V džungli, v mocnej džungli, dnes večer loví jaguár...

10.10.-13.10

The journey continued westwards, into the deep jungle of Bolivia. As a big animal lover (and a fan of all documentaries with David Attenborough!!), I was really excited for the 4-day jungle adventure in Madidi National Park!! But first, I had to take a taxi to Yolosita, which was about 10 kilometers away from Coroico. I didn't want to miss the bus, so I left too early, as usual (…good thing the bus was "only" 2 hours late…:)).

So there I was - alone, loaded with bags (a day pack in the front, a big backpack in the back), and feeling a bit lost in this small, uncomfortable Yolosita. Besides a few rundown food stalls, a police border post (?) and way too many cars/buses crowded together, there wasn't much to explore. I couldn't find anywhere to sit (no space, too wet/dirty, out of sight from the buses) because I didn't want to miss the bus. The only problem was, I didn't know which bus it was. They all looked the same to me (no signs, no timetables, etc.). Also, like so many times before, I didn't have any cell phone/internet reception, and the sparse information from the (moderately motivated, half-likeable) police officers didn't help either. Luckily, I later met two backpackers who seemed to be in the same situation (unfortunately stranded in the middle of nowhere) and were also going to Rurrenabaque. They had reception and were able to contact the bus agency, so things started to make sense slowly.

After what felt like a thousand years, the bus finally arrived, and off we went to Rurrenabaque, which was about 334 km away. As I mentioned in the previous blog, I wasn't looking forward to the necessary 12-hour bus ride (on narrow mountain roads full of potholes) that awaited me. In my mind, I imagined a cramped, hot and stuffy bus with old, hard leather seats. Fortunately, it wasn't as bad as I thought :). It was an older Camabus (= "bed bus") that was a bit stuffy and unfortunately didn't have a working toilet (very nice!!), but to my surprise, it was more comfortable (I actually managed to sleep!) than I expected/dreaded. Somehow, the slow, rumbling noise of the engine accompanied by the dimmed lights had a calming effect on me… (maybe it was also because I couldn't get any sleep the night before due to an involuntary participation in a loud and long jungle rave party in Coroica).

A bit tired and slightly tense (see pictures), but full of excitement for the jungle trip, I finally arrived in Rurrenabaque after about 13.5 hours. Rurre", as it's called here, is not worth mentioning… It serves most travelers as a gateway to the eco-lodges in Madidi National Park, which can be reached by boat (see photos). The approximately 18,000 square kilometer Madidi National Park is home to 1,000 native bird species and 44% of all mammal species in North and South America, etc. etc. As a fan of animals and nature and inspired by numerous documentaries about the famous Amazon rainforest and its biodiversity, I was hoping to see an overwhelming fauna. Unfortunately, I was a bit disappointed in this regard. Of course, the treks in the rainforest were already very impressive, but secretly, I was hoping to see more animals :(. (yes, I know, I'm complaining on a high level, sorry!!). We did see different birds, insects, spiders, and monkeys, but often from a distance where we could only see their outlines (even though our tour guide repeatedly tried to attract animals with animal sounds :):). Well, it was still an exciting adventure that I wouldn't want to miss. Just the fact of being completely cut off from the outside world (no internet connection, only 4 hours of electricity in the evening) was a special experience. Since yesterday, I've been back in Rurrenabaque. I'm planning to make a stop in Trinidad next and then continue towards Santa Cruz.