ꯐꯣꯉꯈ꯭ꯔꯦ꯫: 18.02.2019
Hello dear ones,
There is a lot to tell. ;) I better start with yesterday and tell you about our journey to Nanu Oya.
As I said, we had to treat ourselves to a private driver because there were no train tickets available in Kandy anymore.
In retrospect, that was definitely the best choice. It's really comfortable when you can get into the car right after breakfast and don't have to struggle with the tuk-tuk and heavy luggage through the crowds towards the train or bus. Our driver (whose name we unfortunately forgot) was great. Super nice and very talkative after a bit of defrosting. He told us a lot about his country, the history, and the many beautiful places we passed on our way. We always stopped at the highlights and had some time alone. Our journey took us through the tea and mountain country. We climbed a waterfall, visited a tea factory, and saw incredibly beautiful landscapes. It had something of the Alps, but somehow completely different. Serpentine roads led us up to the peaks and steep, narrow main roads led us back down. There were small corrugated iron huts along the roadside where the local farmers sold their vegetables. Everywhere you could see tea plantations, small vegetable fields, or flower beds. The greenery all around cannot be described, you have to see it for yourself. But that applies to so many things here. Even if we occasionally manage to take a good photo, it does not do justice to what you actually see here.
Just before Nanu Oya, our place of accommodation, we drove through Nuwara Eliya. A small town in the highlands, created by homesick and tropical-weary Brits. Out of nowhere, there was suddenly a golf course, Victorian-style buildings, a racecourse, and again masses of people and roaring traffic. Totally crazy and not understandable at first, as we had just come from nowhere.
At first, we were happy when we left Nuwara Eliya and hoped to find an oasis of calm in the next village (Nanu Oya). After all, according to our research, there were only a handful of accommodation options, a small train station, and lots of nature around.
In principle, it was more or less like that. Because Nanu Oya is kind of a suburb of Nuwara Eliya and mainly inhabited by the poorer workers and locals. The first impression reminded us of Brazilian favelas as we drove towards the accommodation by car. Granted, it was a little shock. But an overnight stay for 17€ including breakfast is not a luxury segment here either.
After taking a deep breath once and the friendly host showed us the room, we went out again to mingle with the locals. That worked out quite well. When you take off the European glasses and embrace the local conditions, everything doesn't look so bad anymore. Last but not least, the incredibly friendly and open-minded nature of the Sinhalese always helps to overcome fears and sensitivities and to feel comfortable and welcome.
The rest of the day was mainly characterized by eating, resting, and a great conversation with another guest. Cabi, a Swiss with Tamil and Sinhalese roots. Incredibly nice and somehow looking for his origin and identity. It was also fascinating because there is still an ongoing conflict between the Sinhalese and the Sinhalese Tamils here, even though the war was many years ago and almost all memories of it have been erased. We talked a lot about origins, family, tolerance, and perfume. Because Cabi loves good perfume, which was a perfect topic for Sina.
This morning we got up at seven o'clock hoping that if we were early enough at the train station, we would definitely get a seat in the 1st or 2nd class of the train. Of course, it didn't turn out that way. Our fate was to travel in the 3rd class. And then also with the morning train, which, due to its additional transport carriages, travels much longer than the other trains later in the day. By much longer, I mean a total travel time of about four and a half hours. And all standing!! and squeezed together with other tourists, local families, and daily commuters. The supposedly most beautiful train journey in the world turned into a little disaster and an exhausting, never-ending trip into the unknown.
We were so relieved when we finally arrived in Ella that we treated ourselves to a cola and a cigarette. When all the other tourists were gone, we also took a tuk-tuk and went to our accommodation for the next three days.
Well, what can I say... It seems that our karma bank account has been replenished. I think we are in one of the most beautiful places in the world and we also have the most beautiful view in the world right from our bed.
Even though we now have to recharge our energy for a while, we have done everything right so far. The country is fascinating every day, the people are indescribably kind and hospitable, the food tastes great, and even the weather has been on our side so far. We think it's going well.. ;)
Enjoy the pictures. Tomorrow we will go on our first longer hike to Little Adams Peak and the Nine Arches Bridge. We are really excited.
See you soon and big hug, Sina and Matti