Israel - Climax of Holiness and Fragile Status Quo

31.03.2019

The journey began in the morning with a flight to Tel Aviv for a tour in the Holy Land. Already during the transfer to the hotel in Tel Aviv, one could clearly feel the rhythm of the city, which we later encountered in many other places - everywhere there was the sound of the best 90s trance and techno. The city itself has a very European and modern feel, with a beautiful beach promenade and an oriental market.

01.04.2019

After the travel group had gathered in the lobby and we had met our tour guide Benzi and bus driver Asmi, we went to Jaffa. From here, the area of present-day Tel Aviv was settled in the past and there is still an old Crusader site. We continued by bus through Tel Aviv to Caesarea. Here we visited an ancient city built by Herod in Roman times, of which parts such as the Hippodrome are still preserved. Then we visited Haifa, with a very good viewpoint over the city. In Akko, an ancient Crusader city, we stopped for a short visit and explored the small alleys and secrets of the medieval city. Amazing vaults and fortifications kept appearing, which is not surprising in such old cities that have been conquered and rebuilt over and over again. In the evening, we drove to our accommodation. It was located in a kibbutz. A kibbutz is a socialist-communist commune originally established as part of the settlement and development of the newly founded State of Israel. However, today in many kibbutzim, only the community spirit remains, and so there are also simple hotels in them. The bunker facilities between the dreamy cottages were alarming.

02.04.2019

A sacred day lies ahead. We went to the Sea of Galilee, where Jesus performed many miracles during his wild years. We visited Tabgha, the site of the miraculous multiplication of the loaves with the feeding of 5000 people, the mountain where the Catholic Sermon on the Mount is said to have taken place, with the church of the Beatitudes paid for by Mussolini, viewed the remains of a 2000-year-old ship from Jesus' time, and took a short boat trip on the Holy Sea. In addition, our guide took us to the Golan Heights that day to show us how close current events can sometimes take place. He showed us a mountain from which we could see the hard border with Syria and a UN security camp. Officially, Israel illegally annexed this area during the 1967 Six-Day War. However, on site, a much more complex picture always emerged, and one finds arguments for all parties involved in this more than 2000-year-old conflict over territories.

03.04.2019

We drove past the site of the miracle of the wine multiplication to Nazareth to visit the Annunciation Church. This is where the virgin Mary is said to have learned about the coming birth of Jesus from the Archangel Gabriel. Then we continued south. On the way, we visited a well-preserved mosaic floor from a synagogue about 2000 years old, which was quite trendy at the time. Jericho was also on the way, and we could catch a glimpse of the caves on a mountain where Jesus is said to have fasted and prayed for 40 days. In the oldest city in the world, we also bought tasty dates, which are abundant here. Jericho is located in the West Bank, another territory of Jordan that was illegally annexed by Israel at that time, where Palestinians still live autonomously to this day. Our Israeli guide showed us that both ethnic groups actually only want peace. However, this is very difficult with countless tribes, different perspectives on past events, deep differences in faith, etc. So the goal is to secure the status quo so that everyone can live in peace as much as possible. It is striking that progress and technology are far behind in Palestinian territories compared to what was seen in the core of Israel. In other words, it is clear that no money is being invested in these areas and that there are checkpoints and military border controls everywhere around these areas. A brief stop also showed us the spot where Jesus was baptized in the Jordan River. It was truly amazing how within a few kilometers the vegetation changed from lush green, blooming meadows to dried-up shrubs and finally to desert. Finally, we arrived at the lowest point on Earth - the Dead Sea, 400 meters below sea level - and slowly immersed ourselves in the water. You experience a strong buoyancy at about 34% salt content and float almost in the water. However, the water does not taste good and you should not get it in your face. A felt layer of oil forms on the skin, and you also do not dry out. But there is no better wellness experience, and we enjoyed the evening in the best weather.

04.04.2019

The next morning, we went to Masada. This is a mesa where Herod the Great built a fortress. In the year 70 AD, a heroic battle took place here that is part of Israel's history. The Romans besieged the fortress, on which 1000 Jews were said to have taken refuge, for several years, and after storming the fortress, they allegedly only found enemies who had already taken their own lives. The view was breathtaking, and we felt like we had arrived in the desert. We then went to Jerusalem and immediately went up the Mount of Olives, from which we had a wonderful view of the Old City and the Dome of the Rock. We also made a brief visit to Yad Vashem, a memorial for the Jewish Shoah/Holocaust. In the evening, we visited a very beautiful market, where you can find all kinds of spices, bread, halva, and everything you need for the upcoming Shabbat.

05.04.2019

Today we visited the Old City of Jerusalem. We started on Mount Zion, stood in the room of the Last Supper, entered the city, and explored the different quarters. The differences between the Armenian, Christian, Jewish, and Muslim quarters were clearly visible. It was interesting to see that all these cultures seem to live together peacefully, despite seemingly insurmountable religious differences. However, police and young soldiers with machine guns were present everywhere. Highlights in Jerusalem were places located in a small area, such as the Western Wall of the Jews, the Dome of the Rock with the Mosque of the Muslims, and the Church of the Holy Sepulchre of the Christians. The Old City is a mixture of all the sacred places of all religions, and almost every stone has its own story and holiness. We walked the Stations of the Cross with all 14 stations, squeezed through alleys overloaded with market stalls, and were simply amazed by the atmosphere that revealed itself. In the evening, we went into the city on our own. We immediately noticed that there were no public transportation and the streets were empty. The Jewish Shabbat begins on Friday evening with a dinner with family and lasts until Saturday evening. During this time, all shops are closed and observant Jews do not drive cars, make fire, etc. Depending on the level of religiosity, Jews adhere to their 613 commandments on this day. We were very surprised when we visited the ultra-Orthodox neighborhood of Mea Shearim. It presented us with a picture from a time 100 years ago. The only visible use of electricity was the street lamps. No cars, no cell phones, no technology could be seen. The streets, however, were full of traditionally dressed Jews in black with large hats, and the whole family was present. People were walking, praying, and children were playing loudly and freely in the streets.

06.04.2019

Today we visited the Israeli parliament, the Knesset, and the Israel Museum. Here, an impressive model of the city from the time of Jesus was shown, as well as the first written evidence of today's Bible stories. Then we went to Bethlehem to the alleged birthplace of Jesus, where a huge church now stands. On the way to Bethlehem, which is located in the Palestinian Autonomy Area, we drove through parts of the controversial newly established Jewish settlements and saw the newly built wall in East Jerusalem. For us, it is incomprehensible that this structure is supposed to serve security. In the evening, we had a conversation with a German-Israeli who clarified open questions and presented her view on the difficult situation in the country. Then it was time to say goodbye to everyone.

07.04.2019

After breakfast, we returned to Tel Aviv and flew home.

All in all, it was a highly interesting and packed week with endless impressions. On the one hand, I feel overwhelmed by all the holiness and the different religions in this corner of the Earth, and on the other hand, this trip contributed to a better understanding of all sides involved in current political issues. The situation on the ground is not easy and somehow almost unsolvable. However, everyone shares the desire for peace and security.