Chapter 5 - Christmas in Paradise in Thailand

'Oh My Fuckin' God!'

That was actually the first thing that came to my mind when we arrived on Koh Mak by ferry.

No matter where I have been - I only knew and know such beaches from pictures.

So if you feel like seeing the same photo motifs over and over again, palm trees from every angle and beaches that all look the same, then this entry is just right for you. ;)

The blog has been quiet for the last week, I know.
And some of you have been eagerly waiting for the continuation, I know that too.
And at first I thought about just letting the pictures speak for themselves, because I assumed that the most exciting thing on this island would be maybe a coconut falling from a tree, but the lazy readers were too early in their joy...

But there are a few experiences that are worth sharing...

🖋 

We completely lost track of time and space on Koh Mak.

Only 1 week on less than 16 square kilometers and we are no longer sure when we actually arrived, where we are going and why in the first place.

This island is so incredibly paradise-like that sometimes you wonder if it can be real.

I'm not necessarily inclined to kitsch and sentimental stories, but sometimes when I sit on the beach at sunset, I feel like writing poems. ;))

Today it got even more utopian.

We went on a trip.

To the neighboring island called

Koh Kham.

Almost within throwing distance.

I heard that at low tide you could even walk over from a certain beach, but we didn't try that, instead we took a small boat ride for 300 baht (including admission to the island).

I really wanted to see it today before we leave for Bangkok tomorrow.

Koh Kham is kind of a

'ghost island'.

500 meters long & 200 meters wide, despite its small size, it is one of the most breathtaking places I have ever seen on my travels.

I don't think there is clearer water anywhere else.

The sea shimmers in all shades of turquoise.

And with the incredibly white sand, you have to be careful not to go

'snowblind'.

There are also many black lava rock formations in the water.

That's a pretty cool contrast to the rest.

But the special thing about this place is the high-end luxury resort that was supposed to be built on Koh Kham and has been abandoned for years.

Nature has long fought its way back and has turned it into a pretty crazy sight.

Do you know the documentary series

'Life After People'!?

If yes, then you know exactly what I mean.

If not, it doesn't matter.

The jungle is gradually 'swallowing' the concrete buildings and it was really interesting to take a few steps in there and get an idea of how far the construction had actually progressed.

Only the interior would have been missing.

But there has been a construction stop for more than 6 years now.

Otherwise, except for a few workers who are guarding the partially completed buildings and regularly moistening the sand so that it doesn't blow away (!) , there is no one on the island.

We were told that some guy had invested over 25 million baht, but the government stopped the project because there was apparently no building permit (!) .

(so stupid, honestly)

I mentioned the incredibly white sand earlier.

Guys, it's really so damn fine and soft.

And here's the thing, it was also transported here from Dubai (!) for a lot of money.

The resort was supposed to be unique in its kind.

(at least that worked out) ^^

We spent about 4.5 hours on the ghost island and I enjoyed every second of it.

________________________________

Oh, and just a quick side note:

You know you're in Thailand when your automatic image recognition on your phone shows 'FOOD' when taking a picture of a giant beetle.

__________________________________

..................................................... 

Now the night is over and the last morning on Koh Mak has begun.

In 2 hours the taxi will pick us up and take us to the ferry to Trat. :/

In the 7 nights here, we stayed in 3 different accommodations.

Because of the 'size' of the island and the fact that it's high season, almost everything was fully booked and we had to change our plans.

The first bungalow here gave us exactly what we so desperately needed and wished for before. (you remember!?)

-A huge and comfortable bed.

Plus the best breakfast we have had in Asia so far.

With homemade bread and jams and all that for free. 😋

The 2nd hut, unfortunately, had the most uncomfortable bed for us.

Beds on which you could feel every single spring and pillows that were so hard that you could use them to kill someone.

And we actually had a fucking real tree in the bathroom!!

A big tree.

A wide one.

A very ornate one with green leaves all around.

One that will eventually destroy the entire bungalow one day.

Because the roots have already found their way and take what they need and what stands in their way.

The nature has already destroyed a lot of the interior of the house and gave us our own little rainforest

when it poured the next day and all the holes in the roof let the rain onto our heads and the floor.

And the tree was also home to creatures.

You know... We (Juli) & creatures!

So... it was probably well-intentioned to build the house around the tree, but not very clever.....

No, that was not a good accommodation.

But it had the best beach bar I have ever seen.

Cool.

Cozy.

On the most beautiful beach.

And with very good cocktails.

We treated ourselves to cocktails (even after we moved out) during the happy hour.

The 3rd hotel (all good things...) exceeded our expectations.

It had just opened 5 days ago.

It was clean, it didn't have a tree in the toilet, it was stylishly furnished, it had a large pool and (not to forget) one of the most comfortable beds I have ever slept in.

Ah yes.

Too bad we have to leave soon. 💦

The good thing was that all 3 accommodations were right next to each other, so the many moves didn't feel too heavy.

The island is absolutely insane.

Really.

Yes, the many Germans here are annoying, who make up about 90% (!) of the visitors, but pfff-

you have to see something like this at least once in your life.

This is exactly how I imagined and wished Thailand to be.

The entire island apparently belongs to 5 families.

As rare as it may be - they are simply not focused on maximizing profits and that's why it is the way it is here.

A few resorts here and there.

No cars (only bicycles, scooters, and taxis that drive to and from the piers)
Yes, riding a scooter is basically unnecessary as the mini island is more than easy to explore on foot...
We still did it (even without a helmet & seat belt) and yes, we know what Greta would say, but you know what!?
The environment is really taken care of here, which is not a given in Asia (especially in Asia).
Some Wi-Fi passwords were 'noplastic'.
There were often no plastic bags.
No plastic straws.
There is a weekly clean-up action where you can help clean the island from trash.
Many accommodations provide free glass water bottles that are regularly refilled, and so on.

I like it.
We like it.
Damn, we love it!

About 15,000 palm trees and nothing but rubber plantations, pineapple fields, and good vibes.

Have I mentioned the deserted beautiful beaches!? :))
Where you can walk for hours without encountering many other creatures!?

This tranquility is indescribable.

If you love doing nothing, you will never want to leave here.

No real nightlife.

A few bars, but no ladyboy venues.

No crime.

And even if we had spent the entire 5 weeks here, we probably would not have felt like we missed anything.

(or do you think differently, Juli!?)

This Koh Mak is just too intense. 💙

Well, after all the praising, there is something that is not beautiful at all.

Maybe you secretly enjoy this, the fact that our paradise here also has 'shadow sides'.

At least for me.

And for many others.

Not for Juli.

No, not for her.

The old lucky pig was spared.

As always.

Uhm, what's the point anyway?

So here are 3 possible answers:

A) Sea urchin in the foot

B) Snow blindness due to too white beaches

C) Sunstroke, because of being unreasonable.

Well!?

Regardless of the fact that option 2 is rather unrealistic, it is still none of the above - Ha!

There is something on the beach.

(No, I said it wasn't sea urchins...! )

It was smaller.

Nastier.

Sneakier.

You don't know it's there, but it lurks in the sand.

And especially where I hang out, it seems to inform its extended family, friends, neighbors, and acquaintances that I'm here.

And then they all go:

'Yeeeeaah... FOOD!... Go get her !!!'

The spawn of hell.

S A N D F L I E S.

They are not good pilots in themselves, but once they have targeted something, they land accurately and get what they desire.

What can I say.

The flies fly to me!

If you now think, 'oh how cute, she's only talking about flies', then you have never encountered them in your life.
(and that's enviable)

I had read about them back then.
When I was on Koh Chang for the very first time.
Because the beasts can only be found locally.

They prefer certain countries. Certain beaches.
In tropical areas.
And a few of Koh Chang's beaches have long had the reputation of being a good home for the flying creatures.

When I googled it the other day, I read on almost every page that they particularly like it on Koh Mak.

One headline even said:
Death in Paradise.
And for a moment I considered naming my next blog entry that... . :D
In any case, I didn't have any problems with them neither back then nor this year. At least not on Koh Chang.

Yes, here and there I had a red telltale spot.

But I think it was more likely the cool (but not harmless) tiger mosquitoes that also found me tasty... no sand fly bites.
If you think about it, they are not really bites, but rather stings.

They have something like a 'saw' and they cut into your skin... and then they drink your blood.
You don't notice the attack.
You don't feel it.

It doesn't hurt.

You don't see it at first.

You only realize it once it's too late... .

Do you know that feeling when you wake up in the middle of the night because 74 bites all itch and burn and keep you from sleeping???

Neither do I.

Because it's actually 324.
At least. 😌

We counted.
There were and still are countless ones.
And the nights were horrific.
Plus, there was always my voice of reason (Juli) reminding me not to scratch (haaa haaaa) because it can lead to serious infections.

My legs, arms, occasionally my belly and back - all bitten, chewed up, swollen, red, scratched.

Ugly.

Be glad that I spare you the pictures of that. ;)

AND: (that has to be said)

All of this despite using Anti Brumm.

So honestly.

We won't pack that overpriced crap again in our travel backpack.

In the end, we got something from the local pharmacy (also expensive, but slightly better).

Unfortunately, it didn't help with afterwards.

Like most other things for before.

I just had to get through it.

And now, 7 days after the first bite, the itching is more bearable and the risk of getting something else is slightly lower.

Amen. 

Oh, and from little annoying insects to something bigger and great.

There were also many many dogs here.

Dogs.

But no monkeys. DOUBLEQUOTATIONMARKSOPEN

Some with collars.

Well, the dogs.

Some without.

But all well-fed and well-treated.

Sometimes some of them came to us.

When we were eating. (of course)

Juli (you know - the Voice of Reason) always forbade me from feeding them.

Yesterday it was a puppy that came.

Haha and guess who gave in....... 😋

In general, the locals seem to really care that all animals are well.
In EVERY minimarket and elsewhere at the cash registers, there was a TIP box where you could throw in donations 'for the animals'.
We thought that was pretty good.

So.
We will definitely come back.
That's as certain as the bite of the sand fly. 

PS: If you want to be (more) jealous, just scroll through the rest of the pictures above! ;) 

PPS: If the wanderlust becomes unbearable, think about the sand flies, then it will definitely get better. ;D

 O V E R  &  O U T. 

We're leaving (for now). 

New adventures await us.