Zageri - Kutaisi

After the rainy night, on Saturday morning (01.09.2018) around nine o'clock, I dare to leave the tent for the first time. Since our stuff is still wet even after breakfast, I decide to get a hot drink at a nearby cafe on the outskirts of Lentekhi. Back at the tent, I calmly start packing our things. By one o'clock, we are ready to go and can make our way south along the Zcheniszchali River, which meanders through the mountainous valley of the same name. The road is quite easy to walk on. Rango can mostly run alongside me on a green verge, and the sun is mostly hidden behind clouds. After two hours and nearly 10 km, we reach the village of Mazashi. There is nothing here except a few houses with gardens, a place of worship, and a bus stop. On the outskirts, I spot a peach tree whose fruits are unfortunately not ripe yet. Too bad. We continue south. The clouds have somewhat cleared, and the green verge is gradually disappearing, both unpleasant for the big guy. I try to hitch a ride every now and then, but I'm out of luck today. Around four o'clock, I pass by a dammed-up stream by the roadside near Kvedreshi. I follow the lead of some local youths and spontaneously cool off in the water. Rango takes the opportunity to dip his belly in the cool water as well. After drying off in the afternoon sun, we continue marching. In Rtskhmeluri, I stop at a bakery for coffee and take another break. Some residents gather around us, and I have a conversation with a German teacher. Rango gets to enjoy plenty of bread, and I also receive an additional piece along with my coffee. After half an hour, we set off again, accompanied by three boys who are running to Zageri for football training. The town is also my destination for the day. The three of them chase away other dogs for Rango along the way and provide me with grapes that they steal from a garden. Just before reaching the larger town, the boys are picked up by their coach in a car, and Rango and I continue our walk. Besides a few pomegranate trees that are not yet ripe, I spot a few fig trees by the roadside and can harvest plenty of sweet, aromatic fruits. Then we pass through a rock gate and arrive in Zageri, where shortly after entering the town, an employee of the power plant invites me to camp on the company grounds (a small wooded area on a peninsula in the Zageri Reservoir) and to have dinner. After walking about 20 kilometers, both are very welcome to me.

Because of the shady spot, I wake up on Sunday well after ten o'clock. For breakfast, I have oatmeal soaked in milk with plenty of figs. Very tasty. My hosts left me plenty of bread, cheese, and vegetables the night before. So for a change, I prepare a vegetarian dish for the big guy, made from bread and cubes of cheese with tomato-fig puree. Seems to be to his liking... After the feast, I decide to take another day off. During the rest of Sunday, I take a short walk in the unassuming town, do some shopping, and doze in and around the tent. I spend the evening by the fire and just before going to bed, I am detained for a second dinner at the power plant. I chat with Abo from Gori (he insists that I must visit the city), who grazes his cows on the power plant premises and persuades me to have a few glasses of wine together. Shortly after midnight, I retreat to the tent with Rango.

On Monday, September 3, 2018, I once again wake up in the late morning, have breakfast, and leisurely pack our things. It's about half past one when I set off with the big guy. About 10 km southwest of Zageri, another reservoir is marked on my map as the destination for the day. The only catch is that the reservoir is in the neighboring valley, so we have to cross a small hill range. After the first hour of walking, we have to take a break in the shade of a tree as Rango is struggling with the heat again. The road, winding up the slope, offers little shade and has become quite hot. During the break, a small car stops and offers us a ride. After we have already taken a seat, we have to get out again. Rango seemed to have been too curious and looked forward between the seats. So we continue on foot shortly afterwards. After we have managed the ascent on the road, we can take a smaller path during the descent that leads us down to Orbeli. It's around five o'clock when we reach the center of the village, where some curious people gather again. After making a few purchases at the market, we continue walking to Gagulechi and to the shore of the targeted body of water. Just before six o'clock, I set up the tent on the shore of the Lajanuri Reservoir, make some coffee, and prepare a small dinner. I refrain from taking a refreshing bath as the water quality does not invite it. In the evening, a few cows join us, and when darkness falls, I retreat under our tarp.

On Tuesday, after another leisurely start to the day, we can continue our journey around noon. For the first 45 minutes, we walk along the eastern shore of the reservoir. After passing the dam, the Lajanuri Valley narrows significantly, and we walk partially in a gorge-like environment. Very scenic, but again unpleasant for Rango due to the midday sun. By shortly before two o'clock, we have made our way for the 8 km to Alpana, and I inquire about possible bus connections to Kutaisi at a small market. There is a minibus at three o'clock. Until then, we take a seat on a shady bench and wait. The minibus arrives on time but refuses to take Rango on board. That would have been too easy. So we continue on foot for now. Shortly afterward, we are lucky, and a passing minibus stops and takes us with it. It takes us a full 2 hours to cover the 50 km to Kutaisi. Bus travel is only for the tough in Georgia. This is due to both the poor roads and the driving style of most bus drivers. From the bus station, I head directly to a body of water on the northern outskirts of the city. Once there, I leave Rango and luggage in the shade and find some food in the nearby area. Among other things, I can harvest ripe, sweet persimmons for breakfast the next day. After the potential campsite has cleared of most visitors, I set up our camp on the dammed Rioni River, have dinner, and go for a swim. It is already dark, but the moon shines brightly enough to find my way back to the shore.

Not much happens on Wednesday (September 5, 2018) except for a trip to Kutaisi. The city is bustling, which I observe from the terrace of McDonald's on the central square of the city. I can use the good wifi to upload some pictures. After a visit to the train station, I make a detour back to the tent, along the other bank of the Rioni. Rango has diligently guarded it again. In the evening, strong winds pick up, and I retreat to the tent quite early after securing it.