Of Devils, Drums and Trumpets

We had the great fortune of going to La Diablada with Natali and her classmates - a festival in Pillaro, a small town southeast of Ambato. La Diablada is celebrated in Bolivia, Peru, Chile, and Ecuador, and each country tells its own story explaining the origin of this tradition. In Pillaro, it is explained that after the end of the colonial era, people disguised themselves as aristocratic Spaniards who were protected by devils while dancing. Symbolically, the devils represent the oppression and suffering that the population endured during Spanish rule.

Many communities in Pillaro form their own groups of aristocrats and devils, who then parade through the town and put on their spectacle. The masks differ from each other - in some communities, the masks made of papier-mâché are decorated with horns of various animals, others have large hats made of fur, and yet others have big hats with colorful plastic fringes in addition to the masks... The masks are elaborately designed and decorated down to the smallest detail. The devils' equipment must not be missing: big whips, chili peppers, scepters made from preserved goat feet and turkey heads - even stuffed rats equipped with wings and horns...

After meeting Natali's friends, we went to the village of Natali's classmates, two of whom were also dressed as devils and took part in the Diablada. Brass music, schnapps, and a few locals awaited us upon arrival. Gradually, more and more devils arrived until everyone was complete, and they danced into town with music and fireworks, where the party (with an indefinite end) continued...