2024-11-10 Trekking to EBC via 3 Passes Part 2: Cho La and Renjo Pass

11.10.24 Lobuche 4930m -> Zonglhla 4825m, 6.4km, 3:30h. I was able to sleep this night with many interruptions. And I also have an appetite again. My weakness was probably just the sum of the adverse circumstances and not Corona. When I have breakfast at 8 AM, we are already the last ones in the house. I really like the path today. A small trail that follows the slope at the same height. At the bend, from one valley to another, there is a great view of Ama Dablam. We lay in the sun and take a long break. The helicopters fly by every 10 minutes. On the further path, there is a turquoise shimmering lake in the valley. After crossing the stream, we only have 60 altitude meters left to Zonglha Inn. I sit in the sun on a garden chair and wait for lunch. During this, I could fall asleep again. I take a nap later on the grass behind the house. I wake up because I'm cold. Clouds have gathered in no time. I hope that they will disappear again by tomorrow. In the dining room, I meet Marianna and Paolo. I play a round of cards with Paolo and can use their WiFi. The dining room is fully occupied today and the stove is heating well. It is already a strain to go to the cold bed.

11.11.24 Zonglha 4820m-> Cho La Pass 5368m->Gokyo 4760h, 12.4km, +830hm, -900hm, 8/10h. It was agreed that Shikhar would knock on my door at 5:15 AM. However, I don’t have to wait for the knock because I wake up by myself at this time. I pack my backpack and go to the dining hall. I am the first one here with the guides. No sign of Shikhar. I let him wake up. At 6:30 AM we set off. The section is still in the shade and is ice cold. Unfortunately, my gloves do not warm enough, but after an hour, the sun comes out. The incline of the path varies; still, I progress well. Shikhar coughs so much that he has to rest on the way. I really feel sorry for him. Below the pass, there is a large snowfield. With spikes, it is wonderful to cross. The last rocky part is secured with cables, but I continue to use my poles. After three hours we reach the pass. Under the prayer flags, 30 people sit in the sun enjoying the view. At least it is wide enough here to avoid crowding. Shortly after 10 AM, we begin the steep descent. There are two more climbs until we can follow the stream to Dragnag. I eat vegetable soup with rice with the guides and afterwards take a nap in the sun on the front porch. At 2 PM, the clouds roll in and we continue. To reach Gokyo, we need to cross the glacier, which resembles a rocky field. In the middle, there are several lakes surrounded by icy walls of the glacier. Some are open, others are frozen. The four-kilometer path is really strenuous due to the constant ups and downs. Low clouds cover the peaks intermittently. For us, the sun has already disappeared behind a mountain and it is getting quite cold. The final ascent is steep again and requires all of our strength. Gokyo surprises with really big houses that look quite nice. Our lodge, Mountain View, is again plain and simple. I get a corner room with a lake view. It has even been warmed slightly by the last rays of the sun. In the dining room, the stove is lit and I chat for a long time with a guide who even speaks Japanese and read my book. After dinner, the stove cools down again, so I prefer to go to bed. Under the sleeping bag and the blanket, I write in my diary until 8:15 PM. That was again a full, albeit exhausting day, with beautiful views of the mountain world.

12.11.24 Gokyo 4760m, Rest day? Gokyo Ri 5367m, +-600hm, 3h/4:30. The night was one of the better ones. My feet warmed up relatively quickly, and I was able to fall asleep fast. The temperature fluctuations of my body during the night are interesting. First, I am cold, then okay, then too hot and have to open my sleeping bag; by 4 AM, I have cooled down again and must wrap myself up once more. Yes, and in between, I still have to pee quite often. That totals at least six sleep interruptions. Yes, and that was a good night. By now, I have no more shortness of breath at this altitude and can fall asleep well again and again. At 6 AM I enjoy the view from the window to the lake. At a quarter past seven, I go out and want to go to the dining hall, but it is still locked. After a walk along the lakeshore, I receive muesli with warm milk and ginger tea at 8 AM. I then set off for the lookout mountain Gokyo Ri at 9 AM. The sun is shining nicely, but the wind is stronger and chilly. I need two hours for the ascent. Several times I have to overcome myself not to stop after just a few meters. The color of the lake changes the higher I get. It becomes bluer and bluer. And more snow-capped peaks appear all around. There is also a large German group on the way. Upon arriving at the summit, we help each other with photography. I stay on the summit for over an hour despite the wind. I descend quickly with only short photo stops. After fried potatoes with egg for lunch, I sleep for a whole hour this time. But at sunset, I venture out again to the lake. And I take a round around the place. The stove is ignited again and I sit with people from Boston until dinner. Shikhar is making plans today. He wants to go all the way to Thame tomorrow. I am concerned that it is too far. The plan definitely states something else. Let’s see, for now, I must sleep.

13.11.24 Gokyo 4750m-> Renjo La Pass 5417m -> Thame 3790m, 20.6km, +745hm, -1709hm, 10h. Breakfast is ordered for 5:30 AM, but I wake up at 5:40 AM. Shortly after, Shikhar actually knocks on the door. At 6:30 AM we set off at minus temperatures. We walk above the lake in the shade while the peaks are already basking in the sun above. About 20 people are out in small groups at a safe distance together. Depending on where you take a break, you overtake each other. I see a group of Himalayan pheasants right on the path again. I am glad that we quickly reach the sun, and I can at least take off my down jacket. Later I also walk in shorts, though the wind is very chilly today. The path is easy to walk, there is only a little debris. In the back, overlooking the Gokyo lake, rises Mt Everest. Before the last steep section lies a small snowfield, which we cross without spikes. Hikers from both sides meet again. The space is sufficient so that everyone can enjoy the great view in peace. I also meet a few Germans. For me, this is the last pass; now the return journey to Lukla begins. I actually want to enjoy this, but Shikhar insists on going all the way to Thame. This annoys me and somewhat takes away my joy on the further path. The descent is designed like a large staircase and is in the shade. I am glad that we started the three passes route in the east. This way, we had the sun at our backs in the morning during the climbs. If you walk the other way, you are inevitably in the shade much more, which is very uncomfortable given the cool temperatures. The staircase ends at a green mountain lake. Now we cross a high plateau that reminds me of Scotland, and at its end lies another beautiful lake. Now it goes down steeper to another area, where both areas are separated by walls. There is also a derelict sheep hut. I would like to linger longer here and enjoy the beautiful view and the warmth of the sun. At 12:50 PM we already reach Lungdhen. For lunch, I eat noodle soup with little vegetables. I can't quite nap in the sun because a small boy next door wants to climb a rock with his grandmother. At 2 PM we continue. It’s nine kilometers to Thame. The afternoon clouds are gathering and we push through. After Marulung, we cross a normal bridge to the other side of the river. The Bhote Koshi rushes through the valley and gets larger. The settlements are getting larger too. We cross a new suspension bridge over a side valley. Right behind it, the first dwarf pines grow and the first stupas become visible. Now prayer wheels stand along the way again. In Thametang, there is a military post. One last ascent before it steeply goes down to Thame. Thame is in a cloud. We check in at the Paradise Lodge at 16:30. Here, there are power outlets in the room again. In the cozy dining room, the stove is on. There are also four Germans, with whom I do not make contact as I do not find them pleasant. After dinner, I sit again with the book by the stove but then quickly go to bed and sleep well again, as my feet warm up faster today. No wonder after this unintentional marathon stretch.

14.11.24 Thame 3790m->Namche Bazar 3450m, 11km, +370hm,-856hm, 4:00/5:30h.

Since 4 AM I am well-rested, doze until 5:30 AM and then write in my diary which I forgot about yesterday because I was too tired. For breakfast, I sit with the Germans from the south, who then in conversation with me are quite nice. They give me the tip to visit the monastery in the area. Shikhar also accepts the suggestion. For 250 rupees, a young man opens the door to the inner chambers and also provides some explanations. Everything is in shades of red and gold. There are seats for about 12 monks and an elevated place for the first monk. Next to it are various Buddha figures, altars with candles and food. At the seating places, there are various instruments: two large drums, large conch shells, pipes, and bells. The books on the lecterns are very narrow and long. One wall has niches with hundreds of books. Unfortunately, I am not allowed to take photos inside. On the descent back to the lodge, we encounter the family with three children. They had already caught my eye at the guesthouse. I find it brave to travel to Nepal with three small children. Just after 10 AM, we shoulder our backpacks and wander down the Bhote Koshi valley. A high new suspension bridge leads over the raging river to the other side. On the rock wall, there are three large religious paintings. Now there are also large pine trees again, and in the settlements, green grass and flowers are scattered. We walk towards the snow-covered Thamserku 6623m, which rises behind Namche Bazar. In the settlement of Thamo, a new wide staircase is being constructed. Three people are chiseling the stones with hammer and chisel, three more are setting them. What a laborious task with no more tools than shovel and crowbar. We pass several stupas. One is currently being repainted. In Theso, Shikhar makes a stop for lunch at a very small restaurant. Outside in the sun, I eat botanical bread with an omelet. An hour later we reach Namche Bazar. Just before the town, a helicopter is dropping off a load in a net. Also, for the return trip, it attaches another load. At Hill 10, I receive the same room number 111 again. The next hour, the sun shines beautifully inside through the window. I book flights to India and my accommodation near the airport in Delhi. Then I read all the messages from the last 14 days and upload pictures online. In the room, it is now really cold again. In the dining room, it is warmer, but also restless. My dinner is really delicious today and well-seasoned. I can also briefly talk to Ulla, although the connection is very poor today. Now it is already 10 PM, my feet are slowly warming up, and I hope to fall asleep quickly.

15.11.24 Namche Bazar 3450m-> Lukla 2850m, 18.5km +727hm -1315hm, 6:08/8:40h. The return journey to the airport begins at 7:45 AM with the steep stairs below the hotel. Here are the market stalls and the simple shops that are more used by the locals. Donkeys are loaded for the return transport and many groups are on their way. It is not easy to set my own pace, as there is hardly any space to overtake. In tight spots, we have to stand aside repeatedly and let large groups of animals pass. I take only a few photos because I already took them on the way here. The way here was much more exciting than now on the return. At the first large suspension bridge, someone is actually preparing to bungee jump. I wait at the bridgehead until he plunges into the depths. We meet porters with incredibly large loads repeatedly, sometimes so bulky that they can hardly pass us. At the checkpoint, there are definitely 50 people sitting; we find a gap and do not have to wait long. In the valley, it is getting greener. There are vegetable fields. We go by the waterfall until we reach Phakding. Here it was my first overnight stay; today we stop for lunch. After the huge portion of noodles with yak meat, I talk with Ulla and try to take a nap. The dogs are dozing in the sun. From here, there are still three kilometers, which feel harder for me now than on the way here. Four monkeys jump through the tree tops above us. Below the path, I can hear children playing, but I can't see them. The long shopping street of Lukla leads me to the Paradise Lodge, which is right next to the runway. Here, there is free Wi-Fi but no power outlets, which I find illogical! I get a triple room for myself for two nights, since my flight is not until the day after tomorrow. To my horror, I realize that I left my pant legs behind during lunch. I find the number for the Royal Sherpa Lodge online and ask another guide to call there, as Shikhar is not here at the moment. It seems to work out that someone will bring the pant legs tomorrow! Until then, I will have to walk around in long underwear or buy new pants. For dinner, I ordered yak schnitzel, which is served steaming hot. On the side are delicious steamed vegetables. I have really missed that. I also chat with some Viennese who can show me a picture of Everest Base Camp. Actually, there's just a memorial stone to be seen there, so I did not miss anything. After the phone call with Linda, I fall into bed tired and fall asleep with warm feet!

16.11.24 Lukla, Rest day. I have breakfast at 7:30 AM with a serving of porridge with banana, and I think it's too little. As long as it is still cool, I stay inside, reading and sorting pictures. The internet is too slow to upload them directly to the blog. With many stops, I circle the landing strip once. It’s already busy for flight traffic. Partially, two helicopters and two planes take off or land within 10 minutes. All planes handle the unusual and short
runway well. It is sloped, beginning on the incline and ending before the mountain. At the airport, everything that comes here must be carried by people or animals. I have to change my room. It is a good switch, from the dark triple room to a double bed on the sunny side with mountain view. Before lunch, I go to town and follow the schoolchildren who have quickly bought sweets during their break. Their school is located above the town. They all stream back from all directions in their black and red school uniforms. Now I am really hungry and look forward to the rice curry. Around 3 PM, Shikhar wants to pick me up for volleyball, so I have a lot of time for an extensive lunch break. However, Shikhar doesn’t come. Instead, I get a call from the travel agency telling me to reconfirm my return flight. At the counter at the airport and later in the office at the airport, it is crowded. I think some have to change their flight times. I also get my turn, hold my phone with the ticket up, and the man checks off something in his documents. Back at the lodge, I read in the new book that I found in the lodge: 'Samarkand' and write a farewell letter for Shikhar:
Dear Shikhar!
Thank you very much for the wonderful time together. With your help, I was able to experience this grand landscape on the long trek. You always found the right path, secured me a place in the lodge, and provided meals. Thank you.
On some days, I wished that you would tell more about the landscape and culture.
A tip for the future: Learn good English and engage more with your guests.

All the best for the future. Uwe.

17.11.24 Lukla->Kathmandu. At 6 AM, I wake up. The first helicopters fly and there is a feeling of departure in the house. When I wipe the dew from the window, I see the full moon over the orange glowing Khatang 6853m. It is clear visibility. I pack and go for breakfast at 7 AM. Now I should actually hear the first planes, but there are only helicopters. The flight radar also shows no activity. I wait in the lodge until the first plane arrives. Without seeing Shikhar again, I go to the airport and have to find my way around there. Everyone is jostling at the counter again. Apparently, two planes from Summit Air are on their way. I receive my boarding pass, but both planes are not for me. So I wait at the cold gate. Unfortunately, in the rush, I forgot my book in my backpack. I hope my phone battery lasts long enough for me to pass the time. However, there is plenty to see. When the next Summit Air flight lands at 10 AM, it goes very fast. Quickly to the bathroom and then board in a conga line. I spontaneously sit down on the left in a single seat; the right seat would've had a better view of the mountains. However, to ensure I enjoy the mountains as well, the pilot makes three loops extra before Kathmandu :). Landing at 11:20 AM. The luggage cart is attached to the bus at the back. This time, no one is waiting for me with a sign. I need help with the Wi-Fi and receive a message from the travel agency instructing me to take a taxi. It costs 1000 Rs, which I will get back later. In Thamel, there is traffic jam, and I walk the last 500m to Exotik House. The boss is on the phone and wants to sell me Chitwan and Pokhara for €550 or rafting and Chitwan for €250. I say no because I want to organize it myself. Now I first go to the WanderThirst hostel and take a shower. On the way to the bus station, I see small restaurants. There, I eat a portion of noodles after I bought the bus ticket to Chitwan. I repack my backpack so that I can leave the room tomorrow morning without disturbing the others. With the first bottle of beer in almost three weeks, I sit on the dry floor and get connected with Johanna and Linda on the phone at the same time. Then it’s already 10 PM again by the time I go to sleep.

Tomorrow we continue in a new post about the jungle