Kathmandu --> Gokyo

I believe the contrast between Stockholm and Kathmandu is indescribable.

Quiet and organized meets unbelievably loud and chaotic, clean air meets smog.

Basically, I like it, at least when I'm on vacation. After a 25-hour journey, I went straight to the hotel and went to bed in the evening. The next afternoon, I treated myself to a Palak Paneer with fresh bread and a Lassi, delicious.

We continued to one of three Durbar Squares, where as a tourist you have to pay €8 admission. That doesn't sound like much, but when you know that as a tourist you have to pay €5 here, €7 there, and €6 somewhere else, you know how to handle it.
As the name suggests, it's a square, so I walk around it once and there's no ticket booth. Tourists all come from the north because that's where the corresponding district is located.
The square is nice to look at, but I didn't feel like going into the temples that day. I was still a bit tired and the next few days will surely be exhausting enough.

The next day, I was picked up in the morning and we drove to another square where, as expected, the admission fee was €8 again. This time, I didn't want to avoid paying and we also visited the museum.
A nice square with incredibly old temples, some of which are still being restored or rebuilt because many of the temples and houses were destroyed in an earthquake in 2015. Then we went to the Monkey Temple, from which you would have a good view of the city.
Well, would have, if it weren't for the smog.

The third stop was Aaryaghat, where the dead are cremated in public. Still interesting and strange at the same time, but not comparable to the ceremonies in Varanasi.
Finally, we went to a large impressive Buddha Stupa. I will probably never get used to having a guide near me and being driven everywhere, but this time there was no other way.

Day 1: Kathmandu - Lukla - Phakding

Now it was time to go to the Himalayas.
And we did, albeit not at 6am but at 10am. But I was already scared out of my mind. I didn't know that you can lose 3 liters of fluid through your palms, I was that nervous. I don't actually have a fear of flying, but I was absolutely uncomfortable with the 'airplane' and the 'airport'. Well, actually 'uncomfortable' is an understatement.
14 people, 2 pilots, 1 flight attendant, and luggage can fit in that thing. I'm sure you all know the smell of very, very, very old museums, machines, or old buildings. An airplane shouldn't smell like that. It was museum-worthy, no doubt about it. The box was swaying back and forth in the wind before I couldn't see the sky anymore after 25 minutes of flying, and all I could see in front of me was a large rock wall. But in the middle, I could see a small, steeply rising runway, so we were close to landing and already in the valley. Some Ryanair pilots could learn something from this landing, I rarely experienced such a hard landing. I have no idea how this box withstands this for years without breaking.

Day 2: Phakding - Namche Bazar

Alarm clock 6:30 am
Get up 7:00 am
Breakfast 7:30 am
Departure 8:00 am
Since it was expected to start raining around 12pm and we would be on the road for 7 hours, we left a bit too late in my opinion. I want everything, but not a wet ass in these temperatures, even if I have everything I need in case of emergency.
This stage is supposed to be one of the most exhausting, we'll see. In the end, we will have covered 11 km and climbed 1,200m, the destination is at 3,400m, Namche Bazar.
Before that, we crossed various suspension bridges, had to give way to donkeys and yaks, and overtook a lot of large groups that stopped for photos and chatting.
We continued through the still green landscape, it smelled like a forest, I felt like being in the Alps. The stairs bothered me a bit, everything is paved here and we had already climbed thousands of stairs, I hope that changes, it's bad for my knees. Actually, the last 500m were covered on regular forest ground, much better!
We reached our accommodation by 1:30 pm and it started raining at exactly 2 pm. In the evening, I had tea again (ginger) and this time a noodle soup with plenty of garlic, vegetables, and eggs.
I pass the time reading and sleeping.
Currently, my body isn't complaining yet, if this was one of the most demanding stages, it's going well, but there are still 16 days to go and several thousand meters of altitude.

Day 3
I shouldn't have written that. I woke up with neck and headache. After breakfast, we went to the viewpoint at 3,880m, my headache got worse and I didn't feel well at all. Fortunately, we quickly went back and I was able to take a nap. Due to the weather, I was denied the first view of Everest, but I'm sure there will be more opportunities. The mountains are impressive, a new peak rises behind every cloud and somewhere in between, I will pass through.
I rested for the rest of the day and hope that I will feel better tomorrow and can conquer the next stage.

Day 4: Namche Bazar - Dhole
The headache was gone, but my stomach made itself felt and I had to go to the toilet a few times at night.
Nevertheless, we started a little after 8 am. Today was supposed to be a challenging stage again. 1,200m altitude and 12km. Initially, all the hikers were stuck at a staircase in Namche Bazar and I immediately had the famous picture of the traffic jam on Everest in mind. That's part of the truth, you can't hike undisturbed here.
Then the time had come and I saw Mount Everest for the first time in perfect weather, an indescribable feeling to have this privilege.
After we had left the path towards the Basecamp and Gokyo Ri (yes, I couldn't resist and extended the tour a bit), my headache returned and I doubted for the first time whether I could endure this for another two weeks. This rollercoaster of emotions would continue at least until the night. Because I woke up sweating at 2 am with a pounding headache. My stomach wasn't feeling well either, and I had to go to the toilet a few times, in minus 2 degrees Celsius and with a headlamp. So in the morning, I took a half a paracetamol and something for my stomach. My guide told me in the beginning that I should inform him of any complaints, especially if I take medication, and that's what I did. It seems that I underestimated everything a bit...

Day 5: Dohle - Machhermo
The night was short, but we still left at 8 am.
Today's stage was supposed to be a bit 'easier' again. Surprisingly, my headache was gone, but that was also the case yesterday, so don't celebrate too soon.
What I learned from the first stages is that I have to take it even slower. I seem to automatically go too fast, at this altitude, you don't realize that you're overexerting yourself, at least I as an inexperienced hiker in the Himalayas don't notice it. So my guide goes ahead and slows me down, making sure that I drink 3 to 4 liters of water + tea every day.
The scenery and the mountains today were indescribable, new peaks piled up everywhere and you have to look up steeply to see them. At eye level, you are only looking at a rock face, gigantic.
We were on time at our next lodge after four hours. The first time above 4,000m, to be exact, 4,450m, my emotional rollercoaster continues, I feel really good. I take a stroll, enjoy the peace in the beginning snowfall, watch the yaks and horses feeding, and return to the lodge. I read my book in front of the stove while it is being supplied with dried yak dung and warms up the common room.
But I'm also warned, just now two hikers had to be flown out by helicopter and another one had to turn back, altitude sickness can happen to anyone, no matter how fit or untrained.

Day 6: Machhermo - Gokyo
Again, I woke up sweating and with a headache at night. I don't know why or why. So another half a paracetamol at night and the other half for breakfast.
I'm still thirsty and hungry, which is a good sign.
My stomach feels better, what remains are the headaches and the cold. Mentally, this could be quite a challenge.
Today, we continued, another 400m to a total of 4,780m. That will be the level of the next nights, I hope that the nighttime headaches will improve.