07.-12.05.2019 # Samoa, Upolu

Before leaving the ferry in Mulifanua, I try in vain to remove at least the windshield from the salty crust that has formed on the entire car during the crossing. Only a proper rain shower will help, but it doesn't look like it at the moment. Upolu, the smaller of the two main islands, welcomes us with bright sunshine, just as we remember from our last visit.

The drive to the capital Apia usually takes about an hour. Due to various construction sites, it takes a bit longer this time. But we don't have any appointments, so we don't rush. Since our selected accommodation is very close to the Amanaki Hotel, where we stayed in 2016, we can even do without any navigation aids. Apia is quite manageable, so you can't really get lost there. So we check into the 'Tanoa Tusitala' in the late afternoon. It already makes a pretty good impression from the outside and the big, clean rooms promise a pleasant stay. Of course, we are most excited about the air conditioning. After a week in the tropical climate without this convenience, our clothes need to be properly dehumidified again.

We have only planned two nights in Apia to do various errands. One of them weighs about 10kg (at least 2kg of adhesive tape) and is supposed to make its way home through Samoan Post. We assume that we will no longer need the hiking shoes and warm clothes, as well as a few other small items. So why not lighten our travel luggage a bit. Tina advised us against shipping via DHL due to unexpected delays.

Ignoring a pale yellow stripe on the road, we park directly in front of the entrance of the Post Office as a matter of course. There are still other vehicles there, so we don't worry. Until a police officer comes and says that parking is not allowed here. While Maike goes to the counter with the package, I am about to look for another parking space. Then the officer appears again and asks how long I plan to stay here. I optimistically say about three minutes. He finally agrees to let me stay here as an exception. Very friendly. I don't want to disappoint the man, so I quickly go to the counter to see how long it will take. When Maike tells me the horrendous price for the package, I almost have to sit down. We never expected it to be that much. We briefly consider whether it's worth it and then decide to go ahead with the shipment. However, our cash is not enough for that. So I rush to the bank, which is fortunately right across the street, and try to quickly get some cash. The three minutes are up. The ATM in the bank is broken. Doesn't matter, there are more around the corner. Of the three, I naturally choose the wrong one. I could of course be suspicious because there is a note in Samoan next to it. But in the rush, you don't pay attention to such trivialities. The ATM tells me to take my money and wait for the receipt. No money comes, but after a painfully long wait, I receive the receipt confirming the transaction. Sh..., what now? So I go into the bank and ask the nearest employee. He shows me the crucial sentence on the receipt. The transaction was NOT completed, it says. Those who can read have a clear advantage. Relief. The second attempt at one of the other two ATMs finally succeeds and I return slightly out of breath to the post office counter. The three minutes are long gone. Luckily, in Samoa, time goes a little differently. The officer on the other side of the street doesn't do the same and so we get away with it.

After the little excitement, we spend our time in Apia very relaxed with some shopping and relaxing. On the second evening, we treat ourselves to some German food at 'Amanaki', a relic from colonial times. Schnitzel or pork chop with mashed potatoes, delicious. Back at the hotel, we watch a Fia Fia show, where the employees, all amateurs, perform folk dances, including fire dancing. Not bad for hobby artists, although the traditional drum rhythms have largely given way to modern canned music. We have experienced this more authentically before.

Before we head to the west coast the next day, we visit the main office of Samoa Shipping Corporation. It is not very well marked, but we still find it on the second attempt. At the counter where you can usually book your ferry tickets, we ask for Jasmine Netzler. We want to personally thank her for her professional help, which made the smooth transfer to and from Savaii possible. We maintained an extensive email contact for months, and her concern that something might go wrong was always evident. It was like personal support. When she is finally summoned forward by her colleagues from the back office, without knowing what they want from her, good Jasmine is speechless and completely overwhelmed before she is almost in tears of joy. She had never experienced anything like this during her time at work, let alone expected it. As a small thank you, we give her a bar of chocolate (unfortunately, there is no Merci here), which she will later share with her colleagues. Before we even reach our next accommodation, we receive an email in which Jasmine thanks us again enthusiastically for the successful surprise and writes that our visit will be an inspiration for her for a long time. It was definitely worth it.

Meanwhile, the weather has noticeably worsened. During our drive to the west coast, it is pouring rain at times. Hopefully, it won't be like this for the next 4 days that we want to spend there.

The 'Return to Paradise' in Matautu is a beautifully green, fairly spacious resort and is more geared towards Australian or New Zealand package tourists who don't want to worry about anything and only want to leave the accommodation in case of emergency or for guided tours. It was named after the film of the same name with Gary Cooper, which was shot in this bay in the 1950s. Apart from the fact that it seems a bit overpriced, it is extraordinarily well organized and the staff are extremely friendly and attentive. You usually don't have to ask here if you need something, but you are asked almost constantly if you need anything. There is a small bay with a sandy beach for swimming, otherwise, the coast is rather rugged and there is a constant strong swell. The surf is sometimes so loud that we can even hear it thundering with the windows closed in the room. This time we don't stay in a bungalow, but in a room on the upper floor of a house with 6 units. We only get neighbors on the last day, so we can enjoy the magnificent view of the sea quite undisturbed. We have everything from bright sunshine to heavy rain weather-wise. But we don't really care because we mostly just take it easy. We have already seen almost everything worth seeing on Upolu, so we don't have to rush around the island. I also notice that I am getting more and more relaxed. A pleasant side effect is that I can sleep regularly for more than six hours again. I hope this will last a while.

But we still go on an excursion. We drive along the west coast towards the south, where we haven't been yet. We stop at the Togitogiga Waterfall in the Pupu-Pue National Park. It's nice there too. However, it's one of the rather cloudy days, so we don't necessarily need a cool-down. Instead, we enjoy a great garden toilet. :-)

We continue driving along the coastal road and everywhere, just like on Savaii, we see people mowing the lawn. It seems to be a kind of national sport here. However, it's not surprising, as the flora seems to explode after every rainfall. And the homeowners are not much different from those at home. A well-kept golf lawn in the front yard is a must.

Following a spontaneous idea, we turn off the road at a sign indicating the way to a cave. A very bad idea, as we quickly realize. The forest road is already quite bumpy and seems to have no end. Until it suddenly leads into a lake. So not a real lake, but one that the recent rains have left there. Neither of us feel like testing how deep it is, especially since it extends at least beyond the next bend. The only thing left is the realization that a bumpy road is just as bumpy when driven in reverse.

Shortly before the Saletoga Resort, it starts raining. Time for lunch then. When it doesn't stop drizzling, we decide to return and literally go from the rain into the pouring rain. A small flood of tropical showers pushes our windshield wipers to the limit of their performance. In one of the villages we pass, an overflowing creek floods the road. A few little boys who use the little flood next to the pavement as a pool aren't bothered at all. But we are glad that we reach the 'Paradise' unscathed.

In the evening, the amazing Maeva Band, composed of resort employees, plays in the restaurant. They are well known regionally and have won several awards, as we could read in the announcement. The performance is accordingly marketed and sold to the customers together with a dinner for a lot of money. We initially decide against it and prefer to eat in the beach bar. When we pass the restaurant later on our way to the room, the band is just starting to play 'Hotel California'. We stop for a moment and listen. Because it's really great, I spontaneously step forward and throw some money into the collection hat. As a result, we are forced by local guests to sit down and listen to the rest of the concert.

Then it's Sunday again and our stay in Samoa is relentlessly coming to an end. But it has one good thing. A few days ago, we received an email from Fiji Airways, offering Bula Bid seats for auction in the business class. More for fun than with the prospect of success, we made a bid. In the meantime, we received the message that we will have more comfortable seats and full service on our flight to Fiji for a small additional fee. The anticipation of this somewhat dampens the pain of saying goodbye.

The return of our rental car at the airport was scheduled for twelve o'clock. We set off shortly after 10:00 a.m. and, after making a refueling stop, we arrive at the almost deserted airport an hour later. Of course, it's Sunday and everyone is probably still in church. We wait for a full two hours and nothing changes. No one from Avis shows up and because our plane is the first to depart today (4:50 p.m.), none of the small cafés or any other shop are open. Before we run out of cigarettes completely, we drive to the ferry terminal again. There is always a little kiosk open and we quickly find a shop. Needless to say, when we return to the airport, everything is the same as before. At some point, I have a discussion with a security guy who says that I can't park in front of the Avis office door. I explain to him that I don't want to park here at all, but just drop off the car. When I show no signs of leaving, he gives in.

Finally, the check-in counter opens and we can check in our luggage. An Australian who also wants to drop off his car is on the phone with someone from Avis. He kindly explains to me that you just have to drive the vehicle to a nearby parking deck and drop off the key at the airport information desk. They could have told you that right away when you pick up the car. Meanwhile, I am beginning to suspect that 12:00 noon could also have meant midnight. Then we could have spent our time more wisely. Unfortunately, this is not clarified before our departure. It doesn't matter now. Bye, bye Samoa, it was great again. Now we are waiting for 4 days in Fiji. Here we go again.

The return of our rental car at the airport was scheduled for twelve o'clock. We set off shortly after 10:00 a.m. and, after making a refueling stop, we arrive at the almost deserted airport an hour later. Of course, it's Sunday and everyone is probably still in church. We wait for a full two hours and nothing changes. No one from Avis shows up and because our plane is the first to depart today (4:50 p.m.), none of the small cafés or any other shop are open. Before we run out of cigarettes completely, we drive to the ferry terminal again. There is always a little kiosk open and we quickly find a shop. Needless to say, when we return to the airport, everything is the same as before. At some point, I have a discussion with a security guy who says that I can't park in front of the Avis office door. I explain to him that I don't want to park here at all, but just drop off the car. When I show no signs of leaving, he gives in.

Finally, the check-in counter opens and we can check in our luggage. An Australian who also wants to drop off his car is on the phone with someone from Avis. He kindly explains to me that you just have to drive the vehicle to a nearby parking deck and drop off the key at the airport information desk. They could have told you that right away when you pick up the car. Meanwhile, I am beginning to suspect that 12:00 noon could also have meant midnight. Then we could have spent our time more wisely. Unfortunately, this is not clarified before our departure. It doesn't matter now. Bye, bye Samoa, it was great again. Now we are waiting for 4 days in Fiji. Here we go again.