Antigua Guatemala or shortly 'Antigua' is the former capital of Guatemala, founded by the Spanish colonizers.
In the Highlands of Guatemala, the small town is located amidst three volcanoes. In the forefront, the gigantic 'Volcán de Agua' silently watches over the sleepy colonial town. However, their long-standing relationship has often been anything but easy.
For over 200 years, Antigua flourished and developed as the political and economic center of Central America. However, the beautiful location turned out to be its downfall: over the years, earthquakes and eruptions have claimed numerous victims. In 1773, an earthquake destroyed the entire city, sealing the decision to move the capital 45 kilometers to the east, to what is now Guatemala City, in a safer area.
Antigua slowly recovered but managed to avoid urbanization and retain its colonial charm. Today, the city, declared a World Heritage Site, shines in all its splendor. However, the numerous scars make it clear that the appearance of the peacefully sleeping city is deceiving.
Earthquakes and eruptions have left their mark
Day of the Dead
On the 'Día de los Muertos', the dead are said to come to earth to visit their families for a day.
What may seem strange or even creepy at first actually embodies a beautiful worldview and understanding of death. The Day of the Dead is not a mourning event but rather a colorful folk festival.
In addition to usually friendly illustrated skulls, colorful flowers are also part of the decoration - the blooming life in contrast to transience. The indigenous people of the Americas did not view death as an end, but rather as a transition to new life.
As the country of origin, Mexico is worldwide known for the Day of the Dead. However, here in Guatemala, its direct neighbor, we were able to witness a very similar spectacle.
And yes, the cemeteries really come to life! Not because skeletons actually come out of the graves, but because the whole city gathers at the cemetery to celebrate and remember.
'Festival de los barriletes gigantes'
On the first of November, we went to the village of Sumpango to be part of a great spectacle around the Day of the Dead: the festival of the giant kites.
For the day, the football field was turned into a kite flying field.
We also tried...
From afar, it was already clear what the organizers meant by 'giant': with a height of up to 18 meters, the kites erected on a bamboo structure towered over the entire village and especially over the gathered crowd of people. Associations had put months of work, mass amounts of bamboo sticks, transparent paper, and strings into the construction of kites of different sizes.
In the afternoon, it became exciting: daring flight attempts were made with the kites, some of them up to four meters in size.
Not entirely without danger, as the whole square was full of people and sooner or later, each of the objects would crash into the crowd. But for the locals, the potential danger seemed to enhance the fun. Based on the beauty of the colorful motives and flight time, a jury selected a winner in each category.
Just before the startThe colorful kites are not only meant to scare away evil spirits, but they also have a great symbolic meaning and are directly related to the 'Día de los Muertos', as we would later learn at the cemetery. Like the dead, they break through the barrier between heaven and earth for a day - one is very close to heaven.
Touching scenes
Not far from the football field is the cemetery, which was anything but peaceful on this day and yet radiated peace and harmony.
Colorful remembrance
The families gathered on and around the graves to consume the food they had brought with them together with the deceased. In some places, the modest graves of less affluent families were almost unrecognizable in a sea of flowers. The occasional tear was shed, although the overall mood was very positive and respectful.
A music group went from grave to grave, playing gentle songs about death and love. Children ran around everywhere and let small kites soar into the sky, like free souls flying through the air.
The setting sun bathed the whole scene in golden light, a truly magical moment.
Away from the commercial nonsense of Halloween, we were able to witness very touching moments. We are very grateful to have been able to closely follow the whole event. What a beautiful way to deal with death. We definitely like the idea that maybe one day our grandchildren could fly kites on our graves.
With the setting sun, it is said, the dead gradually leave the earth again. Adiós, until next year!
