Round trip Weser - Ems

Round trip Weser - Ems

Small autumn tour at the end of the 2019 season

The LMN (State Association Motorboat Sports Lower Saxony) has provided various tour suggestions for download in PDF format on its website. The area: between Ems and Elbe, my home area so to speak. After my "big" Baltic Sea tour in the summer and a beach vacation without a boat, I still had some time. What do you do? Of course, another little boat trip. The weather was also good and so I made the "round trip Weser-Ems" as a small late-season autumn tour, according to "https://www.lm-n.de/haupt-navigation/toerninfo/toernvorschlaege/" (LMN tour suggestion).

The destination and turning point of the journey should be Papenburg, because I wanted to take part in a tour of the Meyer shipyard there. It should be a relaxed, quiet tour, always in small stages, no long distances, and without driving in bad weather - if possible! ;-)

On September 13th, 2019, Bremen-Lesum - Elsfleth / 20 km

The weather looked promising and off we went: departure from the home jetty on the Lesum river at 3:30 p.m. With the ebb current, the destination Elsfleth was reached after only two hours. At 5:30 p.m. everything was moored at the city dock. Right next door, or in front of the bow of the "Großherzogin Elisabeth" from the Elsflether Schulschiff-Verein:

Pictures: Due to the lack of my own photos (it was too dark), here are 18 beautiful photos to click on:

https://www.komoot.de/highlight/190103

September 14th, 2019, Elsfleth - Oldenburg / 24 km

The next morning we continued. With sunshine and 20 degrees, we set off on the short trip with the flood current on the Hunte river to Oldenburg. The 24 km were covered in just under two hours. The mooring "Am Stau" is centrally located in the middle of the city. We took a short walk to the beautiful palace square, where there is currently a flea market. I didn't buy anything, but there is also the best plum cake in all of northern Germany, I claim, at Café Leutbecher on Schlossplatz. First class!

September 15th, 2019 / Oldenburg - Kamperfehn / 32 km

Departure at 10 a.m. and 45 minutes later we passed the lock and are on the Küstenkanal. If you want to go from Oldenburg to the Küstenkanal, you have to go under the old Cäcilien bridge, a lifting bridge that had to be raised for every boat - much to the delight of the people of Oldenburg. Today the lifting bridge is raised to 1.50 m and fixed. Every boat and every inland ship can easily pass through, especially since it is still in the tidal area and the clearance height is variable due to the tide.

To be honest, the journey on the Küstenkanal is not particularly exciting, but not ugly either. You basically go straight the whole time and see greenery. The banks are lined with dense shrubs and trees. You can hardly see the traffic on the parallel federal road, you can only hear it. ;-)

It is possible to drive the entire canal in one go, but we have time and want to take a look at the Elisabethfehn Canal, which is the shortcut if you want to go to Leer. Unfortunately, you can't go all the way through it at the moment because the Osterhausen lock at the end of the canal is currently being rebuilt. Thanks to the citizens' initiative "Save the Elisabethfehn Canal!"

We only drive a short distance into the narrow, romantic canal and moor at the dock of the Boat Club Kamperfehn e.V. in Kamperfehn at 1:45 p.m. Unfortunately, the weather has become overcast and blessed us with drizzling rain, but that doesn't stop me from taking a long walk along field paths and moor dams.

September 16th, 2019, Kamperfehn - Dörpen / 41 km

At 9 a.m. we continue, turn the boat in the narrow canal that is only about 13 m wide and then head back to the Küstenkanal. The journey is familiar and relaxed. And that's how we make it to the guest dock of WSV Lehe in Dörpen at 1 p.m., right in front of the Dörpen lock. Nice, idyllic harbor in the countryside. You have to be a little careful when entering: pay attention to the small green buoy that must remain on starboard, otherwise there is a risk of getting stuck in the mud.

September 17th, 2019, Dörpen - Herbrum 15 km

The next morning doesn't bring rain anymore, but a strong breeze from the west, sometimes with gusts of wind of strength 7 (estimated). Nevertheless, we set off, pass the Dörpen lock without any problems and are on the DEK towards Papenburg.

Shortly before Herbrum, the last lock on the DEK, it becomes stormier and we decide to moor in the old arm of the Ems. There are a few docks from various water sports clubs. We moor at the EYC Lingen and are the only boat at the dock. In the afternoon, there is a surprise: suddenly the water rises by several decimeters and we can only go ashore with rubber boots. In the evening, a lady from the club comes and collects €10, in return we get electricity.

September 18th, 2019, Herbrum - Papenburg 25 km

The new morning delights us with calm winds and sunshine! So at 8 a.m. we set off to the lock and out onto the Ems! The lock is quickly passed, and I want to briefly moor at the waiting pier downstream to take care of something. The lock operator warns me over the radio: "If you stay there, you will get stuck in the mud!" And indeed, there isn't much water under the keel anymore, I can see that from the propeller wash. The depth sounder doesn't show anything anymore, probably because the sound waves can't penetrate through the gray-brown sludge that is called Ems water here, or because the soft muddy bottom doesn't reflect them, I don't know why. It stays like this almost the entire journey to Papenburg. I've never experienced anything like it. The ebb tide pushes us forward very forcefully, and by 10 a.m. we have moored at the waiting pier in front of the Papenburg sea lock. The lock is only operated at certain times, depending on the water level. We are there at the wrong time and have to wait a few hours. But at 2:05 p.m. we pass the lock, even "free of charge" because we are together with a commercial ship. Otherwise, pleasure boats have to pay €4.00 (four) each. A few minutes later we are in front of the lifting bridges in the old town, but we don't have to wait long: the bridge attendant opens them every hour at 20 minutes past. We are moored at the YC Turmkanal dock at 2:30 p.m., practically in the center of Papenburg.

September 19th, 2019 - Day in Papenburg

Visit to the Meyer shipyard. Just this much: impressive, impressive, informative. Highly recommended.

I also really liked the city. For me, it has a lot of similarities to Holland, at least that's how I imagine Holland. I haven't spent a boating vacation in Holland myself. The city had really dressed up: flowers everywhere. And the ambience on both sides of the main canal is really idyllic and inviting.

September 20th, 2019, Papenburg - Marinapark Emsland / 27 km

In the morning, I move from YC Turmkanal to the harbor of YC Papenburg in front of the lock. The reason: I want to pass the two lifting bridges in time. I wait for the lock time for the sea lock at the YCP dock. The time was set for 3:30 p.m. The lock even opened at 3:00 p.m. and a few pleasure boats trickled in. All boats from Papenburg, they knew the payment routine. Only I didn't. When and how should I pay the €4 while driving alone? The lock operator already complained over the loudspeaker. But I can't leave the boat in the lock alone. So I asked over the radio if I could pay after the lock if I moor the boat outside at the waiting pier. "Yes, that's okay too." - And that's how we did it. Four euros is not much; that's why I wonder if the effort for the port authority (or WSA) is even worthwhile. Well, never mind.

I had to wait again in front of the Herbrum lock. It seems that the lock is only operated at a certain water level and I also had to wait for a commercial ship. We then passed through the next lock, Bollingerfähr, with the "Emilie D". Then it became dark and I had to find a berth. I found one - late, but not too late - at the "Marinapark Emsland". We were moored at the guest dock at 7:45 p.m. It was already dark.

September 21st, 2019, Marinapark Emsland - YC Hase-Ems, Meppen / 31 km

The next morning is friendly again. Initially a bit damp and foggy, but then the sun rises and it clears up. I had just finished breakfast when a sleek sports boat set off with three people on board and turned into the canal in the same direction that I wanted to go. Hey, we could drive together and lock together. Thought - done, quickly cast off and follow. And indeed, at the next lock (Düthe), I caught up with the boat and we locked together. It worked just as well in the next lock, the Hilter lock. But after that, the boat in front of me probably got bored, it accelerated a bit (it was a glider) and disappeared from my sight. Too bad. So an hour later, I was alone again at the next lock (Hüntel). Okay, I'm not in a hurry, I don't want to make too many kilometers, so I wanted to stop at the next opportunity, a "safe harbor", and that was the YC Hase-Ems in Meppen. The harbor is very idyllic at the end of an Ems old arm, surrounded by greenery. A gas station is only a few hundred meters away. There I could top up with diesel fuel again. Has to be done sometimes.

September 22nd, 2019, Meppen - Lingen / 27 km

Today is Sunday. But there is no sleeping in. The sun is shining, so departure at 9:45 a.m., right after breakfast.

Unfortunately, we were "slowed down" again in front of the Meppen lock, but you have to expect that on a canal journey. At the next lock (Varnloh), it worked better, and at 2:25 p.m. we moored at "Hahnekenfähr" at YC Lingen. A long, tube-like harbor in a section of the former Hase-Ems Canal, or rather an "Old Journey" of the DEK, I don't know exactly. In any case, it's a beautiful harbor in the greenery, only a bit noisy from the traffic on the opposite expressway. - I still slept well though. And the people at YC Lingen were very nice and helpful.

September 23rd, 2019, Lingen-Hanekenfähr - MLK Marina Recke / 38 km

Departure from YC Lingen, Hanekenfähr at 10 a.m. At least this time the weather is rainy. It's only a few kilometers to the Gleesen lock. A sports boat was already at the waiting pier. I overheard on the radio that a commercial vessel is currently heading downstream in the upper section and that another inland ship is expected in the upstream direction. Well, great, maybe we can ride together upstream. So it's not worth mooring. We wait. Circles if necessary. But it took quite a while. Finally, the commercial vessel came slowly, and at 11:50 a.m. we passed the lock. - We pass the next four locks - Hesselte, Venhaus, Altenrheine, and finally Bevergen - always behind the commercial ship. The short distances in between were covered very, very slowly for some reason, so the whole thing took quite a while: Passed the last lock (Bevergen) at 5:48 p.m. After that, the commercial vessel fortunately continues up the DEK, and I can finally turn into the MLK and speed up a bit. That was necessary too, because it was getting dark. But we made it to Marina Recke just in time with the last daylight, at MLK km 13.

September 24th, 2019, Marina Recke - Bad Essen / 50 km

Departure from the small marina harbor in the morning, out onto the Mittelland Canal. The canal offers a generous width and therefore a relaxed, calm ride for pleasure boats. The inland vessels travel at our speed (12 km/h), so there are no overtakers, only occasional oncoming traffic that you give the right of way by strictly keeping to the right. This way you can "make distance" without effort. We have chosen Bad Essen as our destination today, which is only about 50 km away. There are two mooring options: 1. Marina Essen, a new, modern marina located centrally on the south bank; and 2. The harbor of the Motor Yacht Club Bad Essen, a few hundred meters further east on the north bank. We choose the first one and moor at the new marina at 2:45 p.m. A beautiful facility, everything very modern and in top shape. We use the nearby Aldi for shopping and enjoy a coffee break on board. In the late afternoon, it gets loud: youth groups arrive to "hang out," as they say. The harbor also invites this: it is open to every visitor on the land side; there are outdoor stairs and seating areas, so people like to come and watch, and "hang out." It becomes too loud for me, and I am concerned about the night's rest. There is a sign that says that only boat crews and guests have access after 10 p.m., but who will stick to that? I decide to cast off and move to the small private yacht harbor of MYC Bad Essen. There I manage to get the last available guest berth at 5 p.m. It is nice and quiet and familiar there, so I feel much more comfortable. I can even borrow a bicycle and take a short bike ride into town and into the wooded surroundings.

September 25th, 2019, Bad Essen - Minden / 35 km

In the morning, it is still quite damp and cool. But my little electric heater makes breakfast on board cozy. Our stage for today is short: only three hours to Minden. Departure at 10:00 a.m. After an uneventful canal journey, we moor at the marina of MYC Minden at 1:30 p.m. The friendly harbor master must have seen us immediately and assigns us a spot right in front of HIS restaurant. Pure coincidence, right? Of course. I do him the favor and order the daily special: breaded fish with fries, and a small beer. Tastes great!

September 26th, 2019, Minden - Landesbergen / 42 km

Departure from the yacht harbor at 9:30 a.m. and a short time later we are in front of the Weser lock. Over the radio, I learn from the lock operator that today only the small lock, the Schachtschleuse, is in operation. Its chamber is only 85 m long, just enough for an 80 m inland vessel, we don't fit in. We have to wait, either for a shorter commercial ship or for the stroke of luck that the lock is emptying downstream, then he could take us with him. - Unfortunately, only 80 m ships come, one after the other. So there is no locking together. Finally, after four and a half hours of waiting, it's time: the chamber is up, there is no ship waiting upstream in the canal, and downstream on the Weser, a commercial ship wants to go upstream. The lock operator calls me on the radio and gives me the green light. Quickly, I bring the little Miss Marple into the lock chamber, and then we descend rapidly 14 m. It really is like a shaft. We are through at 2:30 p.m.: finally on the Weser!

Now it's time to think about how far we can go today. How about driving all the way to Bremen-Lesum? That will be a bit tight, we still have five locks ahead of us. Well, let's see how we get through. Accommodation options are available in Verden or Achim. So let's leave early: Departure from Landesbergen at 9:00 a.m. How many times have I driven this route? I haven't counted, but the journey on the Mittelweser with its many curves is never boring. There is always something to see: green meadows, horses, sheep on the dike, small and larger towns - and of course the locks, which always provide a break. Sometimes you have to wait, but that can be quite pleasant too, then you have time for a little coffee break or to eat something.

Today we are lucky: we pass the first lock after only a short wait. We lock behind the commercial vessel MARU, which is carrying a load of gravel. Next lock: Drakenburg. The same game, we can enter after the MARU. Then comes Dörverden. I announce myself again over the radio (it's probably always the same lock operator, as the locks are operated remotely from the Minden control center), "can I enter behind the MARU again?" No, says the lock operator, I only have the small chamber (85 m)! Well, tough luck, the new large lock, which was put into operation a few years ago, is out of service, for whatever reason. So we moor again at the waiting pier and wait for what comes our way. The MARU locks alone, the lock gate is closed in front of our nose. How was that with the coffee break?

This time, however, we don't have to wait as long as in Minden. A commercial vessel is heading upstream, a second one is waiting downstream, so the chamber has to go downstream again. We get to enjoy the lock all by ourselves. We pass the last lock at Langwedel at almost 4 p.m. Now it's time to find a harbor. Twilight sets in. Verden is already behind us, so we head for Achim. We moor at the guest dock in the yacht harbor at 6:30 p.m. It's already dark and we have a cozy evening on board.

September 28th, 2019, Achim - Bremen-Lesum (Reiners) 45 km

The next morning, it doesn't want to get really bright: many dark clouds in the sky. Occasional short rain showers, but otherwise nothing bothers us on the last stage to the home port. Carefully, I navigate out of the Achim yacht harbor, as I once had a slight grounding here with Winnie the Pooh. This time everything goes smoothly and we can pick up speed on the Weser. If only there weren't always small boats (anglers, paddlers), of course I slow down in the boat, I don't want any trouble. We all want to have fun on the water!

At 11:40 a.m. we pass the small sports boat lock at the Weserwehr. It's just after low tide, the flood current starts, that's not ideal, but what can you do, we'll go against it. At 2 p.m. we are moored again at Reiners' dock on the Lesum river.

Travel data:

15 days of travel, 14 days of driving, and 1 day in port

26 locks

528 km covered distance

57 motor hours

Average speed: 9.26 km/h