Etappe 26: From Karpen to Orikum

Today we set off early to make up for the short stage from yesterday. Since there were severe storms with strong gusts of wind predicted for southern Albania the following day, I wanted to reach Orikum and take a rest day there. We traveled mostly flat on the main road through Kavaja, Lushnja, and Fier, so I arrived in the popular port city of Vlora in the early afternoon. There, at least, I had a late lunch on the beach, but I could have easily stayed for a day! Regardless, it was the right decision to continue to the small coastal town of Orikum. My hosts Genti, his wife, and his son welcomed me very warmly. Once again, I was the only guest in their hotel and fish restaurant. With very broken English and two shots of schnapps (cheers is apparently called Gsur here), the conversation went somewhat smoothly. There was a Turkish soap opera with Albanian subtitles on TV, which I enjoyed! For dinner, we had freshly caught fish, as anything else would have probably been seen as an insult to Genti.

The next day was actually rainy, very windy, and ideal for relaxing. I hadn't been feeling 100% fit for a few days, so I spent most of the day in the room. I managed to make two short trips into town to write postcards, though. In the evening, I had a salad and a shot of schnapps with Genti at his restaurant. When it came time to pay for the accommodation, I explained to him that I wanted to leave early the next morning to have enough time for the pass. He responded by saying that he would knock on my door around 6 to say goodbye, or at least that's how I interpreted it. The next morning, he actually knocked on my door at 6, but with a second fishing outfit. Instead of an early start or breakfast, we spent two hours fishing in the bay of Vlora, with a balanced catch of fish, shrimp, octopus, and even two cuttlefish. Afterward, the three of us had a leisurely breakfast, and other fishermen joined us later, learning about my travel plans with Genti as the translator. All in all, it was a very nice misunderstanding that led to a unique experience, and I'm very glad I didn't start toward the pass until late!