Day 16

I woke up around half past eight and stayed in bed for a little while longer. Around half past nine, I packed my backpack with water and a towel and headed to the bakery. I got 3 Pain au Chocolat and went straight to the surf shop. I rented a surfboard for 4 hours to practice a bit. I had a long wetsuit on, it was quite windy today. Standing in the waves, waiting for a good one, I thought to myself, it's kind of a cool feeling to surf a wave. 🏄🏼‍♂️ It was really exhausting today, constantly paddling back. After about an hour, when I got hit by a big wave, I took a break. Breaks are necessary. I called Jerry and after 20 minutes, I went back into the water and lost track of time. I surfed for nearly 4 hours in total, quickly returned and returned the board. At the bus, I cooked, I was hungry and completely exhausted. I ate an oversized portion of gnocchi, just like yesterday😂 I was more than tired.

Fortunately, the wetsuit still fit, despite my mega plates😁. Maxime had his red heart-shaped sunglasses on again today and went to the beach in a good mood. A bit of repetition from yesterday and into the water. But it didn't work for me at all, even though it was really good this morning. I had a few wipeouts, didn't get on the board properly and was a bit hectic. Maxime pulled me out of the water and said, "Hey Legend, cool down. You can't surf every wave. Take it easy." But I somehow wanted to surf every wave😅. So back into the water and approach it all with a chilled mindset. And guess what? It worked. Just before the end, I surfed a wave pretty far and kept making small turns, and from the beach, I heard a loud "Yeah," there was Maxime giving me a thumbs up and dancing. Pure motivation. I caught 3-4 more waves and then we went back to the surf shop. I talked to Maxime a bit more, and he's been coaching for over 16 years and is still passionate about it😁.

Once we reached the bus, we had an after-surf beer (or several). Around 8:30 PM, I went to have dinner again, a surf day makes you hungry. I missed the sunset again, but it's okay. I was really tired and went to bed early.

SONG OF THE DAY: Mojito by Bilbao

Mileage: 186,977