From Lake Victoria to the Indian Ocean

English version below (Bryan had fun reading and editing the blog in English so that I can tell the stories correctly)

I hope you had a great Christmas and a happy New Year. I look forward to meeting you somewhere in Germany or elsewhere again from mid-March!

After traveling from the north to the south with Muli, I headed west for Christmas and then ended the year on the east coast.

This year, Christmas for me was without a Christmas tree, Christmas carols, cookies, and a nativity play, but it was still special and beautiful. I was very lucky that Bryan took me to his family for Christmas. He spontaneously invited me in October when we met at the guesthouse in Kakuma. Opening the door to a stranger - that's what Christmas is all about.
So we drove from Nairobi with his 2 brothers to the east to spend a few days on his parents' farm. Although it was supposed to be only a 6-hour trip, we spent the whole day in the car. But we also stopped at every beautiful spot and enjoyed the nature around us without any hurry.

The time was very relaxed. We walked and drove around a lot. The farm is beautifully located on a wild river and the boys showed me their chill spots.

We also went to Kisumu on Lake Victoria. Once we were there for the sunset, which looked amazing, but when we turned around, dark storm clouds were waiting. We ate at a restaurant that was a metal structure in the water. It started pouring rain, then the power went out, and the lightning and thunder made me shiver. Especially because I had in my head that in a thunderstorm, neither metal, nor water, nor the combination is a good thing :D

On Christmas Eve, the alarm went off at 5 am. We drove to Malinya, Kakamega County, to watch a bullfight. A total of 8 bulls fought each other in pairs. Thousands of people watched, danced, and made the bulls go wild. The bulls probably also got weed to get high for the fight. (The source for that is not quite certain.) For many people, it's about money because bets are placed on the bulls and the police are basically the betting office. Since there were so many people in the field, sometimes you searched in vain for the bulls until they suddenly were very close to you. I admit, there were a few scary moments. You don't want to look into the eyes of a wild bull.

After the bullfight, we went to a basketball tournament where Bryan's youngest brother played. Of course, we didn't miss a Skype session to Germany, so I could at least look at the cookies even if I couldn't eat them.

In the evening, we were in Kisumu, a city right by Lake Victoria. There we celebrated Christmas in a club with a countdown at midnight...

The next morning, we also missed church, but Jesus was born in a stable, so maybe I was even at the right place on the farm 😉 On December 25th, it is tradition to have carol singing contests in the churches, but we also missed those. In the evening, there was a Christmas dinner with the family with turkey and sooo much different meat. I tell you, the transition back to being vegan will be tough.

Bryan's family gave me the most beautiful Christmas and a real feeling of home. It was really cool to have three brothers here. And whenever they accidentally spoke Swahili, one of them always said, 'Let's include Franky!', which was very considerate.

For the last few days of 2022, I traveled alone by train all the way to the east to the Indian Ocean. The route was incredibly beautiful, and I even spotted an elephant next to the tracks.

In Mombasa, Bryan's family was also there, so the fun continued. Two friends from Nairobi joined us and we ended the year on the beach and went to an Amapiano festival in the middle of a forest for New Year's Eve. South African House made us all very happy for the new year.

Now, after countless hours and thousands of kilometers by car, train, and matatus, I am back in Kakuma. I actually wanted to travel with Muli by 2 matatus, but Bryan and Mark happened to be making half of the journey on the same day and gave us a ride. We didn't arrive in Kakuma until half past six in the evening, and since there were no more matatus to Kakuma, we spent the night there. Our stopover in Kapenguria was not a pleasant one. In the evening, I was able to gain insights into a "sad party" (in Kiswahili: Matanga). A good friend of my travel companions passed away at a very young age. In the evening before the funeral, friends, neighbors, and family gather with good music, bonfires, and food for everyone in the family's garden. Some stay the whole night. The next day, the funeral takes place in the garden. For most Kenyans, the deceased is buried on the family's property and everyone can see them one last time. And although the reason for gathering is so sad, I found the atmosphere incredibly beautiful and the community very supportive. Rest in Power Phoolish!
So if I ever die, have a sad party for me and celebrate life.

In the last matatu ride to Kakuma, Muli and I sat almost in despair as the green colors were disappearing more and more. This drought is affecting our bodies and our psyche. But arriving in Kakuma was beautiful. So many open arms, happy faces, small conversations on the street. And the guesthouse with Fatuma really feels like coming home.

The break from research was good, and I feel like I understand many things better and feel more comfortable and familiar with Kenya. The last 3 weeks were full of wonderful people and friendships, breathtaking landscapes, and so many moments of laughter that will be remembered. I am infinitely grateful.

Love, Frankie

----- ENGLISH VERSION ----