13.10.2016 Culloden Battlefield - Chanonry Point

When we woke up this morning it is beautiful weather again. The light here in Scotland is unique! Sun and clouds create a special light and atmosphere.

We drive through spectacular landscapes again today. Again only a few photos from inside the motorhome, but they at least give an impression.

Our first destination today is Culloden Battlefield. On April 16, 1746, the Jacobites under Prince Charles Edward Stewart were defeated here. The Jacobites wanted to restore the Stewart line to the English throne, which the English had given to the Hanoverians because the Stewarts were Catholic. There were a total of 5 Jacobite uprisings, and the Battle of Culloden finally sealed the fate of the Stewarts. After they lost in Culloden, the Duke of Cumberland (also called Butcher Cumberland) ensured that the clans were destroyed and the culture of the Highlanders was oppressed. It was forbidden to wear a kilt, speak Gaelic or play the bagpipes. Only two generations later were these bans relaxed, and since then the customs that were once tradition have become mere folklore in the Highlands.

The battlefield is as flat as a board and marshy. One can well imagine how the Highlanders helplessly ran against the English cannons and had no chance at all. Almost 2000 Highlanders died in the battle, which lasted only an hour.

Here too, there is an Outlander reference. A true story from back then gave Jamie Fraser his name. Several injured officers took refuge in this cottage. They were found the next day and all shot, but one of the officers, from the Fraser Clan of Lovat, escaped the execution. This circumstance gave Diana Gabaldon the idea to name her male main character Fraser and of course he is the officer in her novel who escapes Culloden.

After Culloden we continue to Inverness, where we do not stop and then on to the 'Black Isle' peninsula. There I read that there is the best opportunity in Europe to see dolphins from the shore. So we definitely have to go there! We find a nice campsite only about 2 km from 'Chanonry Point', where you are supposed to be able to see the dolphins and the owner of the campsite tells us that our chances are best tonight around 6 o'clock. The dolphins usually come into the bay about an hour after low tide.

Until then we have some time, so we go to the village first. It is not particularly remarkable, but there is an interesting cathedral from the 12th century.

After our walk we have a cup of tea and then we set off for Chanonry Point - as always, much too early. But how lucky that we are early! Shortly after 5 already, about an hour earlier than expected, we see 3 dolphins swimming through the bay. They are very close to the shore and we can see them clearly! However, none of us takes a photo, we are too fascinated and the few minutes are too precious.

After that, we wait in vain for more dolphins, but we are accompanied by small seals. Especially one comes very close to the shore and is very curious. He keeps sticking his head out of the water!

We stay until almost sunset, just after 6 o'clock, but then it gets too cold for us and we make our way home. What a great experience! When else can you see dolphins and seals in the wild! We are completely fascinated.

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