In the north, where the dying souls go to the afterlife

வெளியிடப்பட்டது: 14.10.2016

This Saturday was supposed to be full of events.

Finally good weather, a good breakfast and surprisingly good sleep in the new bed (even though we rebuilt and refined this construction several times in the following days - we are considering making a video tutorial on 'how to Build a Bed in under 5 minutes in your fucking Honda'.. Or something like that).

On this day we also had clear goals:

Cape Reinga, the northernmost point of New Zealand and the 'most beautiful camping spot on the North Island' right near the beach - on the way there we planned to make a detour to the 'Giant Sand dunes'. But before heading into the most eventful day so far, we used the sun to make use of the free WiFi on the veranda of the farm owners. And in good company:


Really lovely won
Really lovely won


With heavy hearts we say goodbye to the dogs (and the WiFi) and head north. It's a few hours drive to Cape Reinga.

The scenery of the green hills quickly gave way to a completely different picture.


Subtropical streets
Subtropical streets


The course of the road remained interesting. Left-right-left and up and steep down, only this time palm trees as far as the eye can see - New Zealand is indeed more diverse than expected. The extent to which this would be demonstrated to us shortly after!

A brown sign with the inscription 'Giant Sand Dunes' is relatively unspectacularly located on the side of the road, we turn onto the narrow path. What we find there blows us away: 'Giant' Sand Dunes was not an exaggeration! On the contrary... In front of us stretched an endless desert of fine sand. Stacked like the pyramids in Egypt. In front of it a small shallow river, densely overgrown with tropical greenery, palm trees, ferns. Behind it the sea should be right there. It could only be imagined in the imagination, so unreal and absurd was this landscape in front of us.

At the parking lot, you could rent sand boards, similar to sledges. Since Thimo was still very cold and suffering from a sore throat, he didn't want to climb the 20m high dunes up and down. Out of solidarity, I also refrain, which is a shame - the group of people up there on the dune looks like a lot of fun - even if some of the girls take what feels like hours to decide whether they really want to take this height and especially steep descent.

However, we still want to go up for a few photos. For that we have to take off our shoes and walk through the small river. Then like an endlessly long staircase up the first dune with sand-boarders zooming down - to realize HOW extensive the sand is. As far as the eye can see, SAND. This can never be New Zealand! No one told us that before. We joke among ourselves that we must have taken a wrong turn and ended up in Africa.

And as if this country had to top it all off, we go up the last dune and find the wave-whipping sea! At this point, the day is unforgettable!


Notice the tiny people on top of the dune

A panorama like on the Nile

Endless footprints as a silent legacy of the sand-boarders

Ocean view, you have to take off your glasses to believe it

We would probably have stayed much longer, but we had another mission: to be at Cape Reinga for the sunset! Where the Pacific Ocean and the Tasman Sea meet and collide - recognizable with the naked eye by the white foaming waves in front of the lighthouse there. Also the northernmost end of New Zealand. So a guaranteed goosebumps moment.

We almost didn't make it on time. We stop briefly on the way to take pictures of the hazy and warm light of the slowly sinking sun shining on the distant hills and mountains. Great silhouettes captured on camera.

When we finally arrive at Cape Reinga, the sun is really setting slowly. It's getting colder. But that's not the reason for the goosebumps that run down our spines.

According to legend, the dying Maori souls come here to return to the realm of their ancestors. Ancient-looking tablets tell this story carved in stone, standing on top of the hill like gravestones. To the right, further down is the lighthouse, in front of us the aforementioned 'Hill of Souls'. Thimo and I split up. He takes photos, I just want to enjoy this moment in full. With headphones in my ears and relaxing music, I walk up the hill and find a quiet spot. Blue sky and an orange sun sinking into the sea right in front of me. To the right the lighthouse and to the left steep cliffs where the waves crash. It couldn't have been arranged any better. In that moment, I miss my girlfriend so much, that would have topped it all off! With mixed feelings, I sit there until the sun is almost gone, then I go down to Thimo and the lighthouse.

There's a signpost with directions to major cities. You really feel small. I never thought something so simple could have such a profound effect on me.


You can feel the magic in this place

Where to next?
Where to next?


As it gets dark, we quietly leave Cape Reinga and head to our campsite.

20 minutes on a bumpy, undefined dirt road, jungle on both sides. Pitch black. No cars in sight. That's how horror stories start.

Not here. Not in New Zealand. Just before reaching the campsite, a few wild horses cross our path (there are dozens of them running freely in this area). Alexandra would probably cry for joy right now. 😌😂

How great this place actually is can only be guessed in the darkness. However, the moon is so bright here that we cast shadows at night. And it's only a half moon! We wonder if we should also apply sunscreen at night? 🌝

Just as we were about to go to sleep, a jeep pulls up. A guy gets out, goes to one of the long-drop toilets (yes, long-drop toilets - but like all toilets in New Zealand, they are super clean and well equipped!) and comes back with a 'How is it going guys?' He comes over to us, shakes our hands and chats with us. We ask where he's from, 'Brazil.' He has also lived in Bali for a few years and loves New Zealand because of surfing and fishing. He asks if we fancy a beer (it's mega expensive here!) - he doesn't like to drink alone. How could we say no to that? He actually takes out four from a cooler packed with ice - even though it feels like -5 degrees. I thought he was Brazilian?? As we stand there in the pitch dark near other cars, he tells us a lot about himself and his life. His name is Marcelo, 42 years old, and he gave up his company in Brazil to travel and live a simpler life. 42?! The guy looks maxinaö 30 😳 One beer becomes two, three. In the end, it's four and we drink to warm up, philosophizing away in front of us in English. Marcelo invites us to visit him at his house in Bali if we ever end up there. He also wants to go fishing tomorrow morning - we can join him if we want, he wants to give us tips on how to catch 'heeeeeaps of fish' 'on the rocks'. Along with the elongated 'heeeeaps', his vocabulary also includes 'Allright', 'bro' and 'sushimi' (he constantly wants to make sushi). A really great guy, this Marcelo. He says it's important to get to know the people you meet while traveling. I absolutely agree with him. When you travel, it's always about the people and characters you meet. Marcelo was one of those. Except for toast, we couldn't offer him much, which made us feel a bit embarrassed. He just said, 'naaah, its alllright bro. No worries!' When it's midnight, we say goodbye with an appointment to go fishing the next day.

The beer serves as the perfect sleep aid in the cold, and the encounter with Marcelo is a fitting end to a truly amazing day.

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