The others are happy and jump around. All the waiting is for nothing, we pack up the kite again: tomorrow should be better. I am frustrated and bored. Luckily, Benni invites me for a boat trip into the sunset. How romantically wild! We end the day with a campfire and I play the guitar a bit, just the 7 songs I know by heart.

21.5. Friday, Neretva kite spot. It's cloudy today and I have breakfast on the bench in front of the kite surf school for the fifth time. It's time for me to wake up! I quickly replenish my supplies and fill up water. I'm at the ferry early, buy a ticket for 20€, and join the small queue to park the car. I take a bike ride, but don't discover anything exciting. I can't get into the harbor, so I can only see the large crane from the back after passing by piles of steel and coal. I am greeted by the Madonna in Trpanj. She stands on tilted rocks and I have to climb to get closer to her. The coastal path is wheelchair accessible here. In the bay, I can't find a nice bathing spot, so I only eat my muesli and drive to swim in Orebić. I still have data volume left today and listen to the exciting relegation battle in the Bundesliga on wdr2. Then I check the kite spot, but only discover the surfers when I go up the hill after Lovište. Today, I stand on the rough gravel at the western end of the coastal road from Lovište. After cooking and eating, dog owners pass by, but it's quiet here and I take a short walk on the beach over the rocks.

22.5. Saturday, Neretva kite spot. Today it's cloudy and I have breakfast on the bench in front of the kite surf school for the fifth time. It's time for me to wake up! I quickly replenish my supplies and refill water. I'm early at the ferry, buy a ticket for 20€, and join the small queue to park the car. I take a bike ride, but don't discover anything exciting. I can't get into the harbor, so I can only see the large crane from the back after passing by piles of steel and coal. I am greeted by the Madonna in Trpanj. She stands on tilted rocks and I have to climb to get closer to her. The coastal path is wheelchair accessible here. In the bay, I can't find a nice bathing spot, so I only eat my muesli and drive to swim in Orebić. I still have data volume left today and listen to the exciting relegation battle in the Bundesliga on wdr2. Then I check the kite spot, but only discover the surfers when I go up the hill after Lovište. Today, I stand on the rough gravel at the western end of the coastal road from Lovište. After cooking and eating, dog owners pass by, but it's quiet here and I take a short walk on the beach over the rocks.

23.5. Pentecost, Lovište. After breakfast in Lovište, I park the car at the church in Karmen. This is where my circular hike to Mount Elia starts, at an altitude of 961m. The guide recommends doing the hike clockwise. So I start along the slope to the north and first reach the Franciscan monastery. The church service has just ended and I have the opportunity to look inside the church. The path now climbs moderately and runs along the slope to a plateau. The mountain top is still covered in clouds and I walk through a foggy forest. I take a break at the shelter until the sun comes out. At the summit, I'm in the wind again, which almost blows my cap off. The further I walk on the ridge, the better I can look at the coast of Orebić. Cloud fragments keep passing through and obscuring the view, which makes it even more interesting. I start the descent at 4 pm. I shorten the loop to the shelter a bit by walking cross-country. Unfortunately, there is no sign of the wild horses on the high meadow. The way back is easy to walk, but due to the long detour, it's also longer than expected. I'm back at the car at 7 pm. The family is still playing here, but I'll cook and spend the night here. The evening is very mild and I can watch the moon without freezing.

24.5. Pentecost Monday, Orebić. Since I spent the night in the city above the beach, I get up early and go swimming before sunrise. Even during breakfast, the sun shows what it can do. I ride along the coast road over the peninsula to the east and have beautiful views all the time. At Potomje, I go through a small tunnel. The very small road leads through vineyards and blooming broom. In the idyllic Trstenik, you could also linger. I enjoy the view from the pier and the small chapel on the hill. On the way to Ston, much is being built for the new bridge connection. In Ston, I first visit the fortress and then climb the city walls. I ride my bike to Mali Ston for the second walk on the city walls, it gets very hot and I enjoy a swim. Back on the mainland, finding a parking space on the coast becomes more difficult. Many campsites are open now, and I don't want to park in between. In Slano, the navigation leads me down a very narrow path where I get stuck. I have to reverse back over a very narrow bridge, and I start sweating. But I made it, and now quickly into the water. The beer has warmed up. I put it in the sea to cool down. One floats away from me, and I find it much further away than I thought after a long search. I drive back a bit to find a place to sleep, but the chosen spot is already taken by a couple. So I go back a bit further. Here, I stand well and enjoy the sunset while cooking.

26.5. Wednesday, Slano. I lie in the Dacia with the door open and create a GIF and dictate the diary when Patricia suddenly says "Good morning" from the side. She has been coming to this spot in Croatia for 20 years and is glad to have escaped the Covid situation in Germany for a while. She usually practices yoga here. She is already meeting her friend for breakfast, so I have breakfast alone here. I take my first swim in the Soline bay spontaneously. Before Dubrovnik, I cross a large bridge. I start the search for a parking space a bit late. I'm about to start cycling when a black limousine and security block the road in front of me. Then I see the no-parking sign and prefer to look for another parking space. I finally find one in Bosanka on the way to Srđ, the viewpoint. From here, I can zoom down with my bike, but I'll have to sweat on the way up again. The view of Dubrovnik's old city walls is fantastic. Through the fortress moat, I reach the west gate. There are a few tourists here now, but the city is really empty. I walk along the southern wall through the narrow streets. There are two passages to small beaches with cozy bars. At the west gate near the fort, I take a swim. In the second passage, I explore the northern alleys. The promenade with many restaurants is particularly cozy. Seen enough. I cycle back to the outskirts for a short time and buy a new memory card for my many pictures, then it's back on the narrow main road towards the car. I always keep an eye on the rearview mirror because the cars drive quite close to me. The last section, the serpentine climb, is steep again, but without car traffic. For cooking, I take the box to a spot overlooking Dubrovnik. After 6 pm, I ride the remaining 150m to the cable car station. Here I enjoy the great view and the sunset and take one picture after another. Only when the full moon rises, I roll back to the car.

27.5. Thursday, above Dubrovnik. Today I wake up at 5 am, so I drive the car back to the cable car station to watch the sunrise in peace and have breakfast here. Today I want to do the bike tour to Sokol Castle from the guidebook. On the way there, I first fill up with water in Mlini and go for a swim at the same time. The tour actually starts in Cavtat, but the search for a shady parking space leads me past the airport further and further up the valley, until I reach Gruda. I think the whole route would have been too much for me today. Through fields and vineyards, I reach an open gate. Usually, there is a closed gate after an open one. So I ask the people working on the vineyard with gestures if I can pass here. They nod. But a few meters further, I stand at a closed gate and have to lift the bike over it. The little adventure continues with a river crossing in the ford. The beautiful old mill is a bit hidden. Today, there is a group of men, and we have a video conference. I greet the men briefly. The restaurant behind it is still without visitors and the boarder waitress checks if I am the first guest. I would have definitely stopped here with Ulla, but alone I prefer to continue riding and eat my muesli on the castle. But until then, I have to overcome another 250 meters in altitude and sweat. Sokol is the smallest castle I have ever visited. Already the access is only a narrow steep stone staircase. But everything has been freshly renovated and beautifully prepared. Although I look into every corner, I finish the visit quickly. The rest of the bike ride is easy because it's mostly downhill. Along the way, I discover a farm with many R4 cars, all well-prepared for a rally or excursion. I have to send Willi some pictures. With the car, I drive from Gruda to Cavtat. There, I go to the beach with the bike and ride around the beautiful promenade once around the peninsula. How beautiful these places are when streams of tourists do not clog the streets. Everything looks very inviting. Unfortunately, there is no place to stay overnight here, so I continue driving on the coastal road in search of a sleeping place. I end up between hotel ruins in the bay of Kupari. At the same time, a limping 70-year-old, white-haired bath Heronimo arrives here and tells me about his dream of living as a street musician in Europe. Croatia is still very much influenced by communism, and he is surrounded by vultures. I warm up my leftovers and he plays the guitar. He would love to trade his Polo for a Mercedes, so I have to teach him the song "Mercedes-Benz" by Klaus Lage. I write the lyrics and chords on an old envelope for him. However, he prefers the Italian-Spanish style. I am so involved in the conversation that I don't notice that the sun has set. His acquaintances arrive in their cars while younger people come at the same time. But it remains quiet, and after a walk on the beach, I fall asleep quickly.

28.5. Friday, Kupari near Cavtat. The mileage on the tachometer is 145824, and the return journey begins.

End of Part 3