#123 The tourist destination of the future: the Albanian Riviera

May 7-9, 2022: Livadhit Beach, Jale Beach, Gjipe Beach, Dhermi Beach, Drimadhe Beach

J. The coast between Saranda and Vlora is known for its beauty and is often called the Albanian Riviera. High, impressive mountains stretch down to the sea and occasionally pour into white beaches with turquoise water. It is said to be particularly beautiful north of Himara, so we take the panoramic road that winds through the mountains and along the coast and stop at the first beach after Himara.

Here is also Old Himara, an ancient, decayed settlement on a mountain. Most of the houses are ruins, but some have been renovated and are inhabited again. From up here you have a magnificent view of the mountains and gorges and the beach.

From Livadhit Beach we take a hike along the coast to the next larger beach, Jalë Beach. On the way, we pass two beautiful deserted small beaches. The white stones almost blind us and the crystal clear, turquoise water invites us to swim. The water along the entire coast is so clear that we could still see the bottom well below us even at a depth of about four meters. The water reminds me a lot of a swimming pool.

The water is clear and the beach is white, but unfortunately there are only stone beaches along the whole coast. This makes bathing a bit more difficult, at least getting in and out, especially since the strong current hurls the stones against our feet with each wave at some beaches. People with sensitive feet might prefer to use water shoes, but Florian always made it into the water and back out barefoot. My tactic for getting out: just swim backwards towards the beach until you hit the bottom.

Not only we know that the coast here is so beautiful, but also the tourism industry. Hotels, restaurants, beach bars, and some campsites share the narrow space on the long beaches. The season seems to be starting soon, because every building is being cleaned or renovated. Some look like they have just woken up from a ten-year hibernation (probably more like a 2.5-year corona sleep). We also see many hotels, restaurants, and beach bars being built, and there seem to be construction sites everywhere. Even the road is being rebuilt, so when we leave the beach, we suddenly find ourselves facing some hills of fresh earth. Luckily, some of the construction workers help us push our car out onto the beach.

We continue to Gjipe Beach. This beach can only be reached by a 20-minute walk on a very bumpy, rocky path (or by a 4-wheel-drive on the same path) and therefore has no hotels or construction sites; there are only two beach restaurants here. But not only for that reason, the beach here is particularly beautiful. It is located at the mouth of a canyon that can be hiked into from the beach. The high cliffs beautifully frame the beach. In the canyon, the high rock walls become closer and closer, and as you go further into the canyon, it becomes greener, more forested, and cooler.

On the beach, as everywhere in Albania, wild camping is allowed and several groups have set up their camps on the beach for the weekend. On Sunday evening, they set off with their 4-wheel drives, and we could see how the cars with weaker all-wheel drive got stuck deeper and deeper in the sand/gravel, how the stronger cars unsuccessfully tried to pull them out, and how quite a few men pushed the car out of the beach in the end.

The bumpy, rocky track was mastered better by some cars than by others. We were faster back at the parking lot on foot than some of the cars, and we were invited for an energy drink by the large group of men from Kosovo. They still had a 6-8 hour drive ahead of them to Kosovo.

The next day, we tested the next two major beaches (Dhermi and Drimadhe) and realized that there are even more construction sites here than at the beaches further south.

After one last swim in the sea, we set off over the Llogara Pass, which separates the Albanian Riviera from the rest of the country. From the top, despite the rather hazy weather, there is a wonderful view along the coast to Corfu. A drive in the other direction, from north to south, must be impressive when you come out of the dense forest on the northern slope and suddenly look out over the wide, beautiful coast.

On the way down to Vlora, we discover the highway that is currently under construction and that goes through a tunnel below the pass. So the beautiful coast will soon be much more accessible from the north of the country, and the many tourists can easily reach their hotels on the beach. I'm curious what it will be like here in a few years and when Albania will become the new Croatia.

Day 206 - Total tour 15,603 km

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