Don Curry and the Art of Liking Yerevan

Don Curry always delves into the history when he visits a new country or city. Many peculiarities of the present have historical roots and can be better understood when you know the background. Yerevan is one of the oldest cities in the world; the Urartians built the Erebuni Fortress in the current city area as early as 782 BC and dominated large parts of the region from here. Even in the many centuries that followed, Yerevan had a certain significance under various rulers. However, it was only with the beginning of the Soviet era that the city underwent rapid development. At the beginning of the 20th century, Yerevan had just under 30,000 inhabitants and was considered an oriental city. The Armenian architect Alexander Tamanyan was eventually commissioned to develop a master plan for the new Yerevan, similar to what Baron Haussmann had done for Paris. Historical buildings were rigorously lost, ancient churches, mosques, synagogues had to give way to create a network of wide boulevards and to establish representative squares. Tamanyan also ensured that a belt of parks and green spaces was created around the actual city center. Yerevan now has over one million inhabitants and continues to spread in all directions. Unfortunately, the green areas are also being reduced more and more because they represent valuable building land close to the center.

Don Curry immediately had a view of a part of the million-city when he woke up and took a first look out the window. Skyscrapers and other buildings stretch to the horizon - and the Ararat Mountain towers over everything, almost in clear splendor. Don Curry had an even better view from the rooftop terrace on the 15th floor, which also houses the breakfast room with comfortable seating. Here Don Curry could choose between fried eggs or omelette, two different juices, coffee or tea, three types of cereal, and many other options of international and Armenian breakfast offerings. He was particularly interested in the almost black beef ham Basturma, which almost melted on the tongue in thin slices. With this buffet, Don Curry would be well equipped for the coming days.

Today Xerra deserved a day off as in Yerevan, walking is often faster than being stuck in the constant traffic jams. In addition, the high density of buildings on the wide boulevards means that there is usually a shaded sidewalk, at least on one side. Don Curry's first destination was the relatively nearby 'Blue Mosque' from the 18th century, the only active mosque in Armenia and at the same time a cultural center of the neighboring country Iran. Through a high colorful gate, Don Curry entered a beautifully designed courtyard with a fountain in the middle of a well-kept garden. Although the mosque with its blue dome was not allowed to be entered, open doors provided a view of the entire interior.

The city was slowly heating up. Don Curry found some cooling off in the St. Sarkis Cathedral, the former bishop's church of the Ararat Diocese. The originally medieval building had to undergo a drastic overhaul 50 years ago and therefore gives the impression of a church building from the 20th century. After leaving the cathedral, Don Curry saw the building of the Yerevan Brandy Company on the other side of a deep gorge, the home of the famous Ararat brandy. Along many prefabricated buildings and some examples of successful modern architecture, such as the town hall, Don Curry finally reached the largest Armenian church in the world: the Church of Gregory the Illuminator, which was only completed in 2001. With a mixture of traditional Armenian church forms and abstract cubism, the building appears quite idiosyncratic. The warm color of the apricot-colored stone used can immediately convince. Inside, the angular shapes continue; the large church space looks almost empty overall. The spiritual center is a popular Armenian image of the Mother of God with Child, which Don Curry had already seen as copies in several other churches.

At Republic Square, one of Tamanyan's masterpieces, Don Curry entered the Armenian History Museum, which is currently undergoing a reconfiguration and is spread over many rooms and floors. Every time he left a room, he was told where the exhibition would continue. After so much art enjoyment, he needed a break in the Tavern Yerevan restaurant, which had been recommended to him by the hotel receptionist. Now at lunchtime, he got a table in the pleasantly cool dining room in the basement without a reservation. Don Curry chose the typical Armenian yoghurt soup Spas and a chicken kebab with Bulgarian salad, as well as a homemade fig-apricot lemonade and water. The usually served cold soup was offered hot here, and the Bulgarian salad consisted of a mixture of chopped parsley, coriander, and bell peppers. Overall, Don Curry was very satisfied; he ordered a glass of particularly good Armenian red wine, which would then account for half of the total price. Now the hotel was not far away, and an extensive lunch break was in order.

After his first walk through Yerevan, Don Curry's judgment was sobering. The noticeable lack of truly historical buildings made the city almost characterless, like an arbitrary composition of ugly prefabricated buildings, chic glass facades, and a few ambitious buildings. Plus, the heat, the constant noise of traffic, and the traffic chaos despite the wide boulevards. Actually, Don Curry thought, the most beautiful thing about Yerevan is the view of Mount Ararat.

At 5:00 pm, he set off again, this time heading for another part of the city center. He found himself in an extensive pedestrian zone and a beautiful fountain in front of the 'Moskva' cinema from the 1950s, which still shows current blockbusters. Just a few steps further, one of Yerevan's oldest churches has been preserved, the Kathoghike, a tiny church with only a few square meters of space. Right next to it, it seemed necessary to build a church several times larger, in the shadow of which the Kathoghike almost disappears. However, the new church is almost empty, while people queue up at the Kathoghike to light candles...

On his further way, Don Curry discovered more amazing things. The square in front of the opera house served as a driving school for toddlers: numerous child-friendly electric cars were waiting to be tested by the little ones on the large square. Just a few steps away, one of Yerevan's oldest churches still stands, the Kathoghike, a tiny church with only a few square meters of space. Directly next to it, a much larger church had to be built, in front of which the Kathoghike almost disappears into the shadow. But the new church is almost empty, while people queue up at the Kathoghike to light candles...

On his further way, Don Curry discovered more amazing things. The square in front of the opera house served as a driving school for toddlers: numerous child-friendly electric cars were waiting to be tested by the little ones on the large square. Just a few steps away, one of Yerevan's oldest churches still stands, the Kathoghike, a tiny church with only a few square meters of space. Directly next to it, a much larger church had to be built, in front of which the Kathoghike almost disappears into the shadow. But the new church is almost empty, while people queue up at the Kathoghike to light candles...

On his further way, Don Curry discovered more amazing things. The square in front of the opera house served as a driving school for toddlers: numerous child-friendly electric cars were waiting to be tested by the little ones on the large square. Just a few steps away, one of Yerevan's oldest churches still stands, the Kathoghike, a tiny church with only a few square meters of space. Directly next to it, a much larger church had to be built, in front of which the Kathoghike almost disappears into the shadow. But the new church is almost empty, while people queue up at the Kathoghike to light candles...

On his further way, Don Curry discovered more amazing things. The square in front of the opera house served as a driving school for toddlers: numerous child-friendly electric cars were waiting to be tested by the little ones on the large square. Just a few steps away, one of Yerevan's oldest churches still stands, the Kathoghike, a tiny church with only a few square meters of space. Directly next to it, a much larger church had to be built, in front of which the Kathoghike almost disappears into the shadow. But the new church is almost empty, while people queue up at the Kathoghike to light candles...

On his further way, Don Curry discovered more amazing things. The square in front of the opera house served as a driving school for toddlers: numerous child-friendly electric cars were waiting to be tested by the little ones on the large square. Just a few steps away, one of Yerevan's oldest churches still stands, the Kathoghike, a tiny church with only a few square meters of space. Directly next to it, a much larger church had to be built, in front of which the Kathoghike almost disappears into the shadow. But the new church is almost empty, while people queue up at the Kathoghike to light candles...