Right in the hinterland

This morning, we had the delicious breakfast with omelette and fruit salad for the last time before we set off. Before heading towards Manja on the dirt road, we take advantage of civilization one last time and get money, buy bananas and oranges, and refuel. Then we leave Morondava and turn right after a few meters. "Say goodbye, civilization," Manantsoa says and laughs. We drive over a very improvised bridge made of planks and we are in the middle of nowhere. For a very long time, we only see hinterland landscapes, small villages, and occasionally a river that we have to cross. There is a small barrier at each larger river and the local father takes a small tip. 2000-5000 Ariary, depending on the width of the river and convincing power. Usually, there are still 10-20 children dancing around him and asking us for candies or gifts. Well, in any case, families here have many children. They laugh, wave, shout, and chase after our car. Most of the time, they shout until we wave to them from the car, then they wave back with a smile and continue playing. But woe betide us if we don't wave. Only rarely do children come to the car who actually ask for something, these are mostly villages that are really somewhere in the middle of nowhere and often don't even have a river or water nearby. It quickly becomes apparent: the closer a river is, the more satisfied and "wealthier" the people are, at least they are able to grow some food. Before the rivers, Manantsoa seals the tires, switches to all-wheel drive, takes a deep breath, grins, and off we go through the river, sometimes deeper, sometimes less deep, but you never know beforehand. Fortunately, without any further incidents. It is super hot and dusty, and there is hardly any shade. We drive through the landscape between termite mounds and zebu carts. Eventually, we stop in a village: lunch break! Manantsoa goes to a family selling food and eats rice with chicken. It's unthinkable for Vazaha to eat that. "They could never handle that." One of the first rules you should follow in Madagascar: don't eat street food if you don't want to have major stomach problems. So we eat our mandarins and bananas and wait in the shade. Let's continue. It's still a good distance to Manja and it's hot and dusty. Eventually, it's only one more hour. Then suddenly, Manantsoa buckles up and signals. Huh? Tadaaa: there's a road at the other end of the world. Just like that, a town and an asphalt road. Arrived in Manja. A charming town that seems very likable. Now we're curious about the hotel that has been mentioned from so many different sides and is famous for its ugliness. The only one around, so there's not much choice. We expect the worst. That way, we can only be pleasantly surprised. And indeed, it's not that bad. Behind the gates, a small oasis of coconut palms and parrots awaits us. The rooms are certainly not luxurious, and instead of running water, we have two buckets. But still, a nice accommodation. And allegedly known for its delicious zebu steak. Actually, the food is pretty tasty, and there's even a fan for the night. It could be worse. The breakfast the next morning is very petit-dejeuner, with the emphasis on petit, but that's okay.