'San Sebastian, heaven on earth from the first impression,' I sent this message to a friend shortly after my arrival, and three days later I have nothing to add to this description.
San Sebastian (Basque: Donostia) was the highlight of this trip, and I had scheduled an extra day for it. Perhaps a bit presumptuous to rest so soon after a day of hiking, but it was worth it, especially since the weather was perfect.
And how does one start the day on a morning after a 27 km trek? Right, with a two-and-a-half-hour city tour! The guide, Oscar, proudly recounted the Golden Age of the city at the beginning of the 20th century, before Franco, before ETA. Similar to Biarritz, names like Queen Isabella II, Tsar Nicholas II, Mata Hari, and Hemingway came up.
This weekend, the city also hosted a film festival, and recalling the glorious days, people looked forward to the appearance of Cate Blanchett and Johnny Depp on the red carpet.
After a millennium of architects of the West working on religious buildings and castles, the 19th century ushered in the era of secular buildings. A design language needed to be found for parliaments, train stations, and libraries. Next to the Grand Hotel, another utilitarian building dominated the spa towns, the resorts of the rich and powerful: the casino. Interestingly, the appearance and central location of the gambling establishments matched the era and resembled those in Arcachon, Biarritz, and San Sebastian. The casino in San Sebastian now serves as a monumental town hall. Another large casino was demolished and replaced by a modern cultural pavilion.
A considerable temptation on the pilgrimage route: gambling and dream beaches, even though the city experiences 200 rainy days a year. The third temptation was the food. San Sebastian has the second most Michelin stars in the world, after Kyoto.
The Basque pintxos were artistically arranged bar food with fresh ingredients, often featuring fish or seafood. Additionally, the Basque Country was known for cheesecake and other desserts.
I couldn't resist a sin on my last evening in San Sebastian. I ordered a pintxos with caramelized onions and foie gras. And it was very, very delicious, sorry!
