Stage 12: Walking in the Fog

We wake up after a very cold night, but well warmed by the thick blankets. We were told that there had been a storm and it had been just above freezing. Everything is shrouded in dense fog, and we walk through a curtain of droplets. We set off wearing our rain jackets. Today, a larger portion of the trail runs along a heavily trafficked asphalt road, where hiking is not enjoyable, especially since it has started raining lightly. We try twice to find a more pleasant bypass route, but we are driven away, among other things, by the intrusive Costa Rican dogs who want to protect their territory. After the last bad experience, we continue walking along the road, past the American Brummies. Today, we finally pass numerous open grocery stores where we can replenish our supplies for the road. Unfortunately, we are not so lucky with the restaurants, which are still closed. However, we decide to take a short break on the porch of a restaurant and change our jackets when a man approaches us, who turns out to be the owner. Fortunately, he thought we were his friends from a distance, so he came over. He kindly invites us to have a hot tea in the cozy dining area, which we gratefully accept. In the warm dining area, we are also served delicious chocolate cake with our tea and have a great conversation with him. He turns out to be a supporter of the Camino and tells us a lot about the local fruits, spices, and of course the coffee that he also sells here. He lets us smell a mild variety of coffee that is produced in a special way, where a type of honey produced by the plant is also processed. After some consideration, Chris decides to buy a package, which he will have to carry on the next stages. So it must taste especially good! The man also tells us that he regularly sees Quetzals here in the early morning hours and that he saw an armadillo crossing the road just yesterday. He doesn't want anything for the small snack, so we say goodbye, grateful for the welcome break. We have perfected our lunch on the go: we usually eat crispy plantains with packaged bean dip (Frijoles), as well as nuts, fruit, and Costa Rican chocolate, which provides great energy for the journey. It is still very foggy and windy. Due to the altitude and humidity, moss and ferns grow on everything, even on fences or power lines. The trees look like bearded giants, so overgrown they are, and serve as firm anchor points in the mist. We are now at the highest point of the Camino at an altitude of 2340 meters, so from now on it will be more downhill than uphill. As soon as we descend, the sun breaks through more and more, and it becomes warmer. We are reminded of Germany by the pine trees and cows grazing in the pasture here. Now, the red and white trail markers or the spray-painted symbol of the hummingbird, the symbol of the Camino de Costa Rica, appear more regularly, which were previously scarce. A little further on, we read a sign that commemorates the seemingly deceased pioneer of the Camino who developed the route. We pass through the town of San Pablo de León Cortés, where there are surprisingly many shops and restaurants, as well as the much-awaited ATM. We then continue to San Marcos, where we stay at the Hotel Palenque de Tarazú. Unfortunately, we cannot do laundry, even though washing machines are available. We go to bed early because tomorrow is our longest stage.