Maxxanfame: 21.11.2016
Due to the great view that awaited us on a bus ride from Mendoza to Valparaiso, we chose not to take a night bus, but instead started in the morning at 8:30 am.
Joachim, the Norwegian, also wanted to go there. So the trip became more enjoyable.
It takes about 6 hours of driving time for the approximately 400 kilometers. In addition, there is the time needed to cross the border, including controls and document processing.
First, we passed the lake that we visited! Then we saw some ski lifts. Old relics that were probably still in operation in winter! However, TÜV-Rheinland should not take a company outing there.
We slowly continued uphill! Past raging rivers, streams, different rock formations, snow remains, and a beautiful landscape. The highest point at just under 3000 meters above sea level was reached at the border. We lined up behind numerous buses. Cars, motorcycles, and trucks each had their own lane.
We waited for almost 2 hours until it was our turn. Everyone with their hand luggage got off the bus. Processing of documents, screening of hand luggage and backpacks, back on the bus and off we went.
After a total of 3 hours at the border, we were finally allowed to pass.
First, we drove down numerous serpentine turns. What was very impressive from above.
After that, it continued less spectacularly, so we could sleep a little!
After a total of 9 hours, we finally reached Valparaiso!
The city is said to be one of the pearls of South America and was the most important port in the South Pacific before the opening of the Panama Canal.
It has around 300,000 inhabitants.
And it was truly a gem. Valparaiso touched my heart! A city that is probably not to everyone's taste. There was no house or building wall that was not painted in bright colors. Sometimes less beautiful, sometimes ugly, but mostly beautiful, imaginative, artistic masterpieces. If you love graffiti, this is the place for you! The historic city center is part of the UNESCO World Heritage!
Sometimes it is probably better to let pictures speak for themselves:
Even my accommodation, the 'Hostel PataPata', was very colorful. You feel very comfortable here. Surprisingly, there were mostly French guests in the hostel! Which probably also has to do with the fact that Noemi, Louise, and Paul, 3 French people, were working there for a few months! I have never spoken to French people who spoke perfect English. Also, it's not surprising that they were very talented artists. Louise even has her own beautiful graffiti not far from the hostel.
By chance, I found out that a game in the Chilean Primera Division was supposed to take place despite the international break. Perfectly in Valparaiso. Santiago Wanderers against Universidad Conception!
When I asked Louise for directions, she was very surprised that the game was supposed to be today. Since she and Paul wanted to attend a game and they had their free afternoon, they joined me. I also managed to convince Englishman Andrew to join us.
Yes, football again! 😉
We took the bus to the stadium and found out that strangely there were no tickets to buy at the stadium and we should go back to the city center to buy them there.
But a steward wanted to help us and let us pass after we had already bought one ticket from someone, after showing our IDs. Without paying any entrance fee. The one ticket cost us 3000 Chilean pesos, which is about 4 €!
The Estadio Elías Figueroa Brander was, like in Argentina, uncovered, but it appeared to be very well maintained! It was located on a slope and we had a direct view of the slums behind the grandstand.
Approximately 3000 spectators were present - 19,000 can fit in.
A group of about 500 people supported the team throughout the game, typically South American, with a lot of enthusiasm! Great songs with presumably interesting lyrics!
The game, 13th against last place, was absolute mediocrity and reminded me many times of a team from Germany that is teetering on the edge of the fourth division.
Thanks to a penalty and an individual action, the home team won somewhat luckily. Which boosted the mood even more.
Andrew and I amused ourselves about the terrible passes or shots on goal. A fun afternoon, which we ended in the fan bar afterwards. A really cool pub. But we only needed one beer, as some creepy characters, the Barra (Ultras), were hanging out there.
Another successful day that we ended at the hostel.
Sunday afternoon - football is simply part of it 😉
What sets Valpo apart are its Ascensores. These are elevators that transport people from the lower part of the city to the upper part. There are 42 Cerros - 42 hills in the city, which is why biking is not really popular here.
Of course, the elevators are also colorful and, if they are still in operation, look artistic!
Unfortunately, during my numerous city tours, I was unable to take a ride! Somehow, I always headed for the wrong, decommissioned Ascensores.
Less beautiful were the side streets littered with garbage. Torn garbage bags with their contents lying around and rotting. The reason for this was the striking garbage collectors! Only the main streets were cleared.
What I missed was a swim in the Pacific Ocean. Although the sun was mostly shining, the temperatures of 20-22 degrees were not enough for me.
Actually, I wanted to visit Vina del Mar. The city is located about 15 km north and is the complete opposite of Valparaiso. Hotel chains, clean streets, and numerous wealthy people are found there. Also, the nicer beaches.
In any case, the city is well suited for a trip there. 1-2 nights is enough for Valparaiso, but if you also want to visit Vina del Mar, 3-4 nights would be perfect.
For 3000 Chilean pesos (1 € = 720 CLP), I took a bus to the capital of Chile. Santiago de Chile is probably the most 'European' and modern metropolis in South America and has approximately 6.5 million inhabitants.
The city definitely looks quite modern! Santiago is located at an altitude of 700 meters. Like Valparaiso, it has numerous hills from which you have a great view!
San Cristobal is a very popular hill in the Bellavista district because you can see the whole city from there! It is located at an altitude of 880 meters. It is a very religious place.
A 22-meter high statue of the Virgin Mary is located at the highest point of the Cerro.
There are several ways to get up there. Either you walk, which takes 1-2 hours, ride a bike, or choose the more comfortable option and take the elevator. This costs only 1000 CLP per way.
I chose a mix of both. Up with the elevator and down on foot.
You can watch the sunset perfectly from here! When the last elevator has left the hill, numerous locals arrive by bike or on foot.
Another good way to get a view of the city is the Gran Torre Santiago, the tallest building in South America at 300 meters! The top two floors, the 61st and 62nd floors, also known as Sky Costanera, serve as a 360° viewing platform. However, this is only from the inside.
The ascent costs 5000 CLP.
The city has many green spaces and parks where a lot of sports activities take place.
I decided to do one of the free walking tours again.
There were 2 options. One where you visit the 'normal' tourist attractions and one that includes an alternative program.
Since the historic buildings in the city are very close together and can be easily visited on your own, I chose the 2nd option!
In a smaller group of around 15 people, compared to Buenos Aires, we first visited the largest fish market, the 'Mercado Central'. The market is rather touristy, as visitors mostly eat in the numerous restaurants, but it was still interesting.
It got even more interesting right around the corner at the Market of Portenos - called 'La Chimba'. Here you can buy all sorts of things. Mostly fruits, vegetables, and meat.
Afterwards, as in Buenos Aires, we went to a cemetery - the Cementerio General. However, the difference to the capital of Argentina is that the cemetery is incredibly large (86 hectares) and over 2 million people have been buried here. Numerous former Chilean presidents have their own memorial here. In addition, there are huge mausoleums where people from different countries are buried. Spain and Italy, for example, have their own mausoleum.
Erich Honecker was also cremated here after his escape to Chile.
Many of the mausoleums, which look like buildings, have already collapsed, as Chile has a very high earthquake rate.
A very alternative walking tour, but still a lot of fun.
What should definitely not be missed before leaving Santiago! Right! Football!
Since not only in Europe there was an international break, but also in South America, Chile happened to play at home against Uruguay in the fiercely contested World Cup qualification on this Tuesday.
I had already ordered a ticket from my own couch several weeks ago. By chance, I met an Englishman named Grigg in Valparaiso who had also secured a ticket! However, he only got one for the away section.
We had 2-3 beers in the party district of Bellavista and then headed to the stadium together, where our paths separated.
The Estadio Nacional was completely red, except for the also sold-out guest block, which was dressed in light blue! 50,000 spectators.
The sun set behind a curve, which was very impressive as there is no roof in the stadium except for the main stand.
Everyone sang the Chilean anthem extremely loudly and with a lot of enthusiasm. After that, the mood was quite good, although not particularly exciting for international matches.
They didn't produce much more than their typical chant of 'Chi-chi-chi Le-Le-Le, viva Chile'. Still quite okay.
However, the game had a lot to offer. Uruguay started with a fireworks display and relentlessly attacked the Chilean goal guarded by Claudio Bravo. Cavani scored the deserved lead and then unfairly did not receive a penalty.
After that, for some reason, they completely lost track. Alexis Sanchez practically single-handedly wiped out the Uruguayans! Chile won 3-1!
Arturo Vidal played only a minor role and had to come off after 60 minutes.
After the game, I made my way back to the hostel alone, as Andrew had to endure a blockade in the away section.
It was time to go to bed early, as the next day I was heading to San Pedro de Atacama in northern Chile. From there, a 3-day tour started to Bolivia to visit the largest salt flat in the world, the Salar de Uyuni.