Valparaiso & Viña del Mar

From Santiago, I set off on a three-day trip to the Pacific coast to visit the cities of Valparaiso and Viña del Mar. On the way to the bus station heading towards Valparaiso, I wanted to buy a local loading card for using the metro but I didn’t have any cash on me. The lady at the counter pointed out that only cash payments were possible and just as I was about to leave disappointed, an older gentleman tapped me on the shoulder and handed me his metro card. I initially didn’t want to accept it, but the older gentleman insisted, and I thanked him very warmly – what a wonderful encounter!

The bus from Santiago to the Pacific coast takes about an hour and a half, and upon entering the quite hilly landscape surrounding the two towns, one can clearly see the extent of the devastating wildfires from February of this year, which claimed over a hundred lives and turned the region into a true hell of fire. Everywhere there is burned earth, bare black tree stumps, and remnants of buildings. It is now well known that the perpetrators of this inferno were firefighters who are paid by performance and, as a form of job creation measure, set the fires which then spiraled completely out of control during the Chilean summer. These gentlemen are currently being prosecuted for this madness. A weak consolation when considering the extent of this catastrophe.

Stepping off the bus in Valparaiso, one is immediately immersed in a bustling chaos that grips the entire port city. Loud, colorful, wild, with an unbelievable number of people on the streets, and you can't help but stare. Everywhere there is some kind of spectacle going on, and someone is always up to something special. What a contrast to Santiago.

The hostel in Valparaiso is located in an old colonial house right in the city and is run by Daniela, an incredibly nice woman from the region. A brief introduction from Daniela about the main sights of the city and how to reach them on foot, and off I went into the colorful hustle and bustle. The hostel was a very pleasant place to detach oneself from the surrounding chaos of the city. Here I also met Jolan from Brussels, who is traveling in South America by bicycle and whom I was to meet again later in Santiago. A super relaxed guy, with whom I immediately clicked and who certainly contributed a lot to the overall experience of Valparaiso.

The city itself stretches across a multitude of hills, the so-called Cerros, the most famous of which are Cerro Alegre and Cerro Concepción, both of which I planned to visit. The historic city center was declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2003. On the way up and down the hills, the numerous funiculars stand out, which allow you to cover the elevation changes effortlessly for a small fee. The funiculars are quite antique and are considered historical monuments. During the short ride, you feel transported back in time, and the clattering of the machinery reminds you of the wear and tear visible everywhere around here. A total of 16 of the former 30 elevators are still in operation and have been declared industrial monuments.

The tour over the Cerros is truly fascinating, and somehow you have your eyes everywhere. A thousand different colors and buildings in all possible styles create the impression of absolute architectural chaos. Essentially, you don't really know where to go first, as it feels like a new spectacle and visual confusion unfolds in every alley. It all feels like a gigantic open-air gallery where everyone can leave their mark in some form. Many of the buildings are also heavily dilapidated and in general, everything is somewhat covered in paint, weathering, and patina. Everything is colorfully smeared, stickered, and much of it looks like it was thrown together haphazardly. Among all this madness, incredibly beautiful and well-kept buildings frequently appear. A bizarre contrast, and even though it all doesn't seem to fit together somehow, one still feels that it has to be this way and that each of these structures belongs exactly in its designated spot, whether beautifully preserved colonial building or abandoned industrial ruins. I truly haven't seen anything like this anywhere before, and the question of whether this is art or should be removed is definitely warranted here. Interesting for sure and quite aged. In any case, the city offers a multitude of photographic motifs; at every corner, there is some architectural curiosity to admire, or a smear, some artwork or installation. It all appears like a completely chaotic and rundown work of art. And even though opinions may differ on evaluating this place, I liked it. Beautiful is not necessarily the right word; interesting fits quite well. I cannot recall a place that resembles Valparaiso in any form. Perhaps it’s like a mix of Lisbon and Genoa but dipped in thousands of colors and far past the peak of youth. But even that comparison falters; it is hard to categorize this whole place in any way. Wild views and insights from the Cerros in all directions for sure. Hummingbirds are busy with the nectar from the flowers, wild electrical installations run through the alleys, and a density of dog poop never experienced anywhere else makes the walk up and down through the old town a real obstacle course. At sunset then down to the harbor and during the walk through the rather narrow streets, I noticed all sorts of curious characters. This is indeed a hot spot, at least that’s my feeling looking behind the scenes. One is scrutinized here quite attentively; it is also hard not to stand out as a tourist, as there are just too many curiosities to discover here. The next day I walked along the beach in the other direction and again got the sense that the city has already seen its better days in purely optical terms. The stretch to Viña del Mar is quite dirty; the beach houses are dilapidated or heavily weathered. The density of shady characters is high. So keep your eyes open, but you already noticed that upon arrival and minimized the risk of falling for any nonsense.

A short detour to the neighboring city of Viña del Mar, which is directly adjacent to Valparaiso, was also made. There a somewhat different picture. Viña del Mar looks much tidier, cleaner, and more modern, although a bit more monotonous and less interesting. Here there are also the nicer beaches, and the majority of people coming to this region for relaxation likely choose Viña del Mar as their destination.

All in all, quite interesting and wild days at the Pacific. I liked it, and I found it quite exciting and varied, but I can also understand if people say that this place is too messed up and too much. The truth probably lies somewhere in between.