Don Curry is hiking in the Caucasus

Don Curry woke up shortly after 6:00 am. A glance out of his panoramic window made him wide awake in an instant. He saw the summit of Kazbegi, the third highest mountain in Georgia at 5054 m, in full sunlight and completely cloudless. All lower regions were still in shade, which gave the whole scene an almost unreal charm. The sun zone slowly sank, and Don Curry waited for the brief moment when the Holy Trinity Church was still in the shadow zone, but the mountains behind him were already bathed in light. Shortly afterwards, the church also shone in the sunshine, and Don Curry dozed off again.

On his second awakening, the entire panorama was bathed in sunlight before him. He now drew the curtains to reduce the heating from noon onwards. Then he continued driving with Xerra on the Georgian Military Highway towards the north. Here, the Terek River had carved the Dariali Gorge into the rocks, which had been made more accessible to road traffic through 2 tunnels. At the end of the gorge, the newly built Dariali Monastery rises in conspicuous size directly by the road; directly behind it, the buildings of the border control between Georgia and Russia begin. Don Curry did not want to continue driving here, so he turned back towards Stepantsminda and turned into the Sno Valley a few kilometers behind the city.

Shortly before the main town of the same name, the local artist Merab Phiranishvili started a unique art project a few years ago. He crafted portrait heads of important figures from Georgian mythology and history from some gigantic rocks. He now has more rocks delivered to expand his gallery. Don Curry gladly paid the requested 5 Lari entrance fee to the artist present.

Soon after Sno, the previously well-asphalted road turned into a rough track leading up to the village of Juta at the end of the valley at an altitude of 2200 m, where it ends. Parking in Juta cost Don Curry 10 Lari (= 3.50 €). Since the valley is already very narrow here, the village is almost exclusively located on the mountainside and can only be accessed on foot or by horse. Even Don Curry had to quickly gain altitude on steep serpentines. Above the village, there are some accommodations and campsites that can also only be reached after the steep ascent. The Fifth Season Resort is already located at an altitude of 2360 m. From here, there is a magnificent view of numerous peaks of the Caucasus with their snowy and icy caps; hundreds of thousands of wildflowers cover the lush green meadows through which several streams flow - an alpine idyll of the highest class. The entire time, Don Curry wondered about a particularly spicy scent that kept wafting into his nose, until he recognized the herbs that grew everywhere among the flowers: tarragon. The hiking trail now descended slightly to the Chauki Lakes. But since no new views were expected from there, Don Curry preferred to stop at the Fifth Season, ordered a Coke Zero, and settled down on one of the numerous beach chairs to recover from the exertions of the 200-meter ascent in the sun. Hammocks were also available on the resort grounds. Unfortunately, the kitchen was closed at noon, so Don Curry had to find another solution for his increasing hunger.

After the strenuous descent and the return to Stepantsminda, he stopped at the local luxury hotel 'Rooms,' one of Georgia's most famous establishments. On the large sun terrace with a view of Kazbegi, Don Curry ordered a chicken burger and an Argo Black; as a reward for the hike, he also had a pistachio tart packed.

Back in his cottage, he needed some rest first. Later, he brewed himself a coffee in the integrated kitchen and enjoyed the delicious tart. Only around 8:30 pm, he set off on the short walk to the restaurant 'Tiba,' where he was almost greeted as a regular guest. The waiter from yesterday immediately asked him if it was Chacha time again today? Maybe, Don Curry replied and first ordered a tomato-cucumber salad with coriander-adjika and a veal chakondrili, a stewed dish in a spicy white wine sauce. Both the salad and the chakondrili were characterized by an intense flavor, and unlike many other restaurants, the meat here was actually soft and tenderly stewed. Don Curry enjoyed a Kazbegi beer, brewed in Stepantsminda, with his meal. At the end of the meal, the waiter approached him and asked if he needed anything else? Don Curry was actually completely satisfied and full. But the waiter remained persistent: he must want something else, right? That's when Don Curry understood and dutifully and with a smile ordered a Chacha. Shortly after, the waiter - just like yesterday - came to his table at a glacial pace with a glass filled to the brim: it was the delicious peach Chacha again.

Satisfied, Don Curry returned to his cottage, opened the curtains again, and soon fell asleep, tired from hiking and eating well...