Don Curry goes for a swim

Don Curry knows that such a headline is practically a given when vacationing in Turkey, something that doesn't even need to be mentioned, just like no one needs to mention that the day is bright or the night is dark. But Don Curry is not traveling through Turkey, but through Asia Minor, more specifically through Anatolia, where swimming is not necessarily the focus, but rather visiting, admiring, and enjoying...

And that's exactly how the day began. Don Curry had already read about the abundant breakfast buffet at the Venus Suite Hotel, but reality exceeded all expectations. There were at least 10 fully stocked tables and shelves with a variety of delicious foods. Don Curry counted 7 different types of olives, 8 different fresh herbs, 8 different jams, and at least 10 types of fruit. He also discovered fruit juices for breakfast, 4 different varieties. With such a selection, even Don Curry became a breakfast gourmet.

The enjoyment continued. Don Curry rearranged the day's itinerary so that the highlight, Hierapolis-Pamukkale, would be the last stop. So he first headed to the ruins of Laodikeia. The excavations there began only 19 years ago, so Don Curry expected a compact and unimpressive sightseeing program. Instead, he was able to admire a remarkably well-preserved and extensive Greek-Roman city that offered unexpected highlights. In addition to the several hundred meter long colonnaded "Syrian Street," the large church, where the Council of Laodicea once met and significant parts of the mosaic floor are still preserved, was particularly surprising. However, before entering the church ruins, Don Curry was puzzled by a sign that prohibited three things: high heels, loud talking, and religious worship; crossed-out praying hands symbolized the latter prohibition.

At the Agora, one of the outer boundary walls had been reconstructed, with the inside adorned with colorful remnants of frescoes - something Don Curry had never seen in any ancient city ruins before. As an experienced theater critic, he had the opportunity to appreciate two examples of this type, one of which offered a good view of the travertine terraces of Pamukkale in the background. Excavations were still ongoing throughout the site, with numerous archaeologists and students working on various projects simultaneously. There was likely much more to be discovered and reconstructed, so Laodicea could eventually become one of the country's most important attractions.

Not far from Laodicea is another city that is primarily known for its early Christian community and the visit of Paul: Colossae. No excavations have been conducted there so far, so Don Curry climbed a mighty hill and discovered some stones in the ground that could possibly be carved, but there was nothing else to see besides the idyllic surroundings. Were there still unexpected treasures waiting to be discovered here?

Originally, the plan was to visit the Ottoman caravanserai of Akkhan, but since there was a hotel of the same name in Pamukkale, the GPS led Don Curry there, which he only noticed too late. It didn't matter, as the GPS was also eagerly anticipating the arrival at the actual highlight.

First, Don Curry drove to the foot of the snow-white travertine terraces, where about a hundred geese lived in a park-like landscape with a large lake. The Turkish families eagerly fulfilled the demands of the honking feathered creatures.

Don Curry saw numerous people high up on the terraces. That's where he wanted to go as well. However, he had considered not starting the ascent from the village, but instead driving to the upper parking lot and then walking to the terraces through the ruins of Hierapolis. And there, at the terraces, would be his swimming spot, a very special pool. Don Curry had already thought ahead and bought himself a shoulder bag in Troy, so that he could comfortably carry his swimsuit and towel in Pamukkale. The Museum Pass had already saved him 13 € in admission fees and had now fully amortized itself.

A staff member of the site pointed out to him at the entrance that he could ride directly to the pool for 70 cents. But Don Curry wanted to walk, as the necropolis of Hierapolis already began here, with hundreds of sarcophagi, burial structures, and even tumuli. He greatly underestimated the size of the enormous site, so he was required to embark on a full-fledged hike through the ruins and over extremely uneven ancient roads and paths. With his last bit of strength, he climbed up to the grand theater, which could only be entered from above today. Don Curry immediately understood the reason when he looked down from the upper tiers onto the stage. A part of an Italian reality show for couples was being filmed there. 10 couples with backpacks stood next to each other, while a host led the program and at least 12 cameramen with their cameras constantly filmed each couple, the host, and the overall situation; later, the extensive footage would be edited into something broadcastable. Don Curry didn't understand much of the host's Italian instructions, but gradually he gave each couple a starting signal, upon which they quickly ran away with their backpacks through the rows of seats. After the escape of the last couple, the cameramen packed up their equipment and the whole spectacle ended, allowing Don Curry to finally photograph the theater and stage undisturbed.

He continued uphill, as his next destination was originally located above the city: the Church of St. Philip with the tomb of the apostle who died a martyr's death in Hierapolis. Not much was left of the church, but the tomb was well-preserved. Don Curry descended towards his bathing destination, the Antique Pool, via an original staircase from the 4th century. It was a large basin filled with the 36°C warm mineral thermal water of Pamukkale, with column remnants and other artifacts from Hierapolis creating a unique atmosphere. Despite the high price of 10 € for bathing, Don Curry would have liked to take a dip if it hadn't been too crowded already. Swimming would have been extremely difficult because he would constantly bump into someone. So instead, Don Curry treated himself to an ice cream and made his way to the travertine terraces. They could only be walked on without shoes. Don Curry took off his sandals, put them in his Trojan shoulder bag, rolled up his pant legs, and waded through the first two shallow pools. Pleasantly warm water enveloped his feet, but many small stones in the pools made walking unbearable over time. So he soon turned back and searched for other perspectives for impressive photos of this unique natural landscape. After visiting the Hierapolis Museum, he returned to the Antique Pool, which had become even more crowded.

Did Don Curry need to change the title of the day? Maybe to "Don Curry takes a little dip in the water"? No, the good intention was there the whole time, and Don Curry did indeed bathe his feet in the thermal water. And on a metaphorical level, Don Curry's goal of going for a swim still failed.

He took an electric vehicle for 70 cents back to his parking lot and soon returned to his hotel. Since lunch had been skipped today, he treated himself to a mixed grill platter with köfte, chicken skewers, lamb skewers, chicken wings, and a small piece of beef steak (of the rather tough kind), along with risotto, French fries, grilled tomato, sauces, and salad, accompanied by Tuborg and followed by raki - all for the price of 2 times bathing...