82./83. Day - Sept. 28/29: After the northern route to Kirklareli.

Early in the morning, I was awakened by the oriental street noise that seeped into my room through the windows and weak walls. After a long day of research the day before, my bike route to Istanbul was now set. The main highway 03 was off-limits, of course. The almost parallel four-lane state road D 100 was bikeable, but in some comments from German cyclists, I found descriptions like 'Never again' or 'very dangerous'. The third main route is the state road D 020 from Edirne to Istanbul - the so-called northern route. It is about 80 kilometers longer, but according to the description of a German cyclist, it is less busy and also more scenic. So I decided to take this route.

Like on over 80 days before, I packed my things and set off. As a safety measure, I attached a crossbar with a small white flag to the rear rack of my bike, so that drivers and trucks are forced to pass me with at least 1 meter of distance. Although I had to go through the loud bustle of the main road in Edirne once again, after 7km I reached my chosen route and rode the first 20km on barely used roads. The sun was scorching hot, but only a few minutes passed before a car passed me. The landscape was very hilly, constantly going up and down, but always in a way that I didn't have to push. There were hardly any trees to be seen. This section was very barren and reminded me more of a steppe.

In a larger village, I stopped for lunch and visited a tea house. Of course, I was the attraction for the older Turkish men with my bike. Then a man who spoke some German came and told me about his job in Germany, and we had a conversation. Then he drove away on his quad. When I wanted to pay at the counter, it was made clear to me that my tea had already been paid for. I thanked them for their hospitality and continued cycling.

After the first 20km, the road became a bit more 'lively' again. Because even the two-lane D 020 is being expanded into a modern four-lane road at many places. However, there was always an almost 1.5m to 2.0m wide shoulder where I could ride safely. I took a break in the shade of a bridge and had a drink, as it was over 30 degrees again.

My plan was to ride until just before the provincial capital of Kirklareli in the north and find a campsite in the open nature there. That's why I turned off onto a small side road 15km before Kirklareli. I went through a village again and wanted to have tea. Once again, someone spoke German and had worked in Germany. When I wanted to pay, the same thing happened again. My conversation partner just said, 'You are my guest, I will pay for your tea'. I felt a bit uneasy in that role, after all, I come from a rich country. About 8 km before the city, I found a campsite on the edge of a field with a beautiful view of the barren landscape in the setting evening sun. I set up my tent, cooked my meal, and soon went to sleep. It was not an option to surf the internet for a while because the mobile surfing costs 5 euros for 50MB. After about 15 minutes, the 50MB would be used up.

The next morning, the morning sun woke me up early from my sleeping bag. I was dressed too warmly and started to sweat. I packed up and started riding. In a village café before the city, the same thing happened again: a retiree who had worked in Germany and told a lot of stories, and who paid for my tea in advance. I wanted to pay myself, but it wasn't possible.

Already in the morning, I arrived in the provincial capital of Kirklareli. There was a problem to solve. Finding a shop where I could buy a gas cartridge for my stove. I must have visited at least 6-7 different hardware stores, but nowhere could I find a cartridge and no one knew where I could buy one. Finally, a young man took me to a fishing store and there I could buy a suitable screw-in cartridge. But there was only one. This should now last until Istanbul, when I camp outdoors and cook my meals.

In a not so noisy café, I checked the details of my route for the next two days via the WLAN network. Shortly before 1 pm, I arrived at my affordable hotel (24 euros), but with a higher standard. Everything gleamed cleanly on the marble stairs and the room also had a table and chair and a spotlessly clean bathroom.

I got into a conversation again with the man at the reception, who also spoke some German. He was very friendly and wanted to call Turkish Airlines for me to inquire about transporting a bicycle.

In the afternoon, I visited the interesting historical museum with numerous finds such as vases, amphorae, and everyday objects from the surrounding area. The coin collection with coins from four different historical periods was particularly valuable. I recognized several Christian motifs from the Byzantine period. Unfortunately, there was no church in the city. Especially no Protestant one. Then I made a short visit to the Ataturk Museum, which is dedicated to the state founder Kemal Ataturk. He is considered the father of modern Turkey as it exists today. He rejected a headscarf requirement, so you see more women without headscarves than with them.

In the evening, I looked for a snack stand and found a live music club where a young couple sang live. I ate something and listened to the music. Unfortunately, only a few visitors paid attention to and appreciated the musicians. 

Then I went back to the hotel and researched once again for a long time about my options for the return journey to Germany. Although it would be possible by train, I found no information about whether I could take my bike on the train from Istanbul to Germany. Flixbus offers this option only in the summer. So the only option left is a flight. The option I least desire, and I fell asleep somewhat uncertain whether I can take my bike on the plane.