Publisert: 10.05.2022
Saturday morning on the vineyard, enjoying the tranquility - no work, no tractors, and no workers. After a quick breakfast, we set off with the goal of Soulac sur mer. The town marks the end of the sandy beaches on the Atlantic coast of the Medoc Peninsula. A different landscape awaits us beyond the Gironde estuary.
But before that, we have an appointment at Chateau Carmenere. We drive onto the property and are greeted with a smile and a questioning look by the hostess. The winery is not located on the main road and does not have a grand entrance. Those who drive onto the property intend to be here. Hence, the question marks in her eyes.
I explain where we come from and that we already know the wine from our home in Bremen - aha, 'Heiner Lobenberg' she exclaims and immediately takes out the thick book of wines, in which her Chateau is mentioned as well.
We receive a tour of the wine cellars and bottling facilities, explanations about the pressing method and the careful cultivation of the vineyards.
The Carmenere grape practically disappeared from the region due to the phylloxera catastrophe in the 19th century. However, Carmenere is one of the 6 grape varieties allowed for Bordeaux wines. Strict rules govern the classification as Bordeaux wine. The owner's son took the step of replanting Carmenere and blending it into their red wines. We were able to taste the result during a wine tasting at noon, and our initial impression was confirmed. A case quickly found its place in the last available corner of the garage.
Feeling uplifted, we continue our journey to Soulac, where there is a parking spot outside the town. On the way there, it becomes apparent that the roads here are generously sized and lead us smoothly through the area. The coastline is the furthest point of the fine sandy beaches that stretch from Biarritz on the Spanish border to the Dune of Arcachon. The flat landscape and pine forests are classified as a nature reserve and offer infinite opportunities for walks in the forest and sunbathing on the dunes.
The parking spot is located outside the town in front of a campsite. It doesn't have electricity or toilets, but it is perfectly situated right by the dunes. It's less than 50 meters from the motorhome, and we are standing on the edge of the dunes overlooking the Atlantic. Amazing.
Soulac itself is a nice small seaside resort with a beautiful beach in the town center.
A promenade that is currently being expanded and a small pedestrian zone with boutiques, restaurants, and cafes invite you to relax. Of course, a beer at 4 o'clock is a must...
By the way, the bucket costs €6.50 - that's the price level in France.
Soulac has a unique feature that we haven't seen anywhere else before. There are many well-preserved houses from the Art Nouveau period of the 19th century. At that time, Soulac developed into a popular seaside resort on the North-Aquitaine coast.
In the evening, we plan our next destination again. The ferry across the Gironde saves us the detour via Bordeaux - and I have declared that it always goes forward. So we take the ferry to the other side and then drive about 100 km further north. The journey home is becoming more tangible now. The last week begins and is supposed to bring us some relaxation as the weather is expected to remain fantastic.
The next morning, we take our time and enjoy the sea once again. The ferry at 12 o'clock should be ours, and the ferry terminal in Le Verdon sur mer is only 10 km away.
We set off for our last exit... Soulac/Verdon. I'm a little nervous, to be honest. I haven't driven the Laika onto a ferry before. Will its size be accepted? Are there any height and weight restrictions? Is the ferry not a dodgy one? All worries disappear when we arrive at the terminal. There are already other motorhomes in line, the terminal is modern and trustworthy, everything is relaxed. Nothing will go wrong.
Entering the ferry reminds me a bit of our trips to the Greek islands in the 80s, when we used to take the ferries with our motorcycles.
Those were dodgy vessels, but there was no reason to worry about the Gironde ferry for the 30-minute crossing (€54).
We quickly reach the other side and take the country road towards Les Sables d'olonne, a seaside resort in the Pays de la Loire region.
I will report on that soon...