Croatia Part 2: Many small islands

28.04.21 Wednesday, Brseč, Istria. I checked the weather reports again during the night, and my decision is made: I'm heading south. There should be sun and 10⁰C more there. So I'm skipping the island of Cres and starting island hopping with Murter near Sibenik. The drive goes around Rijeka on the highway. Then I drive on country roads at a speed of 60 and 80km from place to place. But there are no traffic lights and it's going well. Short break with a city tour in Senj and up into the mountains to the highway. I've never driven on such an empty motorway before, no other car in front of me for minutes. After Zadar, I pay 10€ for the piece and steer towards the drawbridge to Murter. In the chosen bay of Koromršnica, two campers are already standing and I greet them friendly. Constantin (Venix) has caught hapuni fish while diving and it goes on the grill. The necessary firewood is quickly found together. Sandra and the Viennese family with Juli and Oliver and the children, Bruno and Emil, have been there for a long time too. To finish off, a Pastis.

29.04.21 Thursday, Murter. Breakfast in the sun on the beach without freezing! I cycle around the northern part of the island. In front of the church of Jezera, an 80-year-old man tells me some things in Croatian and I even understand. In Tisno, I ask for a rapid antigen test: it is only available at the hospital in Sibenik. Well then, no problem. (Actually, it is mandatory, I should have taken care of it earlier). I ride along the almost empty campsites along the east coast to Betina. About 22 years ago was our last family vacation with Willi and his family. But I only recognize the bridge in Tisno, in Betina there are no memories, too bad. Giant yachts are anchored here, they are surely worth millions. On the west coast, the road becomes smaller and the water shines in bright shades of blue. But I can't fully enjoy it, construction noise and the cool wind often disturb. But where I have to push the bike, I find a nice picnic spot. From Camp Kosirina, I then ride on the road. But it goes steeply uphill, so I get sweaty again and reach bathing temperature. Bruno is happy with the small toy boat I found and we play Frisbee.

April 30th, 2021 Friday, Murter. Today I discover the next coast, island, and bay nearby. I only walk 5km and yet I'm on the road all day, go swimming 2x, enjoy the sun, take lots of photos, and fight my way through the undergrowth on the way to Pudarica. In the evening, I play the guitar, we eat the fish caught by Constantin again and sit by the campfire for a long time.

May 1st, 2021 Saturday, Murter. Another round of Frisbee with Bruno and I drive inland to the upper three waterfalls of the Krka. There is only video surveillance here, but access is free. The first view of Fall No.3, Manojlovac, from the canyon edge is already great. It gets exciting down below, where I explore the paths around the old mill. There is an old hiking trail that leads behind the rocky pass to the lookout point for Fall No.2. It is marked, but little used and difficult to find in the upper part. But I make it through and walk past the large Roman arches back to the car along the road. The Pillendreher is much smaller, something children have discovered and I watch it for a long time as it tries to roll and bury a pill up the hill. And right next to it, a turtle sits in the grass. I only look at the Burnum amphitheater from the road. They charge 10€ for it. Better to continue to Krka Fall No.1, Bisulica buk. The mighty fall roars and sprays a lot, and it's quite cool at its foot. I follow the marked trail downstream through blackberries and find a connection from the last hamlet Bjelobrk through the forest to the car in Bruze. It actually exists, although it is not marked on OSM. Alternatively, I would have walked over the railway tracks. I record the new version of Winnetou and drive up to the heights before Knin. Today we have the rest of the fish with lentil vegetable from yesterday and a dark, heavily cloudy sky. I go to bed early, but before that, I have a phone call with my loved ones at home.

May 2nd, 2021 Sunday before Knin. The clouds are still hanging, but the weather forecast promises sun from 4 pm. I first visit the fortress (30 Kuna). You can move very freely and nothing is heavily secured. I am the only visitor for a long time. Then I fill up with water and groceries and drive as far as possible into the mountains. I want to climb Mount Badanj. Since the path is long, I decide to drive up via Vrpolje. I reach an altitude of 350 meters, then the path becomes too bad. So I start hiking. After an hour, I reach the main hiking trail and realize that I could have driven much further up here. The next hour is boring, only the police are coming downhill and briefly ask about me. From the alpine meadows, it becomes beautiful again and on the last climb, I even meet 3 hikers. At the top, the clouds have disappeared and I have a great panoramic view to the sea and Dinara, at 1831m, which still has snow. I go down the direct way. With the navigation system, I follow a track, but I can't make it out. But the terrain is not difficult. In a deep cave, a dole has disappeared and screams loudly. Later, I climb over a small snake. It doesn't move at all and its eyes look dead. I check with a stick and the snake briefly attacks it and disappears. Further down, right in my way, I suddenly see tanks and a jeep driving away. What should I do? Have they already seen me? Why are they here? I decide to walk straight towards them with my yellow vest on. Nothing moves, the tanks are abandoned and partially burned out. Now I stay on the road, wouldn't there be any mines lying here? I reach the car again through meadows and forests around 7 pm. That was 22km and 900 altimeters. Now I just have to find a nice place to stay overnight. Behind Knin, it goes up to the high plateau, where I will have sun early tomorrow morning.

May 3rd, 2021 Monday, Bobodol near Knin. The sun rises at 6 am and I'm there. I work on my blog until it's warm enough to have breakfast in shorts. I drive through the countryside to the Krka National Park. Above the Oziđina Cave, I park the bike and the cave is immediately closed. There are numerous bats in the back area who actually want to sleep. It smells strongly of their feces. Here I could descend to the waterfall, but I read in the travel guide that the hike from the island of Visovoc to here is particularly beautiful. So I drive to the island, walk up, and ride back down with the bike. The view of Visovac in the blue lake of Krka is really beautiful, but the path is rather exhausting and boring. I can't make much of the loop over the wetland. It's idyllic at Roški slap, how the unused boats lie in front of the waterfall. Now I actually have to pay admission (80 Kuna) for the whole day, that's okay. There are 600 steps to the cave, then I cycle up again and with each staircase, the view of the small natural water steps changes. After the way across the height, I enjoy the downhill ride to the island again. It's already 2 pm when I pack the bike back onto the car and drive to the Lozovac entrance. The road leads steeply down to the Čikola Canyon. Normally, it's time for lunch, but time is running out. Normally, everything is always crowded with tourists here and the 3km circular route is one-way. But today I may encounter 100 visitors. Since a bridge is being repaired, I can't walk in a circle, but have to go back and forth. I take my time, let my feet dangle, and enjoy looking at everything twice. I leave the national park punctually at 7 pm and find another parking space with a great view near the cemetery. I enjoy my SU with a view of the Krka Lake Prokljansko with poppies in the foreground. That's why I'm cooking very late and the zucchini are still half raw. That's why it will be an restless night.

May 4th, 2021 Tuesday before Šibenik above the Prokljansko Lake. The sun wakes me up before 6 am. After writing my diary entry, I explore Šibenik by bike and on foot. Narrow streets and some stairs. Everything built in light gray stones. Few large squares, only the modern one in front of the old town. There is such good music to listen to here, but it's so bright that I can't stand it without sunglasses. I ask the mailman where I can buy a guitar string. He sends me to an electrician, but I have a hard time finding it. But the electrician has the correct address. I have even walked past the store before. The beach is not nice here, only the view of the city from there. I drive further with the car. Breakfast break with a view of the small island of Krapanj. Then cycling around Primošten. The water is already warmer here. Unfortunately, the sun disappears, but it comes back orange when I drive up to the viewpoint with the new Madonna after the city tour. Today I eat earlier and fry the zucchini all the way through. I sit for a long time with a beer at the lookout point and take way too many photos. The colors constantly change and the lights come on! The bats fly around me. Beautiful!

May 5th, 2021 Wednesday, Primošten. Breakfast below the Madonna. I briefly look into the port of Rogoznica. But the noise of shipbuilding drives me away. The tower of Marina makes me stop for a photo, there is digging all around. I visit Trogir briefly by bike, but it's better to walk through the alleys. The portal of the Cathedral of St. Lawrence has been freshly renovated. A carrier's loin cloth has actually slipped over the centuries under the naked Eva, and you can see the beginning of the penis in the pubic hair. Who knows what the sculptor was thinking. The idyll is briefly disturbed by a landing plane, Split airport is nearby. In the bay of Kastel Gomilica, I want to swim, plan my route further, and rest. But I don't get to rest, a digger starts up behind me, and there is also a construction site around the castle. In general, there is a lot of construction work going on here. The noise drives me away twice more in Split: vacuum cleaners and pressure washers are used. I park outside again and cycle to the old town on the E8. Again, there is lots to see and stroll around. I find the sculptures by Ivan Meštrović by myself and many other motives, including a series of pictures about the Balkan War, which glorifies war. I cook my dinner on the beach of Podstrana with a beautiful cloud/light show over Split. It's too lively here to spend the night. I still want to drive into the mountains, but the road to Gata is closed. So I end up in the dark in an old factory

Yesterday evening I discovered on the map that there is a via ferrata. I drive towards Omis and meet a German couple, with children, who have already done the via ferrata. So I now have an idea of where the start is, but after I ride my bicycle there, I still search for a while. Another couple joins me and together we find the start of the via ferrata. The route is well laid out and offers a beautiful view of the old town and the sea the whole time. I take a break at 11 am. I have a video conference with the men's group. The route ends at the fortress for the descent, I choose the easy way. Back at the bike, I ride through the town and back to the car, and first take a swim. I drive towards Split to inquire about the ferry connection. Unfortunately, the stand has been moved again when I arrive and the ferry is gone. So I still don't know if I can take the bike on the passenger ferry. I cook at the western beach and set up the tent at the eastern beach.

May 10th, Monday, Bol. I wake up early and despite that, I miss the ferry because I remember the departure time wrong. But there is another opportunity this afternoon. So I hike to Mount Vidova Gora (778m), the highest one here, as planned. The first half of the way is still easy, then the sun and I start to sweat. But the view is fantastic. At the top, other tourists arrive by car, but on the descent, I only meet another walking couple. Unfortunately, my solar panel doesn't work in the heat, so I ask in the restaurant for a charging option, and then it works again at the beach. Another cyclist with minimal luggage passes by. We exchange briefly. I pick up the charger and drive to the ferry. Now it's decided: I can't take the bike on board. Another man comes with a bicycle in a transport bag from the ferry: That's how it works! If I want to go to Hvar, I have to go to Supetar first and then ride through Split. I decide not to go to Hvar tomorrow but to take the ferry to Sumartin and cycle back to the car. I spend the evening relaxed on the beach.

May 11th, Tuesday, Bol on Brac. In the first light of day, I set up the tent and take advantage of the coolness of the morning to conquer the first altitude meters. I have breakfast halfway up the mountain. When it gets warm, I'm already at the top. I catch the ferry at 11 am without any problems. I even have time to drive to a viewpoint. Today the ferry is fuller, but it's still possible to keep a good distance. A group of motorcyclists is also on board. Arriving in Makarska, I first cycle to the car, it's still parked there, and I pack my luggage into it. So the island hopping turned out to be shorter than planned. But I got a great impression of Brac.

End of Part 2