Mountain world in the south of Tawusch

After our rest day, we start the upcoming day of hiking on Tuesday (November 6, 2018) well-rested. Around eleven, we leave the Art Guesthouse in Dilijan and begin our ascent into the northern mountain world. In the reception of the guesthouse, there were pictures of some excursion destinations in the area. Inspired by them, I planned my hiking route for the next few days. For Tuesday, that means ascending again to about 2000 m. The weather is increasingly sunnier than predicted, and the hiking trail leads me through a varied landscape. Fields, rocks, meadows, and forests alternate on the surrounding mountain slopes, and small mountain streams find their way into the valley in between. We rarely pass isolated farms until we finally reach the Haghartsin Monastery after a good 3 hours and 12 kilometers. The remote medieval monastery is in good condition and offers infrastructure for larger crowds of visitors. However, at this time of year, the rush is limited, so I can't find a hot drink. After half an hour, we set off again. It's about 5 km to the next village, Teghut. We hike along a small country road until we reach about 1100 m, downhill. Once again, we have to deal with a large, aggressive dog at a checkpoint, but I can keep it at a distance with my hiking pole. Just after four o'clock, we have the opportunity for a coffee at the outskirts of Teghut. After a short break, I find a place for our overnight camp, not far from there.

On Wednesday morning, we have a visitor at the tent. The supposed owner of the property wants money. I consider the demanded 3000 AMD inappropriate, which I make clear to him. The man leaves but announces his return. I decide to leave as soon as possible, and an apple and some gingerbread are enough for breakfast. So we start the day of hiking already around ten o'clock. For the first two and a half hours, we walk along a small forest road that leads us to Parz Lich, a forest lake at an altitude of about 1500 m, after almost 10 km. Surprisingly, there is a restaurant open, and I can warm myself up with two cups of coffee by the wood stove. Just after one o'clock, we continue hiking. We follow small forest paths to Gosh. For a part of the route, I can follow the markings of the Trans-Caucasian Trail, which is quite pleasant, as I don't have to consult my map app at every fork in the road. By three o'clock, we have arrived in the mountain village at the local monastery. Rango can watch over our belongings while I visit Goshavank. Another monastery complex worth seeing. In the village, there are some souvenir shops and cafes, as well as a small market where I can replenish our food supplies for the next two days. To get to our next destination, Lake Sevan, we have to cross the mountains again. So I set off fully loaded to find a suitable camping spot and find one not far from the mountain village.

After our usual routine on Thursday morning, November 8, 2018, and the tent almost drying out, we start the ascent into the mountains around eleven o'clock. For the first 30 minutes, we can follow a forest path. Then we cross a small mountain stream, and the path disappears. So for the next 2 hours, we struggle up a steep slope, partly along a watercourse. The fog still hangs in the mountains, and the uncertainty about whether the hiking trail will reappear is wearing me down. Around half past twelve, it slowly clears up, and the supposed mountain ridge comes into view. Once at the top, we find the lost path, the sun is shining, and there is a beautiful view of the surrounding valleys and mountains. A moment that feels like happiness! In the past almost 150 minutes, we have only covered 3 km but had to fight our way up over 700 meters in altitude. The ascent takes its toll, and I am exhausted and need a short break. Afterwards, we continue along the mountain ridges. Until half past four, we cover another 9 km, and I set up the tent at an altitude of about 2200 m near some alpine huts in the afternoon sun. Since sunny weather is predicted for the next few days as well, I wash my hiking clothes in a trough and retreat to the warming sleeping bag with the sunset.