Day 21 Milford Sound

Today is the big day. We're heading to Milford Sound. Initially, it was more of a "must do" for me rather than a "must-see". But now I'm really looking forward to it. The over 120 km long route has no gas stations or any other facilities. That's why the VW van is being refueled and topped up with another liter of oil. The alarm clock goes off at 6:30 a.m. The first part of the route could also lead through the Allgäu region, but then a large wide valley opens up and the road becomes narrower and curvier, more rainforest. There is very little traffic. Making good progress at over 100 km/h and tucking in behind a local Mercedes minibus. Later on, the speed decreases to only 60 to 70 km/h. I am fully focused because this is the most dangerous road in New Zealand! Or as the captain on the boat will later say: "Drive safe and slow. On this road, you can see very individual driving styles."

The path to the boat dock is quite spectacular. A steep mountain road leads to the highest point, the Homer Tunnel. A simple tunnel with traffic lights and no proper road surface, only driveable at a maximum of 30 km/h. The road itself is already an experience!

The sun is shining in Milford Sound for the first time today. It rained for thirty consecutive days before that!!! The captain greets us with "you are very lucky guys". He's a really funny guy, I'm standing up next to the bridge and suddenly the door opens and he talks to me for a long time. The boat tour itself is amazing. We're accompanied most of the time by at least 20 dolphins, which come very close to the boat and even swim in the bow wave. The speed is impressive. We go under waterfalls, by the way, you get pretty wet doing that, and watch the sea lions do nothing.

At noon, we then return to some small walks along the route. Waterfalls, mirror lakes, rainforest, and the recommended mountain hike.

The parking lot is completely crowded and even Chinese tourists in sneakers start walking. We go through the rainforest and I get a few sandfly bites, despite protection. The route is super boring and the promised great view is rather tedious, say a few Bavarians who are coming towards me. So I go a little further and then turn around. Anyway, I only took half of the specified time, one and a half hours is not a mountain hike for me. But due to the snowfall of the last few days, some parts are closed or blocked for other reasons. But the light at the end of the tunnel comes a few kilometers further.

The breathtaking, very wide valley is bathed in the 25-degree warm afternoon sun. I stop and enjoy the atmosphere. The road is hardly used now. A car passes by every five or ten minutes.

After that, I drive about 70 km further to Lake Manapouri. Behind it lies Doubtful Sound, which also offers tours. But I will probably skip that. I've seen enough fjords. And today was already a real dream day that can't be topped. I decide on a bizarre-looking campground with a view over the lake. The place is run by an older lady who has also lived in Germany. We talk for a long time and she shows me some of her collectibles, vintage cars, and more. The campground also has a few houses and huts, representing various styles from the Black Forest to Canadian fishing cabins. Really cool! I'm still sitting in the evening sun at the picnic table. The area is 10 hectares large and has a beautiful view of the lake.

At 1 a.m., I get up again to observe the starry sky. It is clear, just like I have only seen it before in the Atacama Desert in Chile. There is no human light at the campground or in the village, it is pitch dark. I take some great photos, but then the cold of the night drives me back to bed. A long, fantastic, and exhausting day comes to an end. I need to process the countless impressions of today.