From La Spezia through Tuscany and the Marche to Ancona by bike. 24.8.24

I've spent the last few days in the Cinque Terre. So the tour to La Spezia also starts in the morning in Levanto.

23. 08 24 Levanto-> Rio Maggiore ->La Spezia ->Viareggio. 80km 650hm. To save some elevation, I take the train from Levanto towards La Spezia. With my large backpack, I can't fit in front of the bike storage area in the carriage, so I want to leave the bike standing in the aisle again, but the train attendant objects. I get off in Rio Maggiore. This is the southernmost of the five villages. Deliveries are also made here at this time. To prevent delivery vans from blocking each other, there is a traffic management service. And then real handwork is called for; everything is transported through the alleyways with a hand truck. The town is still in the shade at 23 degrees. At Bar Nonna Vittoria, I have to pay €7.50 for a latte macchiato and croissant, which is double the price. From the harbor, I explore the pretty little town on foot. Here too, the colorful houses are charmingly situated in the small bay. Now the ascent on the bike begins. Here in the village, it is particularly steep, and I have to zigzag to get up at all. After the cemetery, it gets easier, and on the SP 370, the incline is manageable. Before the tunnel at the pass, I have breakfast with a nice view. After the tunnel, I briefly ride to Biassa and then back to the main road, enjoying a leisurely descent into La Spezia. From here, it's very clear that La Spezia is a port city. A huge cruise ship and two warships immediately catch the eye. I also see many cranes and containers in the port facilities. I continue straight along the main road until I reach the fountain in the pedestrian zone. I find a seamstress. The Asian-looking woman in the seemingly chaotic one-room workshop works quite fast. After serving two other customers, she repairs my backpack for €3. Now I still look for a protector for the display of my camera, that I have to cut myself more importantly, and practically, as the film is matte. I will need to find something else for that. I would also like to refill my gas supply for the stove, but the driver I speak to at the gas station is not really willing to help. After only 100 ml in the bottle, he stops filling it. With a lot of traffic, I pass through industrial areas over a small hill to the Fiume Magra. Here, I take a lunch break and nap at Oasi di Arcola. It's already nearly four, and I still have 45 km to my set destination. So I need to step it up. In between, I need to refill drinking water; while doing this, I discover an old settlement with really beautiful trees in Marina Sarzana. In Massa, one lido follows another. And everything is full. Is there really that many people wanting to lie side by side on the beach? Around 5 pm, I at least manage to dip into the water at a free beach. The views from the bridges to the mountains are beautiful. I also take photos at Pinola in Marina di Pietrasanta. Today I want to camp wild, but it will hardly be possible near the beach. After shopping at Penny, I drive into a dirt road and find a spot in an open field. Unfortunately, I overlooked that the path is covered with very prickly burdocks. I've already encountered these nasty things in Croatia and fear the worst. And indeed, as soon as I park the bike, both tires go flat. Tomorrow, no patch will help; the spiky things are stuck around the bike in the tire. In the beautiful sunset, I pitch my tent and cook a ready meal: minestrone, with pasta. In a phone call with Linda, I can share my frustration.

24. 08. 24 Viareggio-> Pisa->Caprona 42 km 30hm. I pack everything onto the bike and push it over this cursed dirt path to the road. In the process, the tube is bulging out of the bike and blocking the rear wheel. But that doesn't matter now, as presumably both tubes have so many holes that I could never fix them. Luckily, I have two tubes with me, although one still has holes from the descent from Petit San Bernardo. So I patch the tube and then thoroughly inspect the tires for thorns. This takes over two hours. Thus, I reach Bar Argentina in Vareggio. Today my breakfast set only costs €2.50 again. The bike shop next door no longer exists; however, there is another one around the corner. The dealer only wants to sell me one tube at first since he has no more left for himself. But he can't sell me a patch kit either, so he finally gives me the second tube. I ride to the beach, where I had actually picked my destination yesterday. I dip into the water and try to enjoy it. My daily goal towards San Gimignano will not be reached today. Now follows a section that is quite green and leads through a dune landscape. I like that. At the end, at a picnic spot, I can finally have breakfast at 1:30 pm. My water supply is out, and all three public water taps in Migliarino are closed. I can only refill my supply at a dripping tap in the large bus parking lot in front of Pisa. Passing through stands, I reach the leaning tower. A skilled photographer captures my attempt to hold it up straight again. I get a ticket for the cathedral and later also for the tower. All visits are scheduled at 15-minute intervals. This way, there aren't too many tourists at once in the attractions. I can still remember my first visit in the 80s in Irmi's Ford Granada. The rounds in the ascent of the leaning tower feel just as Eirich as before.
At 7 pm, I cycle out of the city to find a camping spot by the Fiume Arno in Caproma. A few steps lead to the dike, and behind it is a beautiful spot with a view of a large tree and the sunset. Perfect! I’ll stay here. Unfortunately, two cars come from behind via an access road looking to party. I hope it doesn't last too long.