27.12.19 Cape Palliser & Back Country Roads to Castlepoint

I woke up shortly after 6 and was sitting behind the wheel heading towards Cape Palliser just 20 minutes later. This is the southernmost point of the North Island, and I've always wanted to come here. The drive from Ngawi, where I stayed at a free spot, partly goes over a gravel road, sometimes only wide enough for 1 car, until the end of the road.

The sun was shining its very best, and the light right after sunrise is just a dream. The mountains here are very barren, with dark beaches, all deserted.

The wind up here at the lighthouse almost blows the camera out of my hand, but this panoramic view, this deep blue sky, the solitude at this hour - simply fantastic. A bit frozen, I descend the 270 steps again. I actually could have stayed overnight right here at the foot of the stairs. The spot in Ngawi wasn't the best, mainly because of the condition of the toilets. Here, I would have been completely alone, including a public toilet that would have been cleaner...

So I drive back towards Ngawi and stop at a bay where I can see lots of seals sunbathing. The seals in the Cape Palliser Seal Colony can be seen at several locations, lazily lying on the rocks and in the grass in the sun. Except for me, there's only an older lady with a mobile phone here, trying to get a signal. She lives up the hill from the bay, where there is no network. Alternatively, she could climb the lighthouse... She's just trying to reach her sister. I imagine it can be quite frustrating to have to walk here in the winter or rain, only to find out that there's no network here either. And that's the case today, and she has to walk back on the trail, where a bored sea lion is lying across it.

I pass through Ngawi again and am amused by the rows of excavators and tractors that pull the boats ashore for coastal fishing. Funny, I haven't seen that anywhere else in the world.

I then drove further north today, through the back country roads. It was so lovely ❤️.

In the pretty town of Martinborough, I had a coffee at 10:30am because breakfast was skipped today. The spot where I stayed in Ngawi last night wasn't great, so I left in the morning. Maybe everyone is already thinking it's strange that I'm constantly filming my journey, but it's just so beautiful here (videos can only be seen on Polarsteps in my blog: https://www.polarsteps.com/VeeBee3/2825533-new-zealand-north-island-dec2019-jan2020).

From the initially barren mountains at Cape Palliser, I later pass through the wine region behind Martinborough.

And further on, as the vineyards become fewer and the sheep become more, suddenly endless pine forests come into view, until I - quite strained by the storm - arrive in Castle Point. I've seen such beautiful landscapes, driven another 600 curves, and today I've reached 2000km since I left Auckland on the 18th of December.

In the last 30km, it looks like Canada. All slopes covered with pine forests. Now another 5km of curves and then I'm at the Pacific. I have a parking spot right above the endless bay with a view of the lighthouse.

The town of Castlepoint is not really noticeable. There is a general store, but it doesn't even sell a banana. So, no fruit at all... but 3 ice cream freezers! 😂 Apparently, ice cream on a stick is in higher demand... My walk to the town center leads from behind my camper along the beach until I reach the main road through the 'town' about 300m further.

I continue along the small road at the bay and end up at a huge sand pit. Cars also park here during low tide, and only during this time can you reach the pathway to the lighthouse on the other side. The way up there becomes a real challenge as the wind by now should be gale-force gusts, and at times I cling to the railing with both hands.

The rocks next to the pathway are bound with billions of fossilized shells all the way to the top. The view of the bay and the coast to the north is simply magnificent.

Completely sandblasted, I'm back at my camper at 5:30pm, which is shaking like a lambs tail in the storm. Sitting outside is definitely out of the question, and I'm glad that I have a camper with standing height and an indoor kitchen. There are cheaper campers that are lower, where the cooler box, portable gas stove, and all storage compartments are in the rear, and you can only access them by standing outside under the open hatch. I'm sitting comfortably in my camper, the wind is howling mercilessly, but I have coffee and later something to eat within arm's reach :-D

I initially considered staying here for another day, but I'm drawn further north, and tonight the storm is supposed to ease. Driving with this 2.70m high vehicle is quite exhausting in such windy conditions, especially since New Zealanders are very rude drivers and constantly tailgate you.

However, there are hardly any passing lanes, so I constantly have some idiot hanging on my tail - and this on these winding roads. If it were just as stormy tomorrow, I wouldn't have driven, as the route is quite prone to gusts of wind coming from the surrounding hills. That was quite mean. Well, I've talked enough for today. The sunset in 30 minutes seems to be canceled. I hope I can sleep in this shaky thing tonight. It's certainly better than the guys who, almost one hour ago, unsuccessfully tried to set up their tent 🏕 and now, in desperation, just threw a car tire onto the unpacked tent and have to sleep in their car 🤣