28.11.: Ji Parana / Rondonia

28.11.:

'the express train, the express train is chasing her!'

from childhood I know the radio play about the elderly steam locomotive 1414, which is sent on vacation by its train driver for a night. It can go on a journey without a driver and experiences life-threatening adventures. It is inevitable in this story that she accidentally ends up on the main track and gets in the way of the express train. But fortunately, she finds a switch that leads her to a siding.

Heavy traffic is more present today than usual. The fully loaded and oversized mega trucks use the curveless transoceanica and thunder towards their destination at high speeds. They slow down in the mountains, but when it goes downhill, they show no mercy. That's why I feel like the locomotive 1414 being chased by the express train. There is no escape route here, only keeping up.

I could make enemies out of them and slow down on the uphill. By the time they regain their normal speed, I would have disappeared far beyond the horizon. But I don't do that. They would inform each other via radio and I would be left behind.

Today, too, I don't feel any Amazonas feelings. The Rio Jamari continues to dominate the landscape with its tributaries. I even see a couple of rice fields. But then we leave the river. There are gentle slopes, forested areas, lush green mountain slopes that reveal their red soil in many places. This is where the leisurely drive ends because the chase begins. The Vepse keeps going strong, with the tailwind giving it extra power.

I make a fuel stop and the truck behind me gallops down the valley howling. Unfortunately, the opening of the cut-off bottle is too big, so I have to abandon this good idea for now. Maybe the opening of the 0.5L bottles is small enough. Time will tell.

It happened twice today that I was photographed. I am asked politely and then we become the center of attention. The first one is a large landowner type. Gringo, spoiled by success, with his son who will one day follow in his father's footsteps. But he's not the type for that. Rather reserved. At almost the same time, a non-Gringo joins, showing very different and more modest ways of interacting. The contrast between these two people is quite impressive.

I can piece together the questions that come up and simply answer them, even if I don't understand the question. Most of the time it fits. If not, I can tell by the conversation ending abruptly.

But most of the time they are patient and it seems like they also understand Spanish. They could even speak it...

The distance signs to the next towns are quite sparse on the transoceanica. Actually a pity, I could plan better and maybe motivate myself.

So I'm glad that it's only 20 km to Ji Parana. Just before that, I take a break. I don't know what to expect in Ji Parana and don't want to arrive there hungry. Brazilian empanadas are delicious and calorie bombs, as they are mostly deep-fried. But they fill you up, one is more than enough anyway.

I keep noticing that there is no more food available in the simple restaurants in the evening. At least in the rural areas. Lunch is offered everywhere. That doesn't fit into my daily plan. And I don't leave early enough to be really hungry by then. 10:00 am is starting to establish itself as the starting time. Since the Brazilian breakfast - even in the motels - is very abundant, the real hunger only sets in in the afternoon. A solution will be found over time.

The search for a hotel is difficult.

I still don't have a sim card for my smartphone. Buying one was easy in Peru. Here, I can only get it if I can provide a CPF number. I'm waiting for Nora's tip.

Because then I could orient myself more easily using the iOverlander platform.

There will also be a solution for that.

Finally, a motorcyclist leads me here. It is a cobblestone street, many trees provide sufficient shade, one small hotel is next to the other.

On the way here, I notice a vehicle with the current president's sticker on the trunk at a red traffic light. Fortunately, only the second time while I'm here.

Here I stay for 45 reals (10.30 euros). Private room with bathroom. The only disadvantage: the bus station is opposite, but I am spared in my room.

The hotel couple takes the language difficulties with humor. And so do I. And yet, the senor tells me endless stories that I can't even begin to understand.

One peculiarity, not only in Brazil, is the importance of toilet paper. If the guest is lucky, it is placed on the bed along with the soap and towel. Otherwise, he has to ask for it. That's what happened to me today. With the term "papel" alone, nobody can make sense of it. Finally, the senora figures it out and explains to me that the addition of "higienico" must not be missing.

I am looking forward to a good fruit salad. It is drowning in artificial cream...

But the farewell beer is delicious. The atmosphere is pub-like and loud. The guests are already quite cheerful...

I sit in the background and listen to Brazilian popular music again.