2024 - March - Palermo

The fact that the Mafia is part of Italy and Sicily in particular is firmly anchored in the minds of most of us. Some of the stories about it even have a gruesomely beautiful image. But the truth was and is not romantic at all, but rather bloody. In Palermo's old town, the Mafia battles led, among other things, to a lot of empty properties and extreme decay.

We realized how happy many residents are that the Mafia was cracked down on in the early 1980s when we discovered the memorial/tombstone for Judge Falcone in the Basilica of San Domenico. The lawyer is considered a symbol of the fight against the Mafia and was murdered by them in 1992, despite extensive personal protection. Up until that point, however, he had already investigated around 400 Mafia members as the chief investigating judge and put them behind bars.

In his memory, his remains were reburied in the Basilica of San Domenico in 2015. When we visited, there were countless (!) handwritten notes and letters next to his gravestone, including the inscription "No Mafia".

Now, one can assume that the mafia is far from dead, but it has been significantly decimated and Palermo has now blossomed again. Many houses have been spruced up and shops have reopened. Nevertheless, the morbid charm still exists in many places. Renovated houses alternate with weathered facades. Amateur photographers like me can really let off steam here.

Especially in spring, when temperatures in Sicily are already pleasant, the city is definitely worth a visit.

The interesting cityscape is complemented by botanical features such as the largest rubber trees in Europe with countless aerial roots. You can find them both in the Botanical Garden (admission costs) and in the public Giordano Garibaldi.

By the way, I liked the free parks, which include the "Villa Giulia" complex, better than the Botanical Garden itself. For me, it was simply too overgrown (for the price you pay).

You should definitely take a walk to the Cathedral of Maria Santissima Assunta, the most important church in Palermo. The complex is magnificent from the outside and even more impressive once you climb to the roof for a few euros. The roof structures are great and of course the view is fantastic!

And how about a bit of culture? I can recommend the Teatro Massimo, Italy's largest opera house. You will certainly be impressed by its historicist architecture and can be visited as part of a guided tour. The second opera house, the Teatro Politeama Garibaldi, is said to be just as beautiful, but we didn't manage to visit it.

But we did go to the Mercato del Capo, a large food market. I can definitely recommend a visit. You could call it a tourist trap, because people like us are often asked for fantasy prices, but you can get something really extraordinary here.

I also found the grill stations around the beach particularly special. They are right on the road and can be accessed by guests of the beach meadows as well as by moped and car drivers. Here you can usually get grilled bacon on a skewer, which I of course also tried.

Have I forgotten anything important in my report on Palermo? Absolutely. So, in closing, two notes to myself for my next stay:

1. Book the same accommodation again on your next visit. It was really nice here (Delle Vittorie Luxury Rooms&Suites, Via Bari 52, 90133 Palermo).

2. Be sure to allow more time for the many other sights!