Bariloche and hiking

10.2. Bariloche

Today, Amelia is taking a PCR test to find out if she is still positive. Of course, she is, but this might get her a certificate of recovery. In addition, we are trying to reserve the refugios in the mountains. Unfortunately, we have to make deposits through bank connections, but the ways we know to do this are denied to us. We are waiting for the replies from the refugios, which hopefully accept that we will pay everything 100% on site. After that, we explore the surroundings and drive in an endless traffic jam towards Colonia Suiza. We do not find Bariloche and the surrounding area very refreshing and are a bit overwhelmed by the overtourism and the crowds of people. Colonia Suiza is a settlement of Valaisans who emigrated here more than a hundred years ago. Today, it is a tourist magnet and resembles a bit of a hippie open-air market with attractions for children and dining options.

Back in the city, we enjoy a vegetarian platter in a brewery before returning to the campsite. Good night!

11.2. Refugio Frey

Finally, today we start hiking! After various clarifications about our onward journey and the lack of responses from the refugios, we decide to only go to Refugio Frey. It is the only one with a decent reservation system and has confirmed our stay. We have to cancel the other refugios with a heavy heart, as we can no longer wait for their responses here in Bariloche. Of course, they contact us about an hour after our cancellations with their confirmations, but we are tired of the constant back and forth and set off somewhat late to reach Refugio Frey today. The journey takes almost forty-five minutes due to the heavy traffic. Villa Catedral, our starting point, is primarily a winter sports area. We pack our backpacks and start the 6 km ascent of 750 meters. After 2.5 hours, we reach the top and check into the cozy refugio. Finally, we are back in nature and can enjoy the silence.

However, the mood between us changes, and we are faced with the decision to continue part of the journey alone, as we no longer do each other as much good as we would like. Disheartened, we go to sleep. How quickly this idea could become reality without us doing anything, we will find out in two days...

12.1. Spending the night with snorers is common in refugios, but we are not so badly rested. After breakfast, we set off on a circular route to return to our car in the valley. The hike offers great views towards the west into the national park and takes about 2.5 hours. Instead of descending through scree slopes, we decide to finish the circular tour with the chairlift and gondola, as you can only get a ticket down below. In the end, we ride for free, as no one asks us to buy one at the valley station. ;)

Back in Bariloche, we look for accommodation for two more days, as we want to relax a bit and feel more comfortable in an apartment than at the campsite. When we arrive at the address (Google Maps once again not helpful), we can't find the apartment and wait for about 20 minutes for the handover thanks to a phone call from a kiosk operator. The gentleman rushes in with his car and instructs us to follow him, as the apartment is not located here at all. Slightly confused, we follow the man and end up, to our amusement, 50 meters from the café where we booked. So we didn't actually need to set off. J We check in, wait briefly for the electrician to fix the short circuit problem in the apartment, and go to a nearby excellent Argentine grill for dinner.

13.1. Bariloche

We sleep in and stroll through Bariloche. It has incredibly many chocolate shops, where Bern and Zurich together stand no chance. J In the meantime, we have become quite reconciled and made friends with Bariloche. It even has something like a pedestrian zone and a small bar scene. Today we go to a pizzeria and later go home. Tomorrow is the big day to drive to the border.