Tag 1: The view that changes

First of all, I arrived safely in Valdivia again, this time even without bribing the bus driver. It turned out to be not that difficult to get the return ticket (if you speak enough Spanish). On the way there, we only had the problem that nobody works at the bus company's information center on holidays.

Originally, we wanted to conquer the famous active volcano 'Villarica', but it is currently so active that we were forbidden to do so. The weather also didn't cooperate, it was very rainy and foggy. The tourist agencies advised us to spend the days in the hot springs here. That was too boring for us in the long run... so we put on rain gear and set off.

Day 1 Pucón - Hiking in 'El Cani'

13 km, 1400 meters of altitude

On the first day, we decided to visit the 'El Cani' national park. The name comes from the language of the Mapuche (indigenous people) and means 'The view that changes'. At the entrance, we received a beautiful waterproof map that showed the hiking trail as well as endemic plants and animals. The region is especially known for the ancient Aucarias. We learned that the highest part of the park is closed due to the weather. (A woman is said to have died there two weeks ago) We also met a Frenchman who wanted to do a hangover hike that day and started the trail. I wouldn't even have run the first 3 km with a hangover because the path led steeply uphill. The 'goal' in the national park is the famous 1500m viewpoint (Mirador) and the starting point is at 350m above sea level. I believe Marte and I didn't really know what we were getting ourselves into. But giving up is not an option, especially when someone is running ahead of you who has been up all night. So the first 500m went by in a flash. Along the way, you can refill your water bottle at 'marked' waterfalls. Then we reached the snow line, suddenly everything wet, brown, muddy turned into a white, peaceful wonderland. And I mean that literally: The nature around Pucón with the huge trees covered in moss and despite the weather, is already indescribably impressive. Then comes this change in weather and you see everything in a completely different light. The higher you climb, the more radiant it becomes. Yes, the ascent was exhausting, but at every corner, there was something new to discover, so you practically couldn't stop. After 800 meters of altitude, we reached a snow-covered refuge. Here we met 5 Chileans who were warming themselves by a fire. We joined them and ate our super fancy cheese sandwich. We couldn't stay long because if you don't move, you freeze and you miss the last bus. Unfortunately, after the refuge, we took the wrong path and wandered around a bit on an open meadow. (But it was worth it, because it presented a contrast to the surrounding forest.) Marte and I were already about to give up and descend, but then we found the right signs for the trail. We spontaneously decided to continue climbing to 'Laguna la Totoras'. Along the way, we even saw bamboo covered in snow! Here, at an altitude of 1400 meters, our final destination was located, but we had to turn back due to time constraints. The Frenchman had snowshoes with him and wanted to see a bit more of the trail, but he also had to turn back after a few steps. The descent was just as exhausting as the ascent, and the muscle soreness greeted us warmly the next day. Eventually, you reach the snow line again and so we arrived soaked and frozen at the entrance after 7 hours. We passed the time waiting for the bus with a beer. (It never tasted better) But it wasn't until a hot shower at the hostel that we felt like humans again. For dinner, we cooked rice with vegetables. (In retrospect, we lived the hiking days very very healthily and ate 'too little', which we felt in the following recovery days.)

For you, this may sound a lot like a boot camp, but believe me, I would take any weather to experience this breathtaking nature again. My 'view' has definitely changed on this hike, even if the (out)look practically didn't exist.

Since the article is already quite long, I will cut it here and report on the other days later.

Frieda (September 24th)