Gnarly wave, dude!

When you grow up by the sea, you have a completely different understanding of the weather, the wind, the water. But especially the waves. You have to painfully realize this when you decide to learn to surf at the age of 41 as an alpine being. There are many missing basics! But no drama, we have one year to go!

Learning to surf initially means having a lot of saltwater in your stomach and all your sinuses. Our Trigg Beach is the absolute beginner's paradise: shallow, crystal clear water, soft sand, usually not too much current. If the swell isn't too high and side- and backwash don't bother, there's nothing standing in the way of catching green waves. Yes, just like in any other sport, the surf scene has its own vocabulary, and we're slowly trying to understand the difference between wave, swell, and surf.

Sofia in Action

Once you can talk a little cool, the next difficulty arises: understanding the Australian surf instructor! The aim is to catch the green waves, which are still unbroken. If it sounds more gray than green ('greyn waves'), it can be confusing. Or when you're never sure if the teacher shouted 'go' or 'no': take the wave or not? You'll know for sure in the so-called washing machine, when the wave spins you underwater, that it was probably 'no'...

What I find absolutely fascinating is the variety of people enjoying the sea: tanned surf pros with long blond hair, old gnarly men in kayaks, tons of school children trying their hand at life-saving in the Surf Live Saving Clubs... People of all ages from young to old! We recently saw three ladies, all estimated to be over 80, marching with their bodyboards to the beach. Awesome! I want to be that cool at that age too! And then I want to shout: Gnarly wave, dude! ('Echt arge Welle, Oida!')

Dry training in the living room