7.1.2018: The last missing Great Walk

Today I continue heading north into unknown territory - I have been looking forward to this for a long time. Following the recommendation of my English guidebook, I will start with the Charming Creek Walkway.

Originally, it is 10 km long, but only the first 4 km are said to be really exciting. The track follows a historic railway line with split and twisted rails through the forest. Along the way, you pass various equipment used by the miners, such as partially decayed mine carts, as well as the Mangatini Falls. The trail also goes through tunnels, eventually ending at the ruins of Watson's Mill (at least for me). From there, I turn around and walk back to the car. The Charming Creek Railway is indeed charming, but I liked Denniston a bit better.

Then it continues on a partially dizzying road to Karamea, which seems to consist only of a shop, a few houses, and a tavern. At first, I am appalled by the small kitchen with just two burners and the mini refrigerator that barely reaches my knee. How are three backpackers supposed to fit all their stuff in here? On top of that, there is only one shower and two toilets for everyone. But it turns out that I am the only one in the backpackers; the other visitors have all rented motel units, which probably have their own kitchens and bathrooms.

Since the afternoon is still young, I decide to jump ahead in the itinerary and do the Heaphy Track hike today. I don't really have much energy (after all, I have already walked 8 km), but I don't want to just sit around in the accommodation for the rest of the day.

In Karamea, the highway ends, but a narrow road continues for another 15 km to a parking and camping area, where the Heaphy Track, one of the 9 Great Walks, begins. It is the last one that I have not yet conquered. I have completed three Great Walks and hiked at least a few kilometers on all the others. For the Heaphy Track, I have chosen the most beautiful stage. It passes by two lovely viewpoints and ends at Scotts Beach, which unfortunately is infested with sandflies. In my opinion, the beach itself is one of the most beautiful on the West Coast and there is not a soul in sight except for one couple. The sparkling blue water is enticing for a swim, but you should not give in to temptation, as a warning sign strongly advises against it due to strong currents and dangerous surf.

On the way back, a small footpath branches off to the Nikau Walk, which, as the name suggests, leads through a grove of Nikau palms and eventually meets the starting point of the Heaphy Track again. I love Nikau palms. They instantly evoke a summer vacation feeling.

And because I haven't walked enough today, I also add the Zig Zag Track, which is advertised as just a 2-minute one-way hike. It leads to a small hill and offers great views of Kohaihai Beach, the brown Kohaihai River, and the swing bridge that crosses over it into the rainforest.

But now I have really walked enough for today - it was about 16 km and I can slowly feel it in my legs. While preparing dinner, I strike up a conversation with a Swiss couple and am grateful to not spend the evening alone.