General Yue Fei

From the Xiling Bridge at West Lake in Hangzhou, it's only 500 meters to our next destination: the Yue Fei Temple. But what does 'only' even mean in this weather?! The trees along the beautiful avenue are drenching us with rain, and we arrive at the temple well soaked. This temple wasn’t originally on my list of places to visit, as a fleeting glance at the figure of Yue Fei didn’t pique my interest. It’s again my parents-in-law who are keen on the temple, familiar with the history of Yue Fei, and want to update the sightseeing tour. While the large main hall and the two smaller side pavilions still reveal a typical temple style with a giant statue, we find several pavilions in the neighboring garden where the life and individual life stages of Yue Fei are highlighted. Yue Fei lived from 1103 to 1142 and was a general of the Southern Song Dynasty. As the invading Jurchens (Jin Dynasty) from the north threatened the power of the Song Dynasty, the general played a central role in the defensive battles, achieving great success and immense fame through clever strategies and leadership skills. Now, various factions emerged at the Song court, with the peace negotiations faction gaining dominance. However, Yue Fei did not trust the enemies and saw his suspicions confirmed by subsequent military actions of the Jurchens. The power struggles continued, and when Emperor Gaozong began to lean towards the peace party, these proponents took their revenge on Yue Fei, using him as a pawn of peace. He was captured and - as demanded by the Jurchens in the treaty - was executed in Hangzhou on January 27, 1142. But the following Emperor Xiaozong rehabilitated Yue Fei. Today, the general is celebrated as a great hero, whose immense renown and significance in modern times I was previously unaware of. Where does this enthusiasm for a general who fought and lived 900 years ago come from? Today, many Chinese see their cultural identity rooted in the Song Dynasty, and thus Yue Fei defended this culture. It thus becomes a question of identity when one is enthusiastic about Yue Fei’s personality or at least honors his deeds. His grave is also said to be on the grounds, but during our rain-soaked pavilion hopping, I didn’t pay attention to any signs. While Yue Fei may be a hero, our battle against the rain should not be underestimated either. A vacation in Hangzhou should not come to an end without proof that there can also be sunshine here in southern China. While my parents-in-law continue their journey to Shanghai to visit relatives, we spontaneously extend our stay in Hangzhou for another two days. I want to at least see the glimmer of the sun on the West Lake.