On the trail of Escobar

The seaside paradise in Capurganá just didn't want to let me go, so my stay in Medellin turned out to be shorter than planned. But in 4 days of power sightseeing, I saw everything I wanted to see.

Medellin is the second largest city in Colombia with nearly 4 million inhabitants and is characterized by a turbulent past. Between 1980 and 1990, Medellin was one of the most dangerous cities in the world due to high crime rates, kidnappings, gang wars, bombings, and drug trafficking.

In recent years, the city has undergone significant transformation. Today, guided tours are offered in the once most dangerous neighborhood "Communa 13", tourists can stroll through the city without any problems, children play in the streets, and families go about their everyday lives without worries. With its perpetual spring-like climate, numerous restaurants, vibrant nightlife, and elegant neighborhoods, it is easy to feel very comfortable here.

But it wasn't always like this. When Pablo Escobar ruled the city during its darkest time with his drug trafficking, murder and death were the order of the day. During a guided tour by a former bodyguard of Escobar named Heyne, we learned a lot about the drug lord, the time back then, and his life. Heyne told us a lot about Pablo as a person, as a boss, and as a father. At the same time, we also visited the most famous sites such as the prison Escobar built for himself, his house, and his current grave.

It was very interesting to hear Heyne's perspective on his former life. With a salary of $80,000 per week, he lived in luxury and decadence as one of Escobar's 3,000 bodyguards. He "wasted" all his money on parties, drugs, and women, so today he lives in almost poverty with his newly formed family. And yet, he explained to us, he is much happier today than 25 years ago. Even though he could afford the most expensive restaurants and the most beautiful apartments, he always lived in fear, always felt pursued, and couldn't even enjoy the best food in peace. That's why he couldn't help but repeatedly tell me during the tour, wagging his finger: "Don't marry a mafia boss!"

The tour was one of the most interesting tours I have done in all of South America. But of course, I also enjoyed the other tours in Medellin: one day we took an old van to Guatapé as a day trip, a beautiful village with a famous rock - from the top of which you have a breathtaking view.

I also took part in a free walking tour of "Communa 13" and marveled at how the once most dangerous neighborhood now shines with colors, graffiti, and galleries. In the city center "Downtown," I also took part in a tour and learned a lot about the life of Colombians and their happiness. Another highlight was attending a football match between Medellin's best team "National" (ranked 1st) and the fourth-ranked team.

The city center:

Communa 13:

At the football match Atlético Nacional vs. Huila:

My hostel was not only conveniently located but also one of the best on my entire trip. Not only was the owner, Günther (born and raised in Winnenden), delighted to welcome another Swabian to his house, but the other backpackers were also very friendly. And once again, I met numerous Germans - you wouldn't believe how many Germans travel through Colombia!