Опубліковано: 04.07.2018
On the way from Rostov to the Russo-Georgian border in Vladikavkaz, the frequent police checks showed that the security situation in the Russian Caucasus region is considered much more critical than in other parts of the country. Among other things, we passed by Beslan, a city that gained sad fame 14 years ago due to a hostage-taking by Chechen terrorists at a school. Russia is divided into various administrative districts, which are divided into so-called oblasts, republics, regions, autonomous districts and cities (e.g. Moscow). These can be large or small, in the vicinity of the Caucasus they are very small and also provide various controls at each internal border…. On the day of crossing the border to Georgia, we were in particularly entertaining company. We picked up a very young Russian hitchhiker who took over communication with the "security forces" for us in many situations and was thus very helpful. The border crossing itself is located in the midst of the mighty mountain ranges of the Caucasus, a picturesque environment adorned with small mountain villages, rivers, mountains of impressive shape, and a colorful world of plants. On the Russian side of the border, everything went quickly and properly, although initially a little confusing. We can say that the Russian border authorities we came into contact with had a very relaxed and extremely friendly attitude towards us, which did not correspond to any of the common prejudices. On the Georgian side of the border, the check went just as smoothly within 30 minutes. Our hitchhiker, who crossed the border on foot, was now back on board. We could only get car insurance, which we needed to drive through Georgia, in Tbilisi due to the opening hours of the sales office (until 6 p.m.). Therefore, we were forced to drive the route to Tbilisi without insurance, which was not a problem. The slightly thinner mountain air required a few adjustments to the carburetor, and then we could continue. Since the road conditions did not allow speeds over 50 km/h in some places, we made a stop in a small town shortly after the border, checked the car & city, and immediately got into a conversation with a friendly older gentleman who offered us an apartment for the night near the city. Our initial skepticism quickly disappeared when we saw the apartment and its facilities. For about €5 per person, we got a fully furnished apartment with a kitchen, bathroom/shower, and WiFi, among other things. Since we were quite exhausted from the bureaucracy and waiting at the border crossing, this decision turned out to be the best of the day.
The road to Tbilisi was indescribably beautiful. The road roughly headed south, but followed the natural course of the mountains, winding up and down. The mountains and valleys of the Caucasus, as well as our luck with the weather, provided a breathtaking view. The pictures speak for themselves... When we arrived in Tbilisi, our first task, as often, was to find a place to sleep for the night. We also needed car insurance, which we found after a long search (can be purchased at the ATM of some banks...). Ultimately, our misfortune of not finding a free place to sleep spontaneously turned out to be a stroke of luck, as we found an extremely inexpensive hostel in the middle of the old town. The over 200-year-old listed building belongs to a young family who use part of their multi-storey apartment to accommodate guests. Thanks to their sympathy and warmth, we spent six days with them and enjoyed the family atmosphere. A rich breakfast, cooked meals, and snacks distributed throughout the day were included for about €5 per day. Regarding Tbilisi, we can first of all say that we were both not there for the last time. The people are wonderfully relaxed, open, and there is a lively street life with cafes, pubs, and daily live music in various places and bars. In addition, the city impresses with a variety of buildings from different eras. Modern buildings, historical fortress buildings and churches, residential buildings of all ages and conditions, ... everything fits together to create a harmonious cityscape. Next time, more time will be spent on Tbilisi and all of Georgia, it's worth it!