On November 21st we took the bus from Siem Reap to Battambang. We arrived in the afternoon and walked a bit through this small town. The French used to be here and that's why there are a lot of colonial buildings. There are beautiful promenades and parks on the banks of the Sangker River. There are permanently installed fitness machines scattered around. Half-seriously we did a few exercises or puzzled over which exercise to do on the equipment. It wasn't always self-explanatory.
Actually, we should also do the exercises more seriously. We do walk a lot, but that can't have been it! The next day we rented a scooter. With that we headed to the Bamboo Train. A trolley with a bamboo frame. 2 axles with wheels are placed on the rails and the bamboo frame and motor are placed on them.
We were driven into the rice fields at around 40-50 km/h. It was very jerky and incredibly loud! In between there was oncoming traffic. We then had to get off, our trolley was put to the side, the other trolley drove a little further and our trolley was put back on the tracks. At a certain point a stop was made and the trolley was hoisted off the rails again. We had to wait for the train from Phnom Penh. Then we drove back again.
When the children no longer all fit on the scooter.
After this nice excursion we went to Banan Temple. There are over 300 steps leading up to the temple.
Unfortunately not all stages can be seen. It continued behind the canopy of leaves!
In front of the stairs a woman was selling small birds that were crowded together and flapping excitedly in their cages. She said I could buy one and leave it free. That brings luck. She should let all the birds free and have a lot of luck herself!
At the top we were sweaty, but a pleasant wind cooled us down and blew away the mosquitoes that became greedy of our smell. Banan Temple is not big, but it is beautiful and very old. Banan Temple When we got back downstairs, the bird seller was gone, but the cages were still there. I would have liked to just open all the cages, but the police were nearby. Animal protection is in its infancy, or rather in its baby shoes, in Southeast Asia. A fact that we always have to come to terms with.
Finally we went to Phnom Sampow. At the top of the mountain we visited the "Killing Cave": a hole that leads steeply down into a cave. The Khmer Rouge threw people into this hole. Those who were dead were dead, those who survived died at some point.
The Killing Cave Heart killing cat! View from Phnom Sampow
But Phnom Sampow doesn't just have gruesome caves to offer. A cave is not accessible to humans. Every evening at sunset an absolutely fascinating natural spectacle takes place! The people who live there have also set up tables and chairs. We sat down with the other onlookers and ordered beer and coconut.
Everyone is waiting for one thing...
At some point it started: bats streamed out of the cave! A long line of bats snaked out into the dusk. We sat and watched in fascination for about 30 minutes. Most of the onlookers had already left and the chairs were being collected by the time we set off. But bats were still coming out of the cave! That must be millions (2-3 million according to the travel guide)!!
Hungry bats The next day was incredibly hot and humid! Our host suggested Hotel Banan to us. You can go into the pool there for $3. We did that too! We wanted to plan our trip anyway and why not by the pool?! On November 24th we took a guided tour around Battambang. Our guide, Kim, told us a lot about the history of Cambodia and Battambang. He showed us various buildings and statues. He also showed us how the Cambodian people dry fish or how the huge water vats are made to collect water during the rainy season for the dry season. Like so many things, a lot is still made by hand and passed down through the family. We also visited a stall where sticky rice is made in bamboo and a rice wine distillery. The sticky rice is filled into the bamboo together with coconut milk and red beans and sealed with a banana leaf. Everything is placed over the fire for several hours. A lot of the bamboo is then chopped away except for a thin layer. This is a great way to transport the sticky rice! If you want to eat it, you have to fold away the remaining bamboo layer. Rice wine distillery
In the evening we drank a few beers with the owner of our accommodation. He comes from near Paderborn, more like Rüthen. As the evening progressed, we discovered that he was his best customer. Thanks to the marijuana, which he smoked a lot and pure, the conversation became very strange. Somehow we strayed from the topic of gender and he went from one conspiracy theory to the next. And he supposedly knows a lot because he has good friends in high positions who have given him information that he shouldn't actually know. Oh yes, all clear.
At some point he said "You just have to follow the path of money. Do you know who controls all the banks?" We looked at each other and said "No." And he said "The Jews!" Before things could become anti-Semitic, we began a tactical retreat. It was all a bit too blatant. The next day we took the train to Phnom Penh. The train is very simple. But the bench seats are padded and everything that goes into the toilet ends up right on the rails. Like in old times! Only without the announcement that you are not allowed to go to the toilet in the station.
We sat at the front of the train. At every level crossing the train honked several times and loudly. Even if there were barriers (but they were rare). That gave me a bit of a headache.
There was a stop halfway along the route. You could have bought food. But we were told we would only stay for 5 minutes so we didn't dare buy anything. But at some point the 5 minutes turned into 10 minutes, then 15 and longer. The sellers had already left. The entire train crew was standing at one wheel. Someone was working around under the train. We felt a bit uneasy because we didn't really want to get stranded somewhere. Suddenly there was a jolt through the train. Apparently a brake didn't want to release (according to engineer Ivar). Then the locomotive was uncoupled at the back and reconnected to the front of the train. Who knows why. But it was good that the honking got quieter!
It got dark, the lights came on, flickered wildly and went out again. It was zapping dark. There are also no street lights to shine through. It stayed that way until Phnom Penh. The moon was bright and everything was illuminated silver. People talked quietly, the children fell asleep. Every now and then you could see fireflies dancing across the rice fields. A wonderful atmosphere!
We arrived in Phnom Penh around 11 p.m. Totally exhausted and hungry (luckily we had cookies and dried fruit with us!). Our new accommodation is great! We have a room with a gallery. There is a mattress upstairs and downstairs is the bathroom, a small sofa corner and a mini kitchen with a washing machine!
Well, half of the cookware is used to catch the condensation from the air conditioning!
In the morning I went to the market and bought fruit and avocado. In the supermarket there is still oatmeal, yoghurt and bread. It's been a long time since I've been able to take care of myself again. Strangely enough, I was looking forward to this!
The water festival (Bon Om Touk) is currently taking place in Phnom Penh and there's something going on here!!! So many people!!
In front of the king's palace
It celebrates the end of the rainy season and the reversal of the flow of the Tonle Sap River. In Phnom Penh, the Tonle Sap flows into the Mekong, which then flows through Vietnam and flows into the South China Sea. In the rainy season, the Mekong carries four times as much water as usual due to the monsoon rains and meltwater from the Himalayas. This water pushes into the Tonle Sap River, which then changes its flow direction.
During the water festival there is the dragon boat race on the Tonle Sap. Long, colorful boats compete against each other in knockout rounds. On the 3rd day comes the final from which the final winner emerges. In the evening there are fireworks and boats with light installations sail on the river. Every ministry has to present itself. The king then decides who has the most beautiful light installation.
There is food everywhere (baguette, soup, caterpillars, spiders, cockroaches, fruit, meat skewers, etc), drinks, balloons, children's toys and so much more!! We always smile at the food stalls. While in Germany you have to register the food stand (you probably also have to comply with some hygiene standards), the Cambodian people turn a bucket over, put a tray on top and present their items for sale on it. Or you can simply set up a grill (no fire extinguisher in sight) or cleverly turn thin round pieces of dough over the embers with two sticks until the dough rises.
Anyone who sells drinks has, at best, a cool box. Anything can be sold. Without a liquor license. It's funny!
Children often sit with you or walk around with a tray on their head and are supposed to sell things (often fruit). If no one buys anything, an adult comes on a scooter and takes the child to the next location. Hm.
Today, November 27th, was a quiet day for us. Make a phone call to Germany and then again in the crowd in the evening. We ate delicious skewers and eggs, which were put into small bowls and placed on the grill until the egg had set. I also bought worms. I don't know if they were fried or boiled. They tasted mealy, but okay. I still didn't manage my portion. We keep trying things out, sometimes it tastes delicious, sometimes it tastes okay. We made our way to a fair with rides.
Cambodian singers sang on stages, everything was very colorful and loud.
At some point we strolled back to our accommodation, full and tired.
Incidentally, the sand fly bites have recently stopped itching.
