The last few days in Russia

So on Friday I drove back from Olkhon to Irkutsk to spend the last few days in the city or on the mainland.

The journey was eventful: Usually I'm running late, but the bus from Olkhon to Irkutsk topped my tardiness. I was already sure that I would have to spend another night on the island and then it arrives. Not a off-road bus like all the others, but a regular delivery van. I'm thinking, how is it supposed to survive these dirt roads?! But nevermind, the main thing is to get to the great hostel in Irkutsk.

When we start driving, I notice that the driver knows what he's doing. He takes every shortcut and drives fast. Will the already cracked windshield survive the journey?

After several turns and stopping in the middle of nowhere, we suddenly stop. Everyone is confused when the door opens and a guy in a Russia tracksuit and slippers (like they wear on the train) gets on. He looks completely tattered and as if he partied all night. He smells like it too...

Where he comes from, what he does? No idea... The rest of the journey is also not boring. Besides the forgotten mobile phones, which we lost half an hour of travel time for because we had to turn back, spinning tires when driving uphill, and little outbursts from the guy who got on, there is a lot of rumbling so sleeping during 7.5 hours of travel (for me, by the way, with my bent legs over the rear wheel again) is out of the question.

After this ride, I treat myself to a day off on Saturday with the usual things: washing, shopping, drinking coffee, and observing people 😉

But this morning I was supposed to go hiking by the lake. I want to leave at 8 o'clock, but I search for the bus stop until 9 o'clock. But then let's go! It's raining and completely foggy. When I arrive in Listvyanka, about 1.5 hours drive from Irkutsk, I can only assume that this is Lake Baikal behind the fog... I have set my goal to hike on the Great Baikal Trail to Bolshie Koty, a small village about 20 km away. After the 40 km on Wednesday, I should be able to do that with ease, I think. During the first 5 km steep ascent in the foggy forest or thicket, I don't encounter anyone. I'm nervous, wondering if I'm walking in the right direction, no cell phone reception... Great! Suddenly a sign and I know I'm on the right track. However, I also read that I need a permit to continue walking. No signs are ever in English, but that is! Anyway, I keep walking because if I turn back now, I won't make it in time for the ferry in Bolshie Koty, which is supposed to take me back to Irkutsk. More kilometers and still no one in sight. Now I start reading tracks. I want to know if someone was already on the trail ahead of me this morning and why I actually need a permit. Maybe something could happen and they want to know who is on the trail? Or maybe there are bears and if they have recently been sighted, the trail will be closed for a few days for safety? When you're alone in the forest in fog, you come up with some stupid thoughts...! The pepper spray in my jacket pocket gives me courage and keeps me going. I sing "All by myself" loudly and laugh at myself. And as fate would have it, a few meters further I meet a hiking group from Germany. So, there is someone on the trail after all and it is not closed because of bears! 😉

I keep walking. Now the path goes steeply downhill and out of sheer joy that everything is fine, I become careless and slip. It throws me down properly! Everything is very slippery due to the rain and fog. My thigh hurts and even the forest floor has suffered some damage, but let's keep going! It doesn't help to complain when no one is listening 😄

I go uphill, downhill, sometimes near the water, the lake looks mystical in the fog, along beaches and cliffs. After 5 hours, I reach Bolshie Koty and am happy. Too early, because I am told that I can no longer return with the ferry today (!!), everything is fully booked. What??? I am horrified and ask the lady from the ferry to help me. She clearly rejects me and shows me without words that I should leave. I understand that even without knowing Russian. Immediately it occurs to me that I have to walk back and in 3.5 hours so that I can catch the bus back to Irkutsk. No way I will make it! I imagine staying overnight in Bolshie Koty and missing the train to Mongolia on Monday morning. Shit!!

There are a few more people who also want to take the ferry. They are still discussing with the ferry staff and some are already getting physical. So it's not just me who is annoyed.

The boat is supposed to leave at 4 p.m. and after more loud shouting and much gesturing, I am called onto the ship. Not kindly asked, but demanded! I board, pay and don't ask any further questions!! Phew!

They drop me off in Listvyanka. Great, this is not Irkutsk, but at least the right direction. Now I just have to remember where the bus stopped in the morning fog to get back on there. I walk about 1.5 km when suddenly a minibus with the Cyrillic inscription "Irkutsk" comes towards me. Before I can mope that the bus is leaving without me, I raise my arms and wave. Maybe it helps?! And actually, the bus stops a few meters further and I am allowed to board. Hallelujah! 1.5 hours later in Irkutsk, I'm happy that I'm back from today's hike with just a bruise on my leg! 😄 What a hassle!

Tomorrow I have plenty of time to rest: My train to Mongolia leaves at 8:13 a.m. This time it will only take about 23 hours...